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wind flex on bigger props help | 25 comments (25 topical)
Re: wind flex on bigger props help (3.00 / 0) (#3)
by phil b on Sat Oct 29, 2005 at 09:26:12 AM MST

I think you will have better performance if you get your prop higher above the building. You need 'clean' air without the turbulence.
Straight grained wood is best for props. No doubt. In my area, I could not find any without paying a high price. I have been using birch plywood for my blades. After breaking 2 sets in strong winds, I am now covering the plywood in 3 layers of fiberglass on each side. Without the fiberglass, this is what happened: http://www.otherpower.com/images/scimages1110100_0036.JPG
They are very strong and seem to work well.



wood cored fiberglass (3.00 / 0) (#4)
by wdyasq on Sat Oct 29, 2005 at 10:10:30 AM MST

Phil,

Once the glass is applied the blades become a cored fiberglass structure.  Strip-plank canoes are a very common example of the structure.  

If one wants to get really techinical the proper way would be to cut the ply in 45 degree diagional strips and laminate where the end grains shown were on the face and back of the blade.  The blade would then be given layers of 'S-Glass' or maybe carbon fiber.

Contrary to the thought of blades needing to be 'thin' to go fast, the tips are flying at close to 100 mph.  Those speeds are considered very low in aircraft and aerodynamic terms.  As the wind speed goes up there is more than enough power to overcome the small drag increase of a 'fat' airfoil. If one care to challange this thought they should look at some data first and show me where to find it.  

IntegEner's post reminded me of some aerodynamic principles that were laid to rest when Monoplanes took over the airplane industry. I will probably do some drawings and models of these thoughts - and may even test them before I claim the hole-y grail of blade design.

Ron
Adventure is just bad planning." -- Roald Amundsen
[ Parent ]



wind flex on bigger props help | 25 comments (25 topical)

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