Author Topic: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...  (Read 37779 times)

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Madscientist267

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Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« on: December 10, 2010, 12:34:18 AM »
Welp, I've done it. At least conceptually...

In my quest to provide myself with a much cheaper alternative to real MPPT controllers, this is what I came up with. And it works rather well. Why would I spend a few hundred on 50W worth of panels that were FREE?!?! Ok, so read on -

The upper (rather cheezy) clamp meter is indicating voltage input from the 'panels'. It was dark when I ran this test, so I had to fake it with a switching supply in series with a 12V SLA to get close to reality in sunlight. It has just enough resolution to get the point across.  :-\

The Radio Shack meter is measuring current input to the buck converter.

The Fluke is measuring current drawn by the load on the output side of the buck.



And this is what it all looks like running:




The complete test environment (damn moon haha) supplying ~33V, via a 20V power supply tied in series with a 12V 5AH SLA...




The buck converter by itself, with the feedback pots (which are flaky as hell, to be fixed) and input/output connections visible.




A closeup of the buck itself, with the (obviously) beta connections tying everything together. This is actually Rev B of the design; the first had wires much longer, which simply KILLED efficiency. As in 6 feet under... :(




The buck running idle, with no load on it. Probably could halve this by ditching the LED that indicates output is present... :)




The buck converter running the portable CD player via it's 5V input jack. About 1:3 current gain here. Not bad.




This one proves that the pseudo-MPPT function is really worth pursuing... a 1:4+ current gain! And keep in mind, the OTV of the panels in series is 39V, not 33! So guess we will see just where this can end up!  8)




« Last Edit: December 10, 2010, 12:37:24 AM by Madscientist267 »
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2010, 03:20:05 AM »
I've been tinkering with this, more off than on, for a number of years.

The voltage feedback for the buck converter should come from the input. On a 12 volt system, should regulate Vin to the panels Vp of typically 18 volts.

I'm currently using an LM556 (dual 555), with the input voltage modulating the Cv pin of the second 555 to vary the pulse width.
First 555 runs at 45 KHz and triggers the second 555.

Works fine on the bench. Like yours.  Just won't play nice with a real solar panel. Something about input capacitance, or the wire run, or something.
Still working on it. Very slow going at the moment, because the weather won't co-operate. Half the country is under water.

Had an earlier version, using an LM3150, which actually worked. But the input and output filtering capacitors ran very hot.
Very hard to prototype using smd. Re-vamped it, but never got it to work again.

Amanda

ghurd

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2010, 07:57:43 AM »
Can change the indicator type LED to a water clear super extra ultra bright and drive it at about 1ma.  Or even less.

Stupid questions to follow...

The brain of the set up started as a 12V (or 12 to 24V input) to 5V switcher?
Something like this one?
http://www.otherpower.com/images/scimages/2050/USBswitcher.jpg

Are you worried about breaking 40V on the input?
Often, that's kind of a magic number for the smoke release valve.  I'd be worried about anything over 35V.

G-
www.ghurd.info<<<-----Information on my Controller

Opera House

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2010, 11:51:33 AM »
The following circuit can be added to any single input switching regulator chip and allow it to
operate like a two input type.  The zener is selected to be a couple volts under the desired
power point voltage.  Multiple zeners in series and the voltage drop of silicon diodes (D2) will
achieve this.  The 5.1K resistor limits maximum base current of the transistor and prevents it
from being acidently destroyed.  This transistor can be any small signal NPN and the diode D1 is
any small signal.  The regulator IC basically shuts down when the NPN transistor is in the off
condition.  Curent from the 300K resistor flows through D1 to the regulator sense voltage pin
shutting it down.  This assumes the voltage divider resistors are of a large enough value to be
affected by current from the 300K. When panel voltage raises above the "zener"Voltage the NPN
transistor conducts shunting the voltage of the 300K resistor to common.  D1 isolates the IC
sense voltage allowing the output of the regulator toraise to the nominal output voltage.  A
2K resistor in the bottom leg of the 5K voltage adjustment pot will give finer control.  The
picture shows this modification on a MC34063 board in the lower corner.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2010, 11:55:06 AM by Opera House »

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2010, 11:37:29 AM »
Amanda -

Hadn't thought about using the input voltage as the feedback. Problem with that is, even though it will improve efficiency for the panels, I want to leave the 'reserve' available for other potential uses (ie directly plugging in a cell charger rather than pulling from the battery, etc).

If I use the input as feedback, I'd have to use a dump controller on the battery, which would soak up that reserve coming from the panels. I suppose I could modify a controller to make it disconnect rather than shunt; may have to look into that as a possibility. Right now, I'm regulating via the output, set to 14.4, and when the battery is full, the excess power just doesn't get used, so it's available for other things. Hence the 'pseudo-MPPT'...  ;)

Another hack I'm looking at is the chip has built in current limiting, and so I may use that as the limiting factor on the input instead of the voltage. I've bought a few of the 'base units' to play with different configurations and what not, and you guys will be the first to know what I find.  8)

As far as getting it to play nice with a real panel, I think the secret is (as you eluded to) heavy capacitance using multiple small value caps (say, 5-10 for the range I'm using @ 470uF/50V, with bypass caps on each one, say 0.1uF) at the input as close as possible to the MOSFET/Toroid. I've noticed heat issues with caps too if only a couple are used. I think it's all an internal impedance thing. Using multiple smaller caps (with bypass on each one) gives better results.

To trick it out on the bench, use a length of nichrome that will limit the current, making the bench supply mimic the Ip-max (in my case 1.8A) that the panels are rated for, with the bench supply sitting as close as possible to the Vp-max rating (ie 18V). Seemed to work for my 'mini' version rather well, solar output was relatively identical to bench output. Haven't done it with the hi-power version yet. And like you, my two day clear sky window concluded with moderate water coverage, so I won't know how close all this is until after the water blows away.

Also, this system is MUCH more efficient with the panels tied in series rather than using them in their 'native' nominal environment, so the closer you can get to the fire/smoke release valve threshold for the components, the better. In my case, it's 40V. The OTV on my panels is 39 (thanks to having to bypass 2 bad cells in one of the panels).

Which brings me to Ghurd -

As mentioned above, yes the chip is Vmax'd at 40V, but the panels have been partly castrated, so they are just under that limit. The only component currently in the converter is a small electrolytic rated at 35V. Patiently waiting for it to make boom boom.  ;D


* 34063A.pdf (118.51 kB - downloaded 513 times.)
34063A Datasheet (lite version)


The basic brain is yes, a 12V -> 5V cell phone charger (actually GPS, but whatever, output was a USB port), based on the 34063A. It doesn't get any more simplistic than this thing. The datasheet checked out at 40, so I didn't hesitate to throw it on the panels. The only mod I made to the OEM design for initial testing was to replace the two precision feedback divider resistors with a couple of pots, one for coarse, one for fine. Worked well. As stated however, the weather here is not cooperating for the real world test on the beefed up version, so I'm limited to the 'lab'.  :-\

I ended up just ditching the LED altogether, input current now is (get this) a whopping 1mA (@33V) when idle. I'm good with that heheh ;)

I may end up putting one back in, just for giggles, but during testing, it isn't really needed anyway. The meters do a more than adequate job of telling me if it's providing output... LOL

My only gripe with the design I'm using so far is that I used the other 'counterfeit' 44N to drive the buck, and that's fine and all - works like a champ, but I had to run it in a drain-follower configuration. Result there of course is, I'm losing a couple volts at the input of the toroid from the gate drop.

Not a big deal at the moment, but I may look into a P-Channel instead and redo the connections on the chip (has open emitter and collector for output, so I would just tie the emitter to ground and pull the P-Channel's gate to ground in a common-drain configuration. The design for the OEM unit doesn't use an external driver tranny at all, just uses the internal output stage (NPN) to drive the tiny toroid in a emitter-follower config.
 



This is pretty much the configuration of the current version in the pics above. Primary difference is that the external NPN is replaced with an IRFZ44N. Also, I am currently not utilizing the current sense resistor. Collector (source) in mine goes straight to Vcc. The resistor is still there, but is only 'limiting' the current that the chip draws to drive the MOSFET (almost nothing).



Opera -

Not 100% sure I'm understanding exactly what I'm seeing in the schematic, although it appears you're essentially doing what Amanda was referring to with using the panel voltage as the feedback. Your circuit is based on the same chip I'm using... got a schematic for the whole thing, not just the mods?

Steve
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2010, 01:01:09 PM »
Forgive the double post here, but I couldn't seem to edit the last one... modify button is missing...?

Anyway -

Amanda,

I got to thinking about the whole feedback from panel voltage thing, and it got me wondering if it would be viable (albeit at a slight conversion efficiency loss) to use two bucks in 'series' tandem to accomplish both tasks at once...

Using the voltage and current feedback from the panel, set these to Pmax values, and then take whatever the output is that comes out of this first conversion and feed a second buck with voltage regulation based on the output to the battery (ie 14.4 etc).

I'm thinking this would provide optimum panel input performance, and won't require a dump to limit battery voltage at the terminals. I just don't know what the overall effect would be in terms of whole-system efficiency, from panel to battery.

Think it's worth messing with?

Steve

PS - NOW modify shows up... I think it's because my last post was a 'cookie' login; they still don't show the modify button, but after a forced logoff/on, this one does... Bug report for the admins?  ???
« Last Edit: December 11, 2010, 01:03:09 PM by Madscientist267 »
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2010, 02:40:25 PM »
Steve,

Conversion efficiency is of the utmost importance with these things. It is very easy to whittle away most of the gain to be had from mppt. So I would strongly discourage serialising 2 converters.

And to charge batteries you need current; Not voltage. Just throw current at it, and let the voltage take care of itself.

As for solar panels. You need to study some typical performance curves.  Current varies greatly as a function of insolation.  Fortunately, the Vmp remains fairly constant.  So regulating off the input voltage, and letting it dump whatever current it can into the battery is a viable approach.

What I have just discovered, at least with my one panel currently set up, is that the Vmp on a hot summers day is somewhat less than I expected. I had earlier found it to be 17.6 volts. Now I find it closer to 16 volts. With my Lithium batteries almost charged, at 14 volts, this doesn't give me much room to play with.

Amanda

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2010, 04:23:14 PM »
Yeah, that drop is from the heat generated by the sun itself, on top of the heat generated by the cells during generation if I understand it properly. Tripped me out for a second tho when you mentioned that you 'just discovered' on a 'hot summer day' LMAO I had to do a double take and recall that you're on the 'south side'.  It's been close to freezing here in VA for a few days straight now! :D

Running a 12V nominal panel into a '12V' battery, the 'efficiency' of conversion in this circuit is almost counterproductive. The gains simply don't add up to enough to bother with it. Sounds like maybe you've got a 33 cell panel too, not a 36? That of course would lower your margin even more so, compounding the problem...

In my application however, I have essentially a 24V nominal PV array showing 39V OTV (rather than 40.x) due to 2 cells in one panel that needed to be bypassed. Having witnessed the panels being able to dump well over an amp into '12V', the efficiency of the buck increases. With 500mA draw at 33V (on the bench), I'm kicking out over 2A at the output holding 5V into a length of nichrome.

Given that this is more than the Isc current (~1.8A) for the panels, I'm loosely confident that with the input at ~35V (should be about the sweet spot for full direct sunlight), I could be pulling 1.7A from the panels (again, sweet spot), converting this to a usable output of between 4 and 4.5A @14.4V.



[EDIT] - Begin Busted Logic Demonstration -

Conversion efficiency is definitely high priority, but keep in mind I want to leave the excess power available straight from the panels, not dump it to a dummy load to prevent damage to the battery from overcharge voltages...When the battery is full, I want it to just 'back off' of the panels and let them float up toward their OTV, not be held loaded by a conventional dump load.

It may end up being one of these compromise kinda things... take a small hit in performance to gain a feature... The up side of that design is also if I use the system to charge a battery and I know I don't need the surplus for anything else, I could hit it with a DPDT switch to A, cut the second converter out of the circuit completely, and B, use it in 'give-it-everything-you-can' mode with a dump load should I choose.

[EDIT] - Busted Logic Demonstration - The Revolution -

I guess what I'm asking here is, based on the parameters I've given from the tests, what would you say the efficiency of the buck is in it's current configuration? I know it's not linear; the higher the input voltage, and the lower the output voltage, ie greater input:output ratio, the less power gets lost in the conversion. I haven't sat down and ran all the math to get the curve myself, but quick looks to me like:

Higher power:
33V x 0.5A = 16.5W Input
5V x 2A = 10W Output
-----------------
~60.6 % Efficiency...

Lower Power:
33V x 0.042A = 1.386W Input
5V x 0.150A = 0.75W Output
-----------------
~54.1% Efficiency...

Ouch. Guess you're absolutely right... Not that I really doubted it in concept, but just didn't think it was that bad...

[EDIT] - Natural, Intrinsic End to Busted Logic Demonstration -



From the looks of things, I guess I would be better with just one buck (hopefully more streamlined than that), with a disconnect type charge controller. Don't hesitate to tell me that my math is wrong... LOL I'd love to hear that, because that is just SICK!  :'(

Dunno, maybe I'm overthinking the problem. Typical for me...

Let's take a left turn here then... Ideas for maximizing efficiency of the buck? Above 75% at lower power (or better)?

The toroid seems like a good place to start... get the clock in resonance with the toroid?

Steve
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joestue

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2010, 06:24:30 PM »
didn't you mention earlier that you don't have a boot strap gate driver?
if so you're losing a good 4-5 volts in the switch, this voltage will be fairly constant below 10 amps, which is probably why the efficiency climbs with input voltage.

also, your diode is dropping a good one volt.

find a synchronous buck control chip, they have integrated boot strapping to drive the high side, and the .1 volt drop in the lower switch will boost the efficiency 5-10% over a silicon diode as well.
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2010, 07:00:43 PM »
Not sure what you're getting at by 'boot strap'... ?

The increase in efficiency doesn't always mean an increase in input voltage. Lowering the requested output has the same effect... ?

4-5V loss in driving the gate? On an IRFZ44N? I believe threshold is half that, like 2.5V... ?

The diode is a twin Schottky, designed for switching supplies specifically... ?

It's a bit blind for me, never seen active push-pull in a real world buck (granted, my experience with them is typically with the cell charger species), but I punched 'synchronous buck driver' into google and the first hit was the datasheet for the UCC27223.

For convenience: http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/ucc27223.pdf

From the looks of it, this is what you're referring to. So is the 'bootstrap' diode the Schottky going up 'over top' of the chip in the 'Functional Application Diagram'?

I know I probably sound like an idiot at this point, but didn't think these were realities in buck design. Full blown switch mode with transformers, yes. Buck/Boost, no.  ???

Steve
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joestue

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2010, 07:17:49 PM »
bootstrap refers to any level shifted capacitor charged by a diode to provide a limited amount of power.

i looked up the datasheet for the fep16gt, and read it wrong, it looks like thats a 400 volt diode and the v drop is 1.3 volts at 8 amps.
as you're running it less than 2 amps its probably about .8 volts,
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/GeneralSemiconductor/mXsrvut.pdf

if you google synchronous buck controller you'll get more results.

the gate may turn on at 2.5 volts, but i can't guess and say what your peak to peak current ripple on the inductor is.
either the capacitors you have are old, or is quite likely that you have a discontinuous current, at turn on the current is near zero, and at turn off it could be anywhere from 4 to 8 amps.
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #11 on: December 11, 2010, 07:37:43 PM »
Yep thats the one, but it might be even less with both cathode legs tied together (the current is split between them).

My next move was to obtain an old AM tuning cap, and ring the toroid to resonance at it's center position, so that I could play with 'flat' and 'sharp' tuning to see if this made a difference.

Also, I noticed that the toroid I'm using (according to the links you provided) may not be the standard ferrite material. My clue was that it was wrapped in the typical yellow tape found in many switching supplies which apparently means something about being higher remanence (didn't look very close at the board I scrounged it from). This apparently can be an issue when it comes to high efficiency buck conversion. Going to try some others that I know were specifically used in a buck circuit to eliminate that wild card.

Biggest problem ATM is that I already have ~$60 worth of basic 'brain' units to experiment with, and they are all the same type, and are now all out of warranty if you catch my drift...  :-\

So, if I change chips now, I'm basically throwing that away... :( But if I at least tweak all the other variables that would need adjusting anyway while working with these, I won't consider them such a loss... Know what I mean?

Also, what do you think about the whole P-channel vs N-channel thing? I could eliminate the gate drop by running as a common drain (source?) instead of drain follower... I always get the mosfets mixed up with the bipolars, and I think I mentioned going to P-channel before when really I think I meant N-channel...? Either way, the opposite of what I'm doing now with the IRFZ44N...  ;D

Edit - Just checked - I did in fact mean P-channel.

Steve
« Last Edit: December 11, 2010, 07:52:49 PM by Madscientist267 »
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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2010, 08:03:26 PM »
well if you switch the negative side (positive ground) you can still use the n-fets.
That toroid is almost certainly iron powder, which is what you want.
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #13 on: December 11, 2010, 08:10:59 PM »
I'm going to assume you're referring to the output ground, yes?

Steve
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #14 on: December 11, 2010, 08:14:45 PM »
Steve,

for a buck (or boost for that matter) converter, the toroid should be powdered iron, NOT ferrite.

Ferrite will work if you cut an air gap in it.  Powdered iron has a distributed air gap, due to the material.
Generally, ferrite toroids are black.
Powdered iron are coloured, often yellow or green.
And yes, to get over 90% efficiency, you really need a synchronous converter.

The LM3150 I was playing with earlier, achieved 98% on the NatSemi webBench simulator.

Amanda

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #15 on: December 11, 2010, 08:27:46 PM »
Those are the ones I have 'stocked', yellow, 1" OD, 1/2" ID (maybe slightly less), 1/4" thick, and wound with ~30 turns of (guessing) 20ga wire...



Sound good?

Steve
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #16 on: December 11, 2010, 08:38:20 PM »
Those are the ones I have 'stocked', yellow, 1" OD, 1/2" ID (maybe slightly less), 1/4" thick, and wound with ~30 turns of (guessing) 20ga wire...


Sound good?

Steve

Yep,

sounds good.

joestue

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #17 on: December 11, 2010, 08:38:33 PM »
that's 16 gauge wire, measured with my harbor freight callipers and laptop monitor   ;D

good starting place for an inductor, i'd wind about twice as many turns on it though, see how it works.
did it get warm at all in your previous tests?.
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2010, 08:41:35 PM »
LOL - harbor freight seems to be the place around here hahaha, but the computer monitor? LMFAO That's a new one...  :o

As far as heat, no... but I haven't subjected it to limit pressing currents yet either... I take it I should hahaha

Steve
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Opera House

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #19 on: December 13, 2010, 12:11:55 PM »
"it appears you're essentially doing what Amanda was referring to with using the panel voltage as the feedback"

I don't see how you can do it any other way without dragging the panel voltage so low that all efficiency is lost.  My circuit simply fakes the input  sense pin into believing the output of the regulator is too high thus shutting it down.  Input and output work in perfect harmony.

While at my camp this year I needed to control some panels with about 15A.  My town dump came to the rescue.  Got a computer backup power supply for the FETs and a bunch of batteries from the recycle bin.  I'm awash with Li-ion batteries for projects.  I drove the FETs with a battery through an opto isolator transistor driving a 300K gate drain resistor.  Works great.  Can probably go 2 years before having to charge the battery.  This is only good for low speed because of the input capacitance of the fet would cause switching transition heating. It would likely work adding it to a PWM chip at about 100 Hz.

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #20 on: December 13, 2010, 01:25:17 PM »
Are you using isolation diodes on both sides of the buck?

Meaning, so that the panel voltage and the battery voltage don't negatively interact with each other, but either condition (full battery / above PV's 'sweet spot') causes 0% duty in the converter?

Steve
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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #21 on: December 13, 2010, 10:20:16 PM »
I've switched over to the input sensing, and as it turns out, none of the fancy zener work described by opera was necessary...

I used the voltage divider to directly drive an NPN switcher transistor, which effectively, has a zener 'built in'.

Targeting a ~0.7V threshold, I used 150K connected to the input (positive), which has 10K and 1K cermets (in series, coarse/fine), the other 'end' of which is tied to ground.

The base of the NPN is driven by the tap where the 150K and the 11K meet, and is adjusted for 36.2V (the adjusted sweet spot for the good/bypassed panels in series).

At the threshold, the tranny begins to conduct, shutting down the converter. The Vsense pin on the 34063 is biased toward input via a 270K resistor, and so tends to try and make the circuit run. The result is the input is held very effectively at 36.2V. Voila!

It works well, but overall efficiency does not appear to be all that hot... I think it's just because I'm using a higher output voltage than the first set of tests (now 14.4, rather than 5). I'm going to run the math at some point and find out.

As I predicted, the output wants to run away, and take the battery with it, so my dump controller is dumping some decent current (about 3A).

I'm getting ready to build a modified dump, which opens the MOSFET when the threshold gets hit, rather than shorting it, placing the MOSFET between the output from the converter and the battery.

I also intend to build in a serious capacitance at the input from the panels, a handful of differing value caps to give as little ripple on the input as possible.

More to come as I find it all out. Stay tuned.  ;D

Steve  
« Last Edit: December 13, 2010, 10:23:26 PM by Madscientist267 »
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #22 on: December 14, 2010, 01:10:06 AM »
as it turns out, none of the fancy zener work described by opera was necessary...

Absolutely necessary ? NO.

Will it work better with it in ? Almost definitely.

it will take a smaller change in input voltage to make the transistor switch.
Effectively giving the control loop a higher gain.

In my case, where the input voltage is modulating the Cv pin on a 555 to vary the pulse width, it is absolutely necessary.

Still doesn't solve my problem of the Vp of the panels changing with temperature though.
Hopefully, by the new year, I will be able to post details of my tracking mppt.

Amanda

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #23 on: December 14, 2010, 04:25:14 AM »
Thermistor?  ;D

I currently don't see the need to have faster switching, it holds within ~0.02V of where I set it, regardless of the current drawn, etc... ? Efficency maybe?

On the other hand...

I've made the second dump controller, and had problems with switching the MOSFET fast (or hard) enough to get it to work properly as a 'let-it-go' type controller.

I tried a few things, and ultimately ended up completely disconnecting the MOSFET, and hitting the pin combinations with a meter.

In the by-design configuration, I finally found the problem, although I can't explain why it's there. I don't have a schematic yet, so I'll try to describe the problem with words, best I can...

It is set up as common-drain, and is supposed to disconnect the battery when it hits a threshold.

From Bneg to gate, I'm showing ~12V when the voltage is below threshold. That's fine - would pull the source to ground, completing the path to the battery from the buck.

When the threshold is exceeded, this drops to ~0.2V. Again, would be ok. Now the tranny would disconnect the battery from the buck.

From Bneg to drain, 0V in either state (drain is ultimately connected to Bneg ).

Now here's where it gets wierd -

From Bneg to source, there is a ~ -22V that I can't explain. The end result of this is, the MOSFET stays on regardless of input from the controller (gate is effectively positive)...

My solution I believe will come in the form of an optoisolator. We will see... Not enough time left tonight to find out.  :-\

Steve
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joestue

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #24 on: December 14, 2010, 10:24:47 AM »
LOL - harbor freight seems to be the place around here hahaha, but the computer monitor? LMFAO That's a new one...  :o

As far as heat, no... but I haven't subjected it to limit pressing currents yet either... I take it I should hahaha

Steve

have you ever needed to figure out the surface area of an oddly shaped object?  take a photo of it, count the pixels...

as far as driving the fet... just order 5$ worth of high side drivers.. it really is worth it.
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2010, 11:15:55 AM »
Yeah, after thinking about it, I roughly guessed how you did it...

I figured you maybe measured the TO-220 buck 'chip' and then just extrapolated from there, since it was really the only 'size-wise' comparable component on the board...

How close am I? A score of 1 to 10...  :P
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Opera House

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #26 on: December 14, 2010, 01:07:32 PM »
"As I predicted, the output wants to run away, "

Are you sensing input and output?  I can't see any need for a dump controller.

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #27 on: December 15, 2010, 01:30:40 AM »
Okie... here we go!

Tomorrow is forecast for a day of clear in Richmond VA. This is where I work. Guess where my panels will be tomorrow...

But first, what the #%$^ is THIS?!?! Can anybody tell me?!





No guess? Out of that, came this:




From upper left to lower right:

On the couch:
1 - Uber beta buck converter with input sense feedback, optimized at 36.2V. No zener. We will see.  ;D
2 - Panel Harness
3 - Conventional dump type charge controller, with 55W foglamp as the dump load.

On the floor:
4 - The panel that had the two damaged cells bypassed. The main bad one is more than obvious... the other not so much (above the obvious).
5 - The good panel



Some detail:


The panels face down after wiring.



The panel harness with ammeter insert port populated. The normal everyday shunt is just to the left of the port connection.



Here is the capacitor array I spoke of. This severely stiffens the input from the panels going into the buck converter.

From left (output) to right (input):
2x 0.1uF 50V ceramic
1x 1000uF 50V electrolytic
2x 0.1uF 50V ceramic
1x 2200uF 50V electrolytic
1x 1uF 250V metal film
1x 2200uF 50V electrolytic
1x 1000uF 50V electrolytic
1x 0.1uF 250V metal film

All on a #10 stranded buss, soldered from one end to the other on both sides.

Hate to cut it short (like anyone here really likes my rambling), but it's late, and I have to get up early to pack up everything in the morning so I can take it with me... More when I get the results back!

Steve
« Last Edit: December 15, 2010, 01:36:06 AM by Madscientist267 »
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commanda

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #28 on: December 15, 2010, 03:05:55 AM »
Just be aware; Cap's ain't Cap's.

There's this little thing called ESR. For switchmode supplies, you really need low ESR.
I know your current setup is not particularly demanding, but further down the track if you scale it up, need to be aware of this.

A quick Google turned this up:
From the Nichicon catalog:

* VX - impedance isn't rated; Max. I(Ripple) = 710 mA

* PW - Z = .038 Ohm; Max. I(Ripple) = 1655 mA

* HN - Z = .007 Ohm; Max. I(Ripple) = 3770 mA

Not sure exactly what capacity/voltage they're talking about, but interesting comparison never the less.

Amanda

Opera House

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #29 on: December 15, 2010, 11:17:41 AM »
Most of those ceramic and metal film caps aren't worth the solder you attached them with.  The ESR on them is worse than the electrolytics.
I can measure ESR to .001 ohm on my ESI and the results are shocking except for polypropylene film.
Just some examples internal resistance of other consumer capacitors for comparison at 1khz:

PANASONIC X2          .1UF     6.01 ohms
AEROVOX glass sealed  .047UF   22.6 ohms
ERO  MKT              .022UF   44.8 ohms
SPRAGUE orange epoxy  .022UF   215 ohms
ITW  blue epoxy       .022UF   9.93 ohms
ceramic Z5U         .03UF    68.2 ohms
PMG blue epoxy        .015UF   54.1 ohms
MURATA W brown epoxy  .15UF    6.30 ohms

Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #30 on: December 15, 2010, 12:09:21 PM »
I suppose... This is getting complicated.

The panels are 'flying' today, and doing ok, but I can hear chaos in the toroid, wondering if this is due to the whole ESR thing. May also be some saturation as well. My end (more realistic) goal is 1:2 current gain (rather than my original over-wishing of 1:4), but it doesn't really seem to want to go over about 1.2A into 12V nominal at the output, pulling ~600mA from the panels. So the more realistic ratio is there, but I know the panels could do much more than what I'm getting. Maybe even just connected straight to the battery...  :-\

Based on my findings, I should be able to suck between 3.5 and 4A out of this puppy...

The panel regulation is working, it stays at ~37V regardless of load. Maybe sweep the pots and try to tweak out the sweet spot?

I need to do some more tests and find out how much effect each and every 'component' in the system is affecting performance. The deeper I dig, the more complicated this gets, and it's starting to become frustrating.

What about tantalum (in terms of ESR)? Trying to work with what I can get my hands on (meaning free; that whole 'cheap' thing)...

Steve
« Last Edit: December 15, 2010, 12:11:37 PM by Madscientist267 »
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Madscientist267

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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #31 on: December 15, 2010, 12:51:00 PM »
Welp, 86 that. I just popped something in the buck in a fit of frustration trying to determine what it WOULD put out... Shorted across the output with the ammeter, it hit 600mA and then croaked after about 3 seconds. Not impressed.  >:(

Because I used some insight when I laid out the connectors, I was able to simply bypass the buck entirely, and go straight from panel to battery with just the dump controller left in the equasion.

It's of course not utilizing the power anywhere NEAR the peak power (particularly since ATM I don't have a way to parallel the panels), so 39 OTV pulled down to 14.4, it's still making quick work of topping off these batteries (sat on a shelf for about a year... OTV averages 12.5V). Current stays slammed at 1.79A, until the dump triggers. Because the ammeter is after the dump load, it then drops to ~600mA, fluttering of course, and the foglamp lights up like christmas. WooHoo... LOL

It's not a total loss; I've learned a lot from version 1.0, and as always everybody's insight on here is always a help...

I'll be looking into the synchronous for version 2.0

I'm going to have to investigate the problem spots tho... looks like ESR, Toroid/Oscillator speed tweaking, and MOSFET drive are the three major bugs in this version.

Sound about right? Keep the suggestions coming... I have a feeling I'm really going to need them.  :-\

Steve
« Last Edit: December 15, 2010, 12:57:15 PM by Madscientist267 »
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Re: Primitive (aka CHEAP) buck converter for solar...
« Reply #32 on: December 15, 2010, 01:00:57 PM »
I was working on a PC mother board.
Found a forum talking about it.  
IIRC, the gist of it was...
Their talk revolved around a major cap company reducing the Ripple Current rating while keeping the same part number.
The mother board manufacturers had no earlier problems with that part number so they kept using it.
Then the mother board caps started popping, same problem my mother board had.
Those guys seemed to know what they were talking about, and they overwhelmingly blamed it on the ripple current.
G-
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