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Blade-Carving 101 | 12 comments (12 topical, 0 editorial)
Re: Blade-Carving 101 (3.00 / 0) (#10)
by dalibor (mdalibor - at - gmail - com) on Thu Mar 8th, 2007 at 10:14:34 AM MST
(User Info)

well, somehow i was afraid you would advise me not to do it. i know how hard and dense beech is, but because of easy finding it on market i was consider it an option.

anyway, i will look more and talk with people who works with wood every day. i think i could find something with their help.    



Re: Blade-Carving 101 (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by RodN (_NOSPAM_info AT bnservices DOT it_NOSPAM_) on Thu Mar 8th, 2007 at 02:48:05 PM MST
(User Info)

Look how strange it is: here in Italy (not so far from you), beech is a lot more expensive than the pine tree (about 30-40% more).

Maybe it is because pine wood comes from the alps, beech from the carpatian mountains.

I ever wanted to ask this: what if you laminate two different kind of wood, for example alternating large strips of soft flexible wood with a small strip of hard heavy rigid wood?

This method was used in metal works during the middle ages to make the best swords in the world, the scimitars or the japanese katanas.

Just wonder about it.

[ Parent ]



Re: Blade-Carving 101 (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by jmk on Thu Mar 15th, 2007 at 06:19:34 AM MST
(User Info)

 I would think mixing the wood up would make it harder to carve. You would have to start with precision points. The weight of the wood would need to be all in the same places as you carved each blade. I think it could be done, but a well  balanced rotor might be hard to achieve. The better balance you have the better the rotor will perform. When they are a little bit out of balance they create drag and that will rob the watts.
jmk
[ Parent ]


Blade-Carving 101 | 12 comments (12 topical, 0 editorial)

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