Author Topic: Winding motors  (Read 1385 times)

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Winding motors
« on: September 30, 2005, 01:02:38 AM »
Hi again Zubbly,

I have done some more research on the internet.  Now know the difference between concentric and lap windings.  Can't wait till my new book gets here.

What would you recommend for the wire size?  Should I go with the same size that is already in the motor?

Can anyone tell me where I can buy supplies?(wire, wedges, string, varnish)?  I called the local rewind shop, and they told me sure they could sell me the parts, it would be about $300.  I really think they are trying to discourage me.  I will keep looking, I might have to make a trip somewhere to purchase what I need.

Has anyone had any luck with foam blades?  wrapping with either kevlar or fiberglass?  A good friend I work with has been making model airplane wings with a hot wire fixt. I helped him build.  He thinks we can modify it and make my blades.  We just need to figure out what airfoil to use.  If anybody has ideas, please let  me know.  thanks

« Last Edit: September 30, 2005, 01:02:38 AM by (unknown) »


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Re: Winding motors
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2005, 03:37:45 AM »
Hello Goose!

count the total number of turns in the original coil times the circular mill for that wire size. that is your "slot fill". after you determine the number of turns you need for your new winding, take the original slot fill divided by the number of new turns and that will equal your new wire size.

do a google on EASA. easa stands for "electric apparatus service association". that will list all the rewind shops in the world that are members. it will give you state by state motorshops, where they are as well as contact info.

the guy who quoted you $300 should be taken out and hung. most of the materials you need can be obtained from wondermagnet. many of the materials can be improvised.

hope this helps,


« Last Edit: September 30, 2005, 03:37:45 AM by zubbly »


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Re: Winding motors
« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2005, 06:01:09 AM »
I was quoted $250 to put 4, 1.25 X 1.25" coils in a 1/30th HP.

"Quoted" means it did't happen.

« Last Edit: September 30, 2005, 06:01:09 AM by ghurd »<<<-----Information on my Controller


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Re: Winding motors
« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2005, 05:03:12 PM »
300 dollars, US for winding material....

Huge pile of Fecal matter!!!

Here are some tips....

Knowing what your expected output current will be you want to have at least 300 CMs per amp of current. And try and keep magnetic densities in the Tooth and back back Iron close to what the original manufacturer had assuming your going to running in the same area for Hz output. If your above this reduce 10% for every 10% you go above (The Iron losses are not linear but your screwed about above 100 Hz with 60 Hz lams so don't go there). If your lucky and can get below 60 Hz I would increase any where up to 25% if your down as low as 30 Hz (not likely but good luck too you).


Can't buy DMD at a reasonable price? use Mylar sheets cut to size.

Varnish, by a can of Fiber glass epox resin. Its not as good if you over heat it but its better than nothing, or you could paint the new windings with many coats or Glyptal 1201A insulation paint ( Tough call, the epox is faster and thicker but the glyptal has better true class F insualtion rating ).

You don't need wedges if your under 2 kw, but I would splip some mylar over the tops of the slots and be sure lace up the nuckles of the windings with butchers knots to keep them from trying to move when you pour epox of varnish.

The US navy published some good winding books way back when check your PB library.

Lap wind it!!!!

« Last Edit: September 30, 2005, 05:03:12 PM by nickelbender »


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Re: Winding motors
« Reply #4 on: September 30, 2005, 05:08:49 PM »

I was a winder years ago...

It's a dying buisness and those(by this I mean the small independent shops) still in it making money are very slipery

« Last Edit: September 30, 2005, 05:08:49 PM by nickelbender »


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Re: Winding motors
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2005, 04:43:26 PM »
     You can use Marine Spar Varnish from Menards.  It also works good as a trim varnish.  The insulation paper is probably nothing more than heavy paper.  For the wedges a drop or two of 5 min epoxy will hold the wire in place.

      I can buy the wire cheap from the rewind shops but they want to sell a remnant roll that is left over and don't want to unwind any.  Also you have to watch the tare weight.  I bought a remnant bucket and having a shipping scale from where I used to work found out the tare weight [empty bucket, spool, and bucket lid] was not their estimated 3 lb but 6.  Having bought both, the wire here [at this site] seems to be a better grade.

       Recycled copper wire is getting well over a $1.00 a pound when you recycle it.  When the first thing out of their mouth is this fact watch out.

       There is a good formula for motor rewinding in the back of Windpower workshop.  I have never been able to put as much wire back in a slot as was taken out.  Using two wires in hand makes it easier.    
« Last Edit: October 02, 2005, 04:43:26 PM by Smithson »


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Re: Winding motors
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2005, 07:09:42 PM »
Personaly I would stick with materials meant for winding unless you are absolutely sure you insulation materials will never be subjected to more than 200 deg F
« Last Edit: October 21, 2005, 07:09:42 PM by nickelbender »