Several comments:
1) Air really wants big holes and more of them to get any decent flow through the disks.
2) The arrangement of air holes unbalances the rotor. Shoulda' had five, not three. Not fatal. But you'll have to balance the rotor and blades as a unit. (Mount your blades so the heaviest part is near the singleton hole - and the extra hub weight from the two missing holes - to minimize the tuning weights you need.) The stationary part of the genny won't be balanced so you'll need to spin it (in a calm area or inside, with the axis horizontal) and see which blade/side stops pointed down. Spin it in both directions to compensate for friction and average the downmost points. When it's balanced it will stop randomly. If you don't get it close to balance it will wig-wag when running (putting wear on the bearings, mainly the yaw bearing) and will be harder for the wind to start.
3) I don't see any mechanism for jacking the rotor down. How did you do that? (How will you get it off if you need to adjust the gap?)
4) You'll get a bit more out of the blades if you make the ends sharp, i.e. the end of the blade thins down to a knife-edge in the last inch or so rather than being rounded. It throws the tip vortex out - i.e. reduces the tendency of the air to run around the end of the blade from the high- to the low-pressure side and depower the last few inches of the tip, by making it jet off the tip so the blade has moved on by the time it gets turned around. Inch-for-inch the outermost part of the blade has the most swept area and thus the most potential power.
Grid tyeing a system is much more complicated than what I have done. My property does not have the grid available so I am strictly wind gennie with batteries. From what I understand, there is many rules and many dollar controllers to make that happen, and the coils and such must be wound for that purpose. If you read more on this site, I'm sure you'll find out what you need if you truly want to go grid tied. Oldcullett[ Parent ]