Author Topic: dual helix  (Read 2464 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

spinner

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
dual helix
« on: December 01, 2005, 12:22:30 AM »
here (I hope)are the pics folks have been having probs with
« Last Edit: December 01, 2005, 12:22:30 AM by (unknown) »

TomW

  • Super Hero Member Plus
  • *******
  • Posts: 5130
  • Country: us
Re: dual helix
« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2005, 05:29:33 PM »
Please allow me to assist:

#1

http://www.otherpower.com/images/scimages/874/dualhelix1.jpg">

#2

http://www.otherpower.com/images/scimages/874/dualhelix2.jpg">

#3

http://www.otherpower.com/images/scimages/874/dualhelix3.jpg">
« Last Edit: November 30, 2005, 05:29:33 PM by TomW »

jmk

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 603
Re: dual helix
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2005, 05:06:58 AM »
   Looks pretty neat! Have you had it runing ret? If so, what kind of output do you get from the alternater? Something that size must not spin very fast? I bet it has good torque. Do you use a puly sytem like a drill press to get it to a proper speed? Tell us more. I am interrested!  
« Last Edit: December 01, 2005, 05:06:58 AM by jmk »

spinner

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
Re: dual helix
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2005, 07:03:51 AM »
I had the helix up for a year to see if the twr. and the helix would hold up ok..it has, even during 60mph winds; it gets scary to hear/watch at that kinda wind speed, tho!

I have a woeful lack of test equipment, due to that fact, I was unable to get much data when I did hook up the belt drive and genny a month or so ago, I only know that,the low end output seems low ( I need to improve my coil setup, I presume) but the high end will excede 130vac unloaded. Too much for th homemade heaters that I planned on using, rather than battery charging (another DUH!)...this setup is another concession to being kinda short on cash LOL.

I am converting to a 6/1 chain drive and have plans to get the auto raise and lower setup working by spring...it seems to me that mill speed control via voltage output derived raising and lowering is  CRITICAL to the success of this lil project;better testing ability is also on the list of gotta haves hehehe.

BTW...TOM, thanks for the help on the posting.

spinner
« Last Edit: December 01, 2005, 07:03:51 AM by spinner »

Bruce S

  • Administrator
  • Super Hero Member Plus
  • *****
  • Posts: 5370
  • Country: us
  • USA
Re: dual helix
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2005, 11:39:39 AM »
Spinner;

 Nice tower and mill setup.

Glad to hear it held up to 60mph.

Instead of going the route of a chain, how hard would it be to go with 3 different gennys built for different speeds?

I'm sure it could get complicated, but might be worth the trouble.


Thanks for the pics.

Bruce S


 

« Last Edit: December 01, 2005, 11:39:39 AM by Bruce S »
A kind word often goes unsaid BUT never goes unheard

spinner

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
Re: dual helix
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2005, 07:50:52 AM »
that type of thing crossed my mind, seemed more difficult than having the genny/helix assy. go higher or lower depending on wind speed ( so far that ain't been all that easy either)


If I hadn'ta been in a rush when we tipped 'er down to replace my homemade top sleeve bearing, the stationary mast portion would still be ok and the unit would be flying now

*hehe......


addition of a reliable tach to my miniscule test stuff and winding a more efficient set of coils for more lowspeed production, along with getting the auto up/down operational will go far to make the unit more efficient, I hope

spinner

« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 07:50:52 AM by spinner »

electrondady1

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3120
  • Country: ca
Re: dual helix
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2005, 07:55:41 AM »
hello spinner , could you please find or borrow a camera that can make a little video of your mill . i really want to see what it looks like under power!!

 its difficult to tell from your photo but it looks as though you have gone the route of threee rotors and two stators. am i right ? neos on the out side ceramics in the middle?

please describe the workings of your alternator.


 i attempted such a device last winter but had difficulty getting the central rotor to run true.

« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 07:55:41 AM by electrondady1 »

spinner

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
Re: dual helix
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2005, 08:20:32 AM »
The genny is a pretty standard 9/12 dual rotor with Eds triangle (neo) mags.

 Coils wound fron #14 wire;  about 7/16" x 13/16" ..all the room I had.Each coil was individually wrapped and soaked in insulation before the assy.

Airgap is about two playing cards thick (my usual sorta lotech measurement!) I think I shoulda/coulda wound 'em with either less turns or larger wire or like Dan does two strands of a ? smaller wire...I get alllll confusseddddd about the coil thing, no matter how many posts I study!

What makes it look different, I think, is the stator pieces: 2 composite (wood) disks that were soaked in waterproofing multiple times. The process took longer than some others, but I can fiddle with coil set ( or a burned out coil ) replacement without pouring a new stator assy.

As for pics: when weather allows rasing the new version I will take some, its a cross between fun/scary to see and HEAR it wind up in a stiff wind!

spinner


 

« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 08:20:32 AM by spinner »

wayne

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 94
Re: dual helix
« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2005, 08:28:51 AM »
Like to know why you went so large the first time. Or did you build a smaller version and how did this work out. I would like to scale a smaller version but what would be good to cover it with. How does it work in low wind.


Thks

Wayne

« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 08:28:51 AM by wayne »

electrondady1

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3120
  • Country: ca
Re: dual helix
« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2005, 08:34:17 AM »
ok. guess i was way off on that, perhaps it was wishful thinking on my part that some one had succeded with the dual stator design.

 so you have rigged it up to be able to replace individual coils! thats slick!
« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 08:34:17 AM by electrondady1 »

spinner

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
roundabout reply to ed
« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2005, 08:45:13 AM »
gotta do it this way cause the origional page, for some reason?, will not allow me to respond to others comments.

Thank you for the kind words about my lil project!

The covering is made of flashing material ( like one uses for roofs ) a roll like the one I used runs around 50 bucks and I used almost all of it.

The pieces are fastened to the strut units via U shaped clips with an oversize 1/4 inch hole in the center of the U and holes near the ends of the U (same size). Each strut ( you may be able to see'em in the pic ) has inlets cut into the plywood that resembles a T.

The bolt that holds the skin in place is locked into the T, and passes thur the U, with each unit held in place via a bolt passing thru the legs of the U and thru the strut..( took quite a while, probably lots of better ways to do it than with a lil do-mor grinder).  a strip of aluminum 1&1/2" wide extends along the outside edge from the center to the tip (or nearly so) it is thrubolted to its strut unit and also contains a captive 1/4 x 1" bolt that also passes thru the outer covering.

Last but not least...I made aluminum V shaped pieces that cover the outer edge of the

sheet and are secured to each outer end of each strut for strength ( flashing matl is quite prone to flexing otherwise).


THe units have a thru bolt that fastens each hub to the tubing.


I made a crude indicator when I built the unit for the purpose of setting the tip to tip offset...a must!

It clamps to the shaft and has a10/24 stud pointed ahead and behind, offst to the amount of degrees I needed to make the helix shape.......after setting one unit, each succesive unit is set off the indicator...when all center units are set and checked, ya skin the thing.

my reply is too wordy,,sorry

spinner

   

« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 08:45:13 AM by spinner »

spinner

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
Re: dual helix
« Reply #11 on: December 02, 2005, 08:42:14 PM »
after I figured how to build one, I went ahead (with fingers crossed, of course) and built it with the hope/assumption that size=torque, so I better make it big eneough to have some fudge factor.

« Last Edit: December 02, 2005, 08:42:14 PM by spinner »

Bruce S

  • Administrator
  • Super Hero Member Plus
  • *****
  • Posts: 5370
  • Country: us
  • USA
Re: dual helix
« Reply #12 on: December 05, 2005, 07:48:43 AM »
Hello Spinner;

   Thanks for taking the time to answer all the questions. I've seen a pulley setup that makes use of opposing "Vs" pulleys. This arrangement was on an e-trike a friend is building. This setup may work for your speed setup.

Seems having the opposing "Vs" will automatically adjust for the speed versus torque on your genny.

Can't say for sure that it will work with a chain setup, but it works for the low speed startup on the e-trike.

Just a thought. The hardest part is getting the belt to ride on the "V"s correctly.

The look something like this ( I'll take pics once the temps out side are better that 10F)

<

>

Just a thought.

Bruce S


 

« Last Edit: December 05, 2005, 07:48:43 AM by Bruce S »
A kind word often goes unsaid BUT never goes unheard

spinner

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
Re: dual helix
« Reply #13 on: December 05, 2005, 08:04:20 AM »
Hey Bruce!


would love to see those pics when ya get a chance

spinner

« Last Edit: December 05, 2005, 08:04:20 AM by spinner »

pepa

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 461
Re: dual helix
« Reply #14 on: March 20, 2006, 12:37:55 PM »
hi spinner great design. does the top run true in high wind? if you cut a circle an inch or two larger than the diameter of the wings and mounted it to the top would it run true to the shaft without flexing up or down. pepa
« Last Edit: March 20, 2006, 12:37:55 PM by pepa »