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Mongolian Yurt Style Structures | 36 comments (36 topical, editorial)
Re: Mongolian Yurt Style Structures (3.00 / 0) (#2)
by whatsnext on Sun Jul 10th, 2005 at 01:52:39 PM MST
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I'm very curious about something. How long should one last? Five years, twenty? Or is it more like a semi permanent camp? I love one room living so these would be nice if you weren't rebuilding them all the time.
Thanks, John.....



Re: Mongolian Yurt Style Structures (3.00 / 0) (#4)
by bob golding (photoman290 at yahoo dot com) on Sun Jul 10th, 2005 at 04:14:53 PM MST
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hi john,
 from what have read if you make the  frame out of oak it should last about 60 years. if you use canvas for the cover this will need replacing every 5 years. no figures on  other materials. these figures are for mongolian gers, the correct name for them. think yurt is a russian name for home. they move theirs about 4 times a year so if you dont move much they will last longer.

bob golding
 

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Re: Mongolian Yurt Style Structures (3.00 / 0) (#5)
by whatsnext on Sun Jul 10th, 2005 at 09:41:46 PM MST
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Bob, So is portability part of the appeal? And, if you were not planning on adopting the nomatic lifestle would you be better off with regular construction. A friend of mine had planned on a geodesic dome but is now looking at copying the RAL system.
John........

[ Parent ]


Re: Mongolian Yurt Style Structures (3.00 / 0) (#7)
by bob golding (photoman290 at yahoo dot com) on Mon Jul 11th, 2005 at 03:32:09 AM MST
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hi john,
 i think the main appeal is  the design. the mongolians have had around 2000 years to perfect it. although  they  designed it for  thier nomadic lifestyle there is no disadvantage in not  moving it. i have  worked with various domes from  10 feet to 60 foot, and  i dont see any great advantage ,but a lot of problems you dont get with a ger. these are mainly to do with the basic conscruction of the frame. lots of joints to  break or wear out, and thats after you have worked out the angles and made them in the first place.dont get me wrong i like domes but for the work involved i thing a ger is a better bet. smaller footprint as well,thanks to the vertical walls which also means its lowe, which  improves the wind resistance.

bob golding

[ Parent ]



Re: Mongolian Yurt Style Structures (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by BCborn (kylecarrington (@) hotmail.com) on Mon Jul 11th, 2005 at 05:57:02 PM MST
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I won't pretend to whitewash my reasons or reason for appeal. My appeal to this house design is that its is DIRT CHEAP, + it's effective. Not too mention it requires no building permits (non-conforming considered portable - no different than setting up a tent in your back yard).

There are lot of "hippy" appeals that apply more to Larry and Vicky my landlords who got me into this. To some they are very real, to others they are silly - to me they are interesting, but not essential. For example - when you live in a conventional home, you are segregating yourself from the earth - what I mean by that is, you are putting concrete slabs and such between you and the earth below. Many, many people, especially native respect Earth's energies. Modern homes, simply do not - they fight the earth and energies and block them. Not being a hippy myself, it really doesnt matter a whole bunch to me - but I will honestly say, I do get a damn get sleep in my Yurt, and have lived in long enough to honestly say there is at least something to it. It is about vibrational energies, both yours a human, and the earths. I'm not going to go into it deeper than that.

The tradeoff is working with shifting levels of humidity and temperature. Keep in mind my Yurt is actually not insulated, yet it functions in -30c! That is pretty bizarre, but it's possible due to radiant heat energy. That isn't to say when I come home the Yurt is stone cold, cause I dont have the heat on. My sun roof panels actually let in heat, the walls bounce it around and it is trapped. It takes about -10 to -15 before my Yurt is below freezing, with NO HEAT. Upon firing my small airtight stove it heats up very fast. Here in the property there folks that have actually snuck over from their conventional 2x6 insulated wood frame cabins, in -30 to sleep in the Yurts, cause they are warmer! That isnt to say we don't burn a lot of wood, but we live in the forest. Much can be done to amplifify a Yurts solar heating capabilites as well. Think of it this way, you stand inside the thing and its basically an inverted solar cook oven. Containing trapped heated via black water barrels filled with antifreeze, is one method I plan on employing so my Yurt is self heating in the winter, while Im NOT there to burn wood. There are many methods. I once saw a guy with a Yurt, and the whole based was skirted in panels, filled with old decommisioned flourescent tubes, painted black in and out, creating a passive heat exchanger! His calculations were that he had 4ft x 35ft of the south side in this system, and on a sunny day his heat exchanges captured over 12,000 BTU hour. He'd get home in the winter and open up a hatch, voila, tons of heat escaping into his living space. He'd then cover the tubes for night time.
~~ Create Your Own Future
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Re: Mongolian Yurt Style Structures (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by BCborn (kylecarrington (@) hotmail.com) on Mon Jul 11th, 2005 at 05:43:06 PM MST
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In my case I am looking at a 5 yr plan. The khanas, hub, rafters, and deck will indoubetdly last much longer. Larry's Yurt "top" is made of expensive vinyl used in semi-truck tarping, and is warranteed for 15 yrs. My rooftop is highly experimental, and cheap. It will be beat by next spring. However, it only takes an afternoon to change the top, and its inexpensive. I think, Yurts, unless you are a durable type, are mostly a temporary housing solution:

HOWEVER

if you wanna things further, build a Wood Frame Yurt. I highly recommend these over geodesic domes, they are cheapier and better in wind. It follows a similiar design concept but is usually an octogan shape of wood walls.
~~ Create Your Own Future
[ Parent ]



Re: Mongolian Yurt Style Structures (3.00 / 0) (#13)
by BCborn (kylecarrington (@) hotmail.com) on Mon Jul 11th, 2005 at 06:16:35 PM MST
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5 years is a very realistic expection. Yurts are not forever - but what $1000 structure is. Your khanas will last much longer, if not moved all the time. Kepp in mind, the heavier you make your khanas - the more stress is placed on making them conform to a circle - and therefore more stress is being placed ont he wood they are made of. Larry used 2x2 sticks for khanas and after 5 yrs they are still in good shape. He has little in the way of UV enetering his Yurt. My khanas are made from 1.5"x5/8" material. Larry after having built his in 2x2 recommended this for several reason. Most importantly, when you cut khanas from B grade lumber its easier to get a nice piece or 5/8"x1.5". This size conforms to a 24" diameter without stress, and is easy to work with. They fold up beautiful, and I could easier put my entire Yurt into a utility trailer and tow it with my car. That is not say I would use this size for camping! It's too much work for that unless you plan on camping in that place for at least a month or two. Make a smaller Yurt for camping! There are issues with larger Yurts that dont occure in smaller Yurts when erecting the structure - for example the rafters. Here in the north, Canadian Rockies we get a lof snow. My Yurt is 24' diameter, my rafter length is 11.6. This produces a Yurt with about a 4-12 pitch. At this pitch the heat loss of the Yurt literally makes the snow slide right off. Mongolians use a much slower pitch but I think theyd get less snow than us. It's not like 3 ft of snow is uncommon here, over night. Larry has a much greater pitch, very steep like a Cape Code Home. (8-12?)
His rafter length is 14'. We both use 2x4 for weight load strength. Larryleft for Thailand one year and returned with 4.5 ft of snow on his yurt - however his roofpitch was such that only at the very top did the snow remain - without any heat in his yurt. Mine, on the other hand will handle perhaps less snow, and require occasional cleaning - if no heat is being created inside. Keep in mind, theres no worry of the snow actually collapsing your Yurt, its the fact that between your rafter the weight will create saggage. If you have a steep pitch, 2x4 rafters or pole rafters, 24 rafters per 24' yurt, and a heavy tarp (13 ga. vinyl) you really have nothing to worry about at all. HOWEVER, as I said before there is ALWAYS a trade off for each design consideration. In this case, Larrys Yurt takes longer to heat, heat is lost to the top. In mine, I can increase the temperature of my Yurt over 30 degrees in under 30 minutes, its almost instant on as soon as I light the fire. My stove is glass faced and I keep it clean - this helps the radient heat echange, or at least i think it might - it seems to.

So in summary - think of your yurt as a 3, 5, or 15 year building, depending on your choices in materials, budget.

Having said that, the guy we learned this from has been living in his Yurt for 12 years now and its a cheapie. He throws and afternoon or three of his time and a few hundred bucks at it, per year and has never changed his khanas or rafters, or hub. Only his wall and roof coverings have been replaced and he started with used materials to begin with! (As did I)
~~ Create Your Own Future
[ Parent ]



Mongolian Yurt Style Structures | 36 comments (36 topical, 0 editorial)

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