Stainless steel band

[martin1]

Does anybody know how thick it should be and also, how much shorter than the circumference of the magnet disc, should it be? I've tried to google search the board but I cannot find the answer.

[DanB]

for 12 inch diameter rotors I cut the band about 3/32 inch shorter than the circumferance.  

[DanB]

The stuff I use comes from Uline (they're a shipping supply place), its .030" thick and 3/4" wide.  It's fairly expensive by the roll - I'm not sure where you'd get just a little bit - enough for one machine.  

[martin1]

Thanks DanB that's all the numbers I need. I was thinking of asking a metal shop to cut bands from stainless sheet metal.

[DanB]

yes, its probably cheaper if you can just get them to shear off a bit from a sheet.  I did a few machines that way, it worked out fine.

[windspeed]

Do you butt the ends for welding

Windspeed

[oztules]

" I'm not sure where you'd get just a little bit - enough for one machine.  "

......... possibly from otherpower... somewhere  in a remote part of the Northern Colorado mountains, 12 miles past the nearest power pole or phone line..... perchance??

..............oztules

[vawtman]

Do you really need the banding for these things?Seems it would be better to mount the mags better.

 Just me though.

[Sly]

Hi,

What I did for mine was cut a strip off of a SS sheet 1/2" wide and ran it through a body shop roller, it is amazing how quickly it curls up! 1/2" wide based on Dan's recommendations (10' Otherpower) i.e. a 1/4" for the magnet rotor thickness + another 1/4" to go half way up the magnets. This leaves the magnet stick out by a 1/4" to maybe help with cooling.

I am not the best SS welder in town....so after a few attempts at butt welding I decided to overlap the SS band by 3/8" making the welding much easier. I positioned it exactly 180deg apart on the magnet rotors to balance thing out.

I would not be overly concerned by the thickness. Mine has been working without a problem now since November 1st. Oh by the way thanks to the Dans, their new book is great!!

Hope it helps.

sly

[ibeweagle]

might want to look at newrotor design when it gets posted cheers ibeweagle

[Bigwheel]

Hi, I don't know what you have in your area, possibly check out a metal stamping company.  We've got coils of the stuff and got mine from the scrap bin.  I didn't butt weld the pieces together.  I did an overlap weld.  I bent one side up about material thickness and back down again to make a .030 step.  Cut the circumfance down the 3/32 and layed it over.  Clamped it down and tig welded the one side.  I did it this way to keep from blowing thru when laying the bead.  I wish I had a picture I could show ya.  Another way I thought of doing it was to drill/punch a hole thru one side and lay it over and fill it back in with weld simiular to a spot weld.  Hope this helps you out.  

[jlt]

I use regular sheet metal for mine.1/2 wide for a 3/8 rotor.1/8 inch will not short out your mags. but gives plenty of shoulder to hold mags.also i use automotive windshield urethane around the mags to hold them in place.they never come loose. but they can be cut back out with a stainless knife.

[Dave B]

 No, the banding is not needed, it's a security blanket for improperly secured magnets.  The banding was created when early attempts were made to secure the magnets with cheap "Bondo" fiberglass casting. It cracked, broke apart allowed water to seep under the magnets with rust and basically created a mess and there were lost magnets at times too. Bondo is not a proper adhesive to secure magnets.

 Casting the magnets fully like is done is not necessary either if properly "glued" with an adhesive. Casting the rotors looks nice as does the band but this is just not giving up the look of the old necessary ways of doing things before the proper epoxies (like now) that are being used. Dave B.