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wind flex on bigger props help | 25 comments (25 topical)
Re: wind flex on bigger props help (3.00 / 0) (#5)
by Experimental on Sat Oct 29, 2005 at 12:16:45 PM MST

     Hi Adelaide,
     If your blades are the Hugh Piggeot design, the easiest way of takeing flex out of the blades, is to permanitely glue the blades together, at the prop hub,with the plywood plates !!
    I have done this, and it makes a big difference -- and going even further, I make my blades, from several laminations, insted of one thick board -- this makes them , extremely stiff !!   (look at my post on the blades I made a while back)
    The biggest problem with glueing them together, and to the plywood plates is, you can,t replace, just one blade !!
    Another thing that helps is to put an aluminum or steel round plate, under the bolts, holding your blades to the generator, and check the bolts often, as the wood blades, shrink and swell, with the changing weather !!
    Also, check the balance, but it sounds like you will really need to go to the laminated blades -- hope this is helpful..  Bill H...



Re: wind flex on bigger props help (3.00 / 0) (#6)
by adelaide on Sat Oct 29, 2005 at 06:58:26 PM MST

thank u for some advice still bit unshore about lamanated wood thow ? i have very strong hub aria glued to ply circle with wedj inbetween each then screws from ply to blade then washer on screws from f/p hub all way threw blades and ply (f/p hub cos easy off on/and some times have 2 f/p alts on each front and back).this 1 wired 100 series delta good for only 200w 12v (ushaly 2 alts on this 1)but makes power from 100rpm and furls early ,is my lo wind power experament works 2 x better than outhers in lo wind ,outhers give me over 111amps (around 1500w)in hi wind all close to factory roof cos im close to city. will send pic (roof cam)it most have plastic inner bits bent after ovened. pole is 2inch and bottom is heavy lath rail which i still cant belive flexes when the resont wobble sets in ,gyde wire from center pol in middle prop help but not good enuf ,could it be cos say top gets more air flow /1 blade has more lift??.sort of looks like 3/4 way may flex or all prop blades follow woble ?,outher four next to it are perfect but 2.2 meters diameter av. sorry about spelling, wood is pine i think .can it be tail needs to be reenfoced so it cant flex as well? will prob try dif balancing random weight then move to see if helps and next one thicker,any enginear idears like gyro powed by it ?hahah<(like the power of big prop when outhers are still in lo wind)





[ Parent ]


Re: wind flex on bigger props help (3.00 / 0) (#7)
by whirlybird on Sat Oct 29, 2005 at 09:19:12 PM MST

Hi Adelaide.
I take it that is where you are as well,I am not to far from the CBD in Adelaide and would like to contact you re blades etc. I have an old f/p ready for conversion and a lot of other projects on the drawing board.
If you are interested you can contact me on the form provided at whirlwindaustralia.com.
cya mate.
whirlybird.
 

[ Parent ]



Re: wind flex on bigger props help (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by Experimental on Sun Oct 30, 2005 at 01:04:37 AM MST

   Hi Again Adelaide,
    Looks like you are getting a lot of turbulance, from many structures on the building -- that will cause lots of problems !!
    Other than that, I was once looking at the F&P conversions myself, and as I recall -- the shaft was very small in diameter, and the hub, made of plastic !!
   You could very possiably be getting a lot of "flex", in both the shaft, and hub-- along with long blades --- that would set up a lot of FLEX problems
   The lamanated blades, will definitely, take a lot of flex out ,but you still may have a problem with the shaft and hub !!
   The other fellow, that wrote you, sounds like he is near you, so perhaps he can help you -- I,m in the USA, so I can,t drop by, and take a look ( would love to though)
    I wish you good luck with your project -- and maybe it,s time to go to a dual rotor !!???   Bill H.........

[ Parent ]


lamination (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by wdyasq on Sun Oct 30, 2005 at 06:40:14 AM MST

Bill,

I don't care to start a war on this subject, just state a fact.  Lamination will NOT increase stifness by itself.

Lamination WILL alow one to avoid areas of 'bad' wood such as knots, compression grain and runout.  One can also orient the grain better.  Cutting a board into squares and orienting everything as close to vertical grain is an example of that.

In short, lamination alows one to use less desirable wood, orient grain direction better and use less expensive material. One can also build much larger chunks of material than mother nature provides through the lumber suppliers. It will not increase the stiffness of the material itself.

Several woodworkers and I were discussing lamination of aircraft main spars in aerobatic planes one day.  The subject of lamination came up. Jon Staudacher, who is fairly well known, made the observation, 'I never could get as good a joint as the original manufacturer'.

Ron
Adventure is just bad planning." -- Roald Amundsen
[ Parent ]



Re: lamination (3.00 / 0) (#14)
by Experimental on Sun Oct 30, 2005 at 11:21:24 AM MST

      I really have to disagree with you on that Ron -- Laminations are much stiffer, and if you look at any aircraft propeller of wood, you will see, many laminations..
     I had a formula 1 raceplane, and built many propellers for same -- the more lams, the stiffer the prop-- we also tried putting carbon fibre, between lams for the same reason ( when a prop bends, it changes the pitch) We tried using that fact, and tried to orient the carbon fibres, to change the pitch, when the prop bent !!
     Look at large buildings, with long spans -- those glue lams are made to support the weight, with out bending !!
     The spars in the race planes were three laminations of 1' thick spruce -- not because we could not get the lumber, but to take 9G+ loading !!
    Staudecher also used laminated spars, but as I recall, he used a boxed spar beam and cable struts -- can,t really recall, as I was into raceing, more than aerobatics --- BUT one thing I can state, with absolute certainty -- laminated props are much stiffer !!!
    NO offence intended Ron, but if you need further proof, just test it in your own shop !!   Bill H........

[ Parent ]


Re: lamination (3.00 / 0) (#15)
by wdyasq on Sun Oct 30, 2005 at 07:23:57 PM MST

Well Bill.

I guess you and I will have to disagree.  If so, the data I read from Gougeon Brothers is a lie.  I have tested it in my own shop.  I do laminate.  Laminates are more flexible. I am familiar with Simitar props and the twisting. In fact, Wittman used that to his advantage.

The aerobatic planes Jon Staudacher built had cantilever wings.  Like many small planes the tail surfaces were rod-in-tension braced.

I stated, 'Lamination will NOT increase stifness by itself.' I stand by that. In thin laminations the glue itself can lock the fibers and cause things to get more rigid.  I mentioned other things that casue lamiantions to be more acceptable. Wooden structures are quite complex.  I do not believe I will ever fully understand them.

I have seen a few interesting things in mixing Glass-strand or Carbon-fibre in epoxy and wood - and other substrates. There has been very litle published on fatigue of mixed composits (wood/modern-stuff).  

Wood and laminated wood are the superior materials for fatigue resistance. As a structual material, it is difficult to beat.

Ron

Adventure is just bad planning." -- Roald Amundsen
[ Parent ]



Re: lamination (3.00 / 0) (#16)
by Experimental on Sun Oct 30, 2005 at 09:05:16 PM MST

     Well HECK Ron,
     One thing I think we can sure agree on -- "West systems epoxy resin", by Gougen bros, is the best there is -- espically when used with 403 thickning agent!
    Other than that, we can cheerfully agree to disagree about the stiffness of laminated prop blanks, and I will read Gougeons 002-545  tech manual, again.
   Good evening to you, and all.. Bill H

[ Parent ]


Re: lamination (3.00 / 0) (#19)
by wdyasq on Mon Oct 31, 2005 at 05:52:42 AM MST

WEST system is a good epoxy.  I actually prefer some other brands for certain aplications.  I think there are only two actual manufacturers and what is consumed are 'formulations'.

Most boat fourmualtions of epoxy are good.  As I never had the luxury of a heated and cooled shop I drifted to System3 epoxy.  I have another friend who swears by MAS. I have used many gallons of WEST, which doesn't saturate wood even if the acronym claims that.

Adhesives are another thing 'taken for granted' by most woodworkers. In reality there is a lot of science and techinique to use them.  As I have gotten older I have tended to stick to adhesives I know and avoid research. I am going to try some 'Titebond 3' this week.  Always interesting to me one has to find the data sheets to find out temperature requirements and other critical data.

Ron
Adventure is just bad planning." -- Roald Amundsen
[ Parent ]



Re: lamination (3.00 / 0) (#25)
by Vtbsr on Mon Nov 07, 2005 at 08:40:27 PM MST

One other glue the board should look at is , Unibond 800. This is a step up from the west. I like the west for its gap filling ability but it is flexable. The Unibond is a stiffer glue. The unibond is a powder and resin mix. You have to keep the temps. up to get a overnight clamp time.  I would use the unibond for the blade lams. and the west for the blades into the hubs. Then i would use the west  to seal the blades completly from any moisture before painting. If the wood changes moisture content all the carving time may be lost by warping. You can get glue creep over time with the west or titbond where the glue can let the wood move slightly. Just my two cents on lamination.

[ Parent ]


wind flex on bigger props help | 25 comments (25 topical)

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