Go to Otherpower.com Home Page Go to Forcefield Shopping Cart Go to Wondermagnet.com Home Page
Front Page - [Homebrewed Electricity-- (wind) (solar) (hydro) (steam) (controls) (storage) (mechanical)] - Classifieds - Site News
Everything - Newbies - [Remote Living-- (housing) (heat) (light) (water)] - Rants & Opinion - Diaries - Our Products
stator cooling | 7 comments (7 topical, editorial)
Re: stator cooling (3.00 / 0) (#3)
by blueyonder (windwoodgood at yahoo dot co dot uk) on Sun Jun 8th, 2008 at 05:55:48 AM MST
(User Info)

 
 hi flux and thanks for the comments.
  now i have had time to digest what you said.
  as i am only learning slowly  then i went bye the book when it came
 to potting the rotor.
  only adding small vanes.
  but from what you said about about air from the magnets . if not potted
 sounds a good idea.
   so now i understand i can make a compromise and only half pot the mags.
   still cover them with glass matt.  
    so i will just half fill the rotor mould this time.
  no lid  and just stipple the matting with a brush.
   it wont be a perfect finish but will move plenty of air.
   but i will make sure the brush has a stainless steel metal band.

  if need be i can do a bit of sanding to get a better look.
   i suppose in a way this is a short cut.
   but now i understand a lot more .this will save resin and provide a good airflow.
   magnets will still be covered as well.

   and saves all that messing i was trying to do with the vanes.
   as you have said in the past its knowing where you can take short cuts.
 as this is small 9" rotors i am using here i cant drill holes near the center
  as is done on the larger gens of the rotor to help with air flow.

   as far as filling the winding space with copper
   then i still need to ask for advise on that.
 but i understand now what you mean  .get as much copper as will allow with the same amount of turns. just make the dia thicker.

 when i first started to wind test coils i was surprised as to how small thay  
  looked. against others i saw on here.
   putting then on the scale i new thay were to light in weight.
   i almost have that problem sorted out .
   but of course if i put to many turns of wire it will lower my cut in speed and go into stall.
   as my real love is working in wood i find trying to make electric at home
  a real challenge .

   but getting a lot of understanding here on this forum .
   i have one book written by hugh and looks like i can invest in a new one soon.
   he has a new book out. great just what i need.

  but i am still going to make holes in my stator.  thanks flux.

 
its a ill wind that dos no good
[ Parent ]



Re: stator cooling (3.00 / 0) (#4)
by vawtman (vawtman(at)charter(dot)net) on Sun Jun 8th, 2008 at 08:55:10 AM MST
(User Info)

Hi Blueyonder,
 I would build a temporary template to hold the mags from sliding around.Then use a long cure epoxy(not jb weld or other quickies).Would be no need to pot then.

 The ill wind from the mags may do some good then :v)

 Mark

[ Parent ]



Re: stator cooling (3.00 / 0) (#5)
by blueyonder (windwoodgood at yahoo dot co dot uk) on Mon Jun 9th, 2008 at 04:21:18 PM MST
(User Info)

 hi vawtman .im sure the ill wind will do sum good.
  on the first rotor i did use epoxy glue.
 and then potted it . first to be sure the mags dont get out.
  then the other was to let the resin protect one of the most expensive things
  i have bought in a while.
  sure wouldn't like to see them magnets go rusty.

 so as i said i will only half pot them.  hope you can understand what i mean.
   and the resin i save i can use on my boat for repairs .
its a ill wind that dos no good
[ Parent ]



Re: stator cooling (3.00 / 0) (#6)
by vawtman (vawtman(at)charter(dot)net) on Mon Jun 9th, 2008 at 05:00:05 PM MST
(User Info)

 Surface rust is a great primer for epoxies.My rotor is out in the rain rusting on purpose.
 If your using new steel lightly sand it to remove the protective coating so it can rust.
 Seems crazy but true.

 Are your mags protected by nickel now?

[ Parent ]



Re: stator cooling (3.00 / 0) (#7)
by blueyonder (windwoodgood at yahoo dot co dot uk) on Tue Jun 10th, 2008 at 06:10:11 AM MST
(User Info)

 
   well a very interesting reply vawtman.
  at one time my was working in the oil refinery's.
  the company i worked for built oil storage tanks. and pipe lines
  but one thing puzzled me when a tank was finished it was left for about
 three months before it was painted.
  of course in that time it was covered in surface rust  .
  to me that was very bad and couldest understand why it wasent painted sooner  

   and now after all this time i understand why .
  a twenty five year mystery solved ha-ha.
   so now i can leave bare metal outside if i am going to paint it soon.

    after wire brushing it of course .
  a good tip vawtman. i also found old brake fluid is great for cleaning a old paint
   brush that had gone hard.  
   were never to old to learn new tricks.
its a ill wind that dos no good
[ Parent ]



stator cooling | 7 comments (7 topical, 0 editorial)

Menu
· create account
· How to use the board
· FAQs
· search the board
· Google search the board
· Old Otherpower Board

Login
Make a new account
Username:
Password:

Powered by Scoop
You must be a registered user to post here. It's easy and free, and the link is on the upper right side of your page.
All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective companies. Postings are owned by the poster, but may be deleted or moved at the ADMIN's sole discretion. The Rest © 2003 Forcefield.
You can Email the board ADMIN here. PLEASE include the username you signed up with!