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Copper Bar | 13 comments (13 topical, editorial)

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#8)
by jzeveney on Thu May 22nd, 2008 at 08:35:50 PM MST
(User Info)

Thanks Scott,
Well I purchased and install the 1/8 x 1".
I did drill and left about 1/2 to 1" space between bats.
I did not lead coat the interface. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend.
I really like the clean look the bars provide. Also much cheaper that buying the post connector with the female and male ends. I stared with those. Code about $150 bucks for those. I sold them to a golf course near me he could use them.

Thanks,
Again
I'll post pic tomorrow or this weekend the completed setup looks much cleaner.

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#9)
by scottsAI (user name at eml dot cc) on Sun May 25th, 2008 at 09:34:56 AM MST
(User Info)

Jzeveney,

Great looking forward to the pictures, cool if you have a before and after shots.

I noticed you did not mention Insulating the bus bars.
You want to for two reasons.
Protect the copper, sulfuric acid eats copper. Your good looking bars will not look good after the first equalizing charge. http://jchemed.chem.wisc.edu/JCEsoft/CCA/CCA3/MAIN/CUNASID/PAGE1.HTM
The exposed bars are a shorting hazard or shocking hazard (if above 50v). Any metal tool dropped on top of battery... The wiring needs a fuse, so I used a 300a blade fuse in the middle string of batteries shaped in a U.

I also like the copper look, so found a clear shrink tubing with mastic as used in marine applications. Want the best seal to protect the copper. Cost $20 on eBay.

Looking into screwing a vent tube into the vent caps, this way I can keep the acid off the battery top and vent outside directly. Get the look of a sealed lead acid battery with flooded battery price!

Have fun,
Scott.

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#10)
by jzeveney on Tue May 27th, 2008 at 08:30:59 PM MST
(User Info)

I have not covered the bars yet. Inplace of shrink wrap I was thinking about using rubber bedline paint. Why you ask I have it. I've been to several stores no one has shrink wrap large enough for the 1" bus bar. I have a can on rubberize bed liner. Sorry I din't think of taking a before piture at the same angle but here is one I had.
Here's the before http://www.zeveney.com/images/B4.JPG
Bus Bars installed
http://www.zeveney.com/images/after.JPG

Inverter with DC ampmeter I picked up on Ebay.

http://www.zeveney.com/images/cool_ampmeter.JPG

I'll pull the bars this weekend. Melt lead on them for the interface to the batteries. Then wrap those with tape and spray paint the whole bar with the rubberized paint and repost those.

Z

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by jzeveney on Tue May 27th, 2008 at 08:32:59 PM MST
(User Info)

Re:
Looking into screwing a vent tube into the vent caps, this way I can keep the acid off the battery top and vent outside directly. Get the look of a sealed lead acid battery with flooded battery price!

Any pictures of how you achived this? Or is it as simple as it sounds drill and tap the caps?

Thanks, again
Z

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by scottsAI (user name at eml dot cc) on Wed May 28th, 2008 at 09:27:09 AM MST
(User Info)

Jzeveney,
Check out eBay Item number: 220237851009
1" ADHESIVE LINED BLACK 3:1 RATIO HEAT SHRINK TUBING 4'

Found clear for the bus bars and red and black for the wires. A bit costly but it made me happy just like switching to bus bars made you!

Offset the two rows of batteries so the series connection was straight for the series bus bar also. No cables except coming off to the inverter.
Solder only the bottom of the bus bar at the lead interface of the battery terminal.
Polish the bus bars before putting on the clear shrink.

Wanted my flooded battery to have all the benefits of SLA without the price or life limitations. Tipping over was not an issue...:-)

Venting
battery watering system:
http://www.homepower.com/article/?file=HP108_pg82_REview

Problem, it has two vent holes, so have not done it. At the time could get for $6 per cell, just looked now more costly. Darn should have bought it them!

Buy replacement vent caps before drilling holes.
My caps have an upside down U air path, drilling a hole may not work until the air path on the edge of the cap is blocked. Have not looked maybe vent tubing caps exist?

Have fun,
Scott.

[ Parent ]

Copper Bar | 13 comments (13 topical, 0 editorial)

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