Verify this, Code requires the interfacing connection to be of the same material to prevent galvanic corrosion. Assumption is the terminals are lead, so the copper needs to be lead coated at the battery interface. (only required at the ends)
Even if code is not a worry, the issue makes since to lead coat the copper.
Insulate the bus bars, heat shrink tubing will do nicely. I found some clear shirk tubing with mastic supposed to seal better. Will polish the bars and tin ends. After I drill bolt hole. Should look nice for a while!
My first copper was cylinder 5/16, planed to flatten ends. Took 45 minutes to cold form the spade lug on both ends. And a sore arm. Then bought 0.375 x 0.75 inch bars. Was too thick, should have gotten 0.25 max. Had to drill out the nut area 0.125 inch.
Make sure to leave spacing between each battery, they swell with age. Quarter of an inch should be good (for golf cart, more for larger battery).
Battery pack is 48 volts, 8 golf cart batteries. Connected U shape with fuse in middle of string.
Have fun, Scott.
Thanks, Again I'll post pic tomorrow or this weekend the completed setup looks much cleaner.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ[ Parent ]
Great looking forward to the pictures, cool if you have a before and after shots.
I noticed you did not mention Insulating the bus bars. You want to for two reasons. Protect the copper, sulfuric acid eats copper. Your good looking bars will not look good after the first equalizing charge. http://jchemed.chem.wisc.edu/JCEsoft/CCA/CCA3/MAIN/CUNASID/PAGE1.HTM The exposed bars are a shorting hazard or shocking hazard (if above 50v). Any metal tool dropped on top of battery... The wiring needs a fuse, so I used a 300a blade fuse in the middle string of batteries shaped in a U.
I also like the copper look, so found a clear shrink tubing with mastic as used in marine applications. Want the best seal to protect the copper. Cost $20 on eBay.
Looking into screwing a vent tube into the vent caps, this way I can keep the acid off the battery top and vent outside directly. Get the look of a sealed lead acid battery with flooded battery price!
Have fun, Scott.[ Parent ]
Inverter with DC ampmeter I picked up on Ebay.
http://www.zeveney.com/images/cool_ampmeter.JPG
I'll pull the bars this weekend. Melt lead on them for the interface to the batteries. Then wrap those with tape and spray paint the whole bar with the rubberized paint and repost those.
Z[ Parent ]
Any pictures of how you achived this? Or is it as simple as it sounds drill and tap the caps?
Thanks, again Z[ Parent ]
Found clear for the bus bars and red and black for the wires. A bit costly but it made me happy just like switching to bus bars made you!
Offset the two rows of batteries so the series connection was straight for the series bus bar also. No cables except coming off to the inverter. Solder only the bottom of the bus bar at the lead interface of the battery terminal. Polish the bus bars before putting on the clear shrink.
Wanted my flooded battery to have all the benefits of SLA without the price or life limitations. Tipping over was not an issue...:-)
Venting battery watering system: http://www.homepower.com/article/?file=HP108_pg82_REview
Problem, it has two vent holes, so have not done it. At the time could get for $6 per cell, just looked now more costly. Darn should have bought it them!
Buy replacement vent caps before drilling holes. My caps have an upside down U air path, drilling a hole may not work until the air path on the edge of the cap is blocked. Have not looked maybe vent tubing caps exist?
