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Better Homemade Panels | 40 comments (40 topical)
Re: Better Homemade Panels (3.00 / 0) (#34)
by wingman1776 on Wed Oct 14, 2009 at 06:08:28 AM MST

great looking panel how many watt panel is that ?

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Re: Better Homemade Panels (3.00 / 0) (#35)
by springgrove on Wed Oct 14, 2009 at 04:28:27 PM MST

Don't know yet.  When I get home from work it's already dark (6:00 PM).  I hope to do some testing this weekend. Hopefully we get some sun.  Winter is on the way.

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Re: Better Homemade Panels (3.00 / 0) (#36)
by springgrove on Sat Oct 17, 2009 at 11:30:35 AM MST

Saturday 10-17-2009 1:00 PM (Testing Time)

The sun was in and out so I decided to do some testing.

Open circuit voltage 21.1 VDC



Max shorted current 3.79 Amps DC



Happy with the results.  Again the unit felt very solid as I carried it around.

Jerry

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Re: Better Homemade Panels (3.00 / 0) (#37)
by springgrove on Sat Oct 17, 2009 at 11:41:05 AM MST

Oh, forgot to add that the outdoor temperature was 48 degrees Fahrenheit.

Jerry

[ Parent ]



Re: Better Homemade Panels (3.00 / 0) (#40)
by mfisch2001 on Wed Nov 04, 2009 at 04:53:40 AM MST

   Nice looking panel. I hope it lasts. I have the cells and have been debating on the best way to make a panel. I was a process engineer for an electronics company and used many types of potting compounds. There are 2 types of 1 part silicone, one type releases Acetic acid when curing - this is your everyday silicone. It usually says it on the package and has the vinegar smell. The other type is for electronics. Both absorb water from the air to cure( and release a byproduct), which is why they recommend a max layer thickness of 1/4 inch or so. In a sandwich construction like this the silicone away from the edges may never truly cure which affects its mechanical and electrical properties. The specified properties are for a fully cured product.

   A 2 part silicone such as Sylgard would be a much better potting compound. Also since the black cells will heat much faster than the front glass, a very soft silicone is preferred over caulking type silicone to prevent cracking due to thermal expansion. Also if there is an impact or deflection of the front glass, there is less chance of cell damage with the softer silicone. We have large hail here so I have been hesitant to use any design which places in contact with (or bonds) the cells to the front glass.

   My plan was to bond the cells to the rear glass with a dab of silicone in the center, leave some of the tile spacers in place to support the front glass, put in some desiccant seal with silicone.

   I will be watching your thread and hopefully you will have some results by the time I actually build mine.

Mike

 

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Better Homemade Panels | 40 comments (40 topical)

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