Author Topic: Successful use of air compressor in a wind turbine  (Read 25844 times)

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Amptramp

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Successful use of air compressor in a wind turbine
« on: January 09, 2006, 10:39:33 AM »
Howdy folks,


Please forgive me if I have got something wrong, it's my first story post...


I have always wanted to try it, and have finally put a compressor into a wind turbine.


While still in it's infancy, this part of my wind turbine project is offering some encouraging results. It delivers 120 PSI of pressure, and keeps my 400 litre air tanks nicely filled :) .


My turbine is 20 feet across and is mounted on a 30 foot, all weld, steel lattice tower.

This is all home made, right down to the last grotty old weld  :) .


At the top of the tower is a diff from an 1800cc Mitsubishi Galant car. Its spider gears are welded up and this gives me a stepup of 3.5 to 1.

Power from the turbine is coupled down the tower through a drive shaft that is divided into 4 lengths, each with its own set of bearings and couplings.


At the bottom, inside the machine room, is another diff. This works in reverse and provides a stepdown ratio of 3.5 to 1. This diff drives a horizontal shaft at the same speed as the rotor at the top of the tower. Power from this shaft is coupled by chains into a 1300cc engine, taken from a front wheel drive car.

I have taken the timing gear out of the engine, and left the valves in their closed state. To use the engine as a compressor, I modified 4 spark plugs to serve as 1/4 inch BSB gas couplings.

Air enters the cylinders through a 1 way valve, and leaves through a second 1 way valve.


At present, only 2 cylinders are being used. These are coupled together through a 'Y joint', so they share the same pair of 1 way valves.


Ideally, I would have used one pair of valves per cylinder, just in case of chamber leakage.

Why only 2 cylinders?   Will, these valves are a little pricey, but I will put the other 2 cylinders into service approximately $100 from now  :) .


As this is my first attempt at making a compressor from an engine, I didn't really know what speed to run it at. Right now, it screams along at a rate of 90 to 120 RPM. Yup, she's barely moving, but the pressure is being reliably supplied to my tanks  :) .

I think I will revise the engine speed to 300 > 400 RPM. This should get around a problem that I am seeing in the present setup.


Looking back on it, I should have seen it coming.


Here's the problem:


When the pressure in the system has risen above 30 PSI, the engine begins delivering nasty kickbacks to the turbine. These become steadily more violent as the pressure rises. By the time the pressure has risen to 120 PSI, the tower is being shaken by these kickbacks.

Ultimately, this will destroy the transmission shaft, the diffs, or even the rotor!


After a bit of thought, the reason became apparent. The pressure in the cylinder is pushing the piston down, just after it passes Top Dead Centre. This causes the engine to momentarily spin faster in the same direction. The jolts delivered by this effect seem to become less noticeable when the turbine is running at high speeds. Given this, I think it's worth while to speed the whole thing up. This will increase air flow, but will place greater load on the turbine.

A flywheel is fitted to the engine, this is intended to help smooth out the bumps.


Since this has been successful, the whole thing is in bits now, as I am in the process of making up an electric clutch. This will progressively couple the engine to the turbine, so as to avoid shock loading. Under control of some simple electronics, a worm drive motor will push a pair of clutch plates together, so coupling the moving parts of the system.

This approach should offer some useful attributes. Primarily, I can isolate the compressor from the turbine when I need electricity more than compressed air. At times of high wind, I can use the compressor to fill more tanks.

My turbine has its own set of brakes. These are operated by another worm drive motor, so as to allow me to gently shut the machine down by remote control.

Eventually, all of this will be controlled by a little computer that will allow the machine to 'look after itself' :) .


To keep the engine lubed up, I simply filled 'er up with engine oil - to the point where the pistons can be heard dipping into it.

I figure that the oil will work its way up the bores, to offer protection from abrasion.

So far, this seems to be working :) .


Perhaps it is due to the low RPMs, but there seems to be no sign of heating in the engine. A small amount of heat is apparent in one of the check valves, but this never gets above 40 degrees C.

At higher RPM, this may change so I will need to keep a close watch on that.


Well folks, I hope I have made a useful post here. Looking forward to your thoughts on this.


Best wishes to all for the new year.


Steve  Mc Amptramp.

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 10:39:33 AM by (unknown) »

Amptramp

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Re: Successful air compressor in wind turbine
« Reply #1 on: January 09, 2006, 03:53:44 AM »
Hmmm, now if I can just work out how to add an image here...

It sure is better than reading text   :)  .




« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 03:53:44 AM by Amptramp »

hiker

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Re: Successful air compressor in wind turbine
« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2006, 05:13:01 AM »
nice..

whats wrong with the oil pump in the engine--to much oil in the motor will wear out the oil rings on the pistons-its the bottom ring on the piston--then you will have oil leakage past the pistons and getting into your air supply..but then again -its running at such a slow speed it might take quite awhile for that to happen-your oil pump should work at the lower rpm-if not just add some oil slingers on the end of the connecting rods[its just a little metal tab that bolts to one of the connecting rod bolts and dippes down in the oil and throws it up on the cylender as the crankshaft roatates]--less oil will mean less fricton and more rpms..

sounds like you need some bigger vavles to let the compressed air out-or some lighter springs on them to let the copressed air out earlyer[if thats how they work-springs].

and if theres any play in your couplings[u joints]-that will be amplified as it travels from joint to joint-so make it nice and snug..just my rambling thoughts..

great piece of machinery...

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 05:13:01 AM by hiker »
WILD in ALASKA

henjulfox

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Re: Successful air compressor in wind turbine
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2006, 07:37:59 AM »
Wow. Excellent set-up!


2 things leap to mind. 1) A larger flywheel to reduce the kickback. 2) It looks like 2 pullys on the back of that gearbox. Maybe add a generator to create electricity when you don't need compressed air.


-Henry

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 07:37:59 AM by henjulfox »

Norm

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Re: air compressor
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2006, 07:41:12 AM »
  What if you were to modify a variable

transmission from a snowmobile ? You could

modify it so you could operate the speed ratio

manually ?

  Course might depend on your location....here

snowmobile parts are plentiful......

    ( :>) Norm
« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 07:41:12 AM by Norm »

electrondady1

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Re: air compressor
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2006, 08:28:09 AM »
thats really slick.  if your geting the volume of air you need why fuss with the other two cylinders? unless you want to reduce the rpm.  are the two cylinders you used 180deg. opposed? did you just pull the plugs on the unused cylinders or yank the pistons and rods too? is so, how did you fill  the oil passages on the rod jurnals?
 congratulations!
« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 08:28:09 AM by electrondady1 »

wooferhound

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Re: Successful use of air compressor in a wind tur
« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2006, 10:45:34 AM »
First off: I'm really impressed with the discription of your set-up. I am enjoying the method that you use to get the power down to where you can use it. Can also work with an alternator/generator. The picture is great too, looks much simpiler than the discription. I want to see pictures of your tower and blades too, plus you method of seeking the wind direction.


I'm sure you understand that your motor will work much more smoothly when you are using all 4 cylinders, the same way the engine normaly runs smoother on four cylinders.


Many years ago I was sandblasting a smimming pool at a motel. The air pressure was being generated by an 8 cylinder engine. the four cylinders on one side of the motor were used as a normal internal combustion engine. The four cylinders on the other side were being used as the air compressor part, making very large amounts of air. Ever since then I have thought that, an engine is a natural air compressor, if you just plumb it correctly ?

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 10:45:34 AM by wooferhound »

Gordy

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Re: Successful use of air compressor in a wind tur
« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2006, 11:37:35 AM »
BACKKKKK in high school small engine class , we used 3.5 -5 hp B&S for air compressors. The teacher located some one way valves that screwed directly into the sparck plug hole, for output. For intake we just used the stock cam and valves. The problem with that was only 1 cmpression stroke in 2 revs.


One bright student got an idea from his grandfathers old hit & miss engine, no push rod for the intake valve just a lite spring to pull the valve closed. He pulled the cam and replaced both valve springs with 3-5 pounders. Yes both he wanted to maximize air intake. His worked so much better that all the kid's who built compressors the first way converted them to his style.


Gordy

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 11:37:35 AM by Gordy »

nothing to lose

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Re: Successful use of air compressor in a wind tur
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2006, 01:31:26 PM »
Very good job.


I was going to say the same thing Woofer Hound said. And a couple other things.


It's sometimes hard to get a car to run smooth on half the cylnders, probably why your getting the bumps on your compressor too. I also agree about taking out the normal valve springs and such and use lighter springs. Just let the engine suck open both the intake and exhaust valves on the down stoke to pull in air. A light spring should pull them shut and the compressed air will also hold them shut on the up stroke. You should only need 1 oneway valve then to let the air out and stop it from flowing back. I bet there are many cheap items that could be used for this very well. Perhaps a standard footvalve for water pipe? Brass valve I think was about $6 each, should hold 120psi as far as the brass case part, the valve inside I think would also but would need to be tested to be certain.  Maybe bore a spark pug out and solder/braze on a PVC valve. Just screw it into the existing hole. Or better yet put the pvc valve inside a pipe nipple that is brazed onto the sparkplug for extra strength.


If you go from each cylinder with a homemade valve and lines to the valves you already have then each cyclinders valve only has to hold back a small volume of compressed air, not the entire storage tank. Use the expensive valves you already have for stopping the back flow from the tank.


As for using the existing oil pump as mentioned. At higher rpms that might be ok. I would install a pressure type (not electric) oil presuure gauge on the engine. See if you are getting pressure at low rpms. The existing pump may work ok. Idling an engine is harder on it than driving, one of the reasons is oil pressure is not as good at low rpms.  I watch all my vehicles oil presure gauges (ones that have one) and they all have about double the pressure while driving than when idling. If not double, at least alot more anyway. Getting into real low rpms there may not be much there. But you don't need oil for cooling like when running normal, and you won't need oil to lfters and valves ect.. so lower pressure may be fine as long as you have enough for the pistons.

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 01:31:26 PM by nothing to lose »

terry5732

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Re: Successful use of air compressor in a wind tur
« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2006, 02:56:32 PM »
They used to sell a hose with a valve for filling your tires on the side of the road. You would remove one spark plug and screw it in there. Kinda slow off one cylinder but got your tired filled. I think they stopped selling them cause so many people couldn't figure out what a spark plug is these days. If you look hard enough, I bet you can still find these valves somewhere reasonably. Standard spark plug threads. My neighbor was the industrial arts teacher in junior high and his classes made MANY compressors out of old lawnmower Briggs and washing machine motors. He got the valves at the time (20 years ago) from a local small engine repair shop.

I had thought about using a compressor from an old fridge or one of the cheapy little twelve volt ones on a small mill. Wouldn't need big output- just for having air occasionally. And I bet an air cylinder cycles  for more charges than a lead-acid battery. You can use all the "obsolete" LP tanks for added storage. Use a check valve every so often between them , so if one goes they don't all.

The normal brass flappers for water use will work only for a short time. Because of the rapid cycle they wear out VERY fast. I have even seen them badly deformed from hammering even though they moved so slightly you couldn't see the movement. A reed type valve would be best - like what is used in two cycle intakes. There you go ! - gut your old Johnson outboard and you have a thirty pound valve !
« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 02:56:32 PM by terry5732 »

dudevato

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use of air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #10 on: January 09, 2006, 08:42:24 PM »
DUDE!  That is SO cool!  YOU are a mechanic, not like the man that works at the Chevy or Toyota dealership.  All he can do is turn the wrench to replace the part the computer tells him to.  I was thinking about your project's vibration.  Are the 2 cylinders you have 'working' oposite each other in the firing order of the engine?  I just looked at my '77 Toyota's firing order: 1-3-4-2.  I'm saying you wouldn't want your working cylinders to be 1&3 or 3&4 or 4&2 or 2&1   You'd want to use either: 1&4 or 3&2 "If this is Your firing order"  I also would Love to see all the pics the site lets you post.  Where are you located?  I'd drive 100 miles to see your set-up.  Again that is too cool.  I'm 60 miles north of Los Angeles.

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 08:42:24 PM by dudevato »

RP

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Re: Successful use of air compressor in a wind tur
« Reply #11 on: January 09, 2006, 10:11:39 PM »
Yes,  do everything you can to reduce the volume of air between the piston and the outgoing checkvalve.  All the dead volume before the valve is pushing back on the piston after TDC and wasting effort.


Also,  I wonder if you could make a two stage, three cylinder out of it by feeding the output of two in-phase cylinders into the inlet of one of the outphased cylinders.  This would give 2/1 compression into the last cylinder which would then raise that by ~9/1 more.

« Last Edit: January 09, 2006, 10:11:39 PM by RP »

Norm

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the correct 2 cylinders
« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2006, 06:50:36 AM »
  I was wondering which 2 cylinders you had hooked up for air for example if you had 1 and 2

if you were to try 1 and 3 or whatever so the load is ah...balanced ? Hope you get what I mean

cause I just barely do

                ( [>) Norm
« Last Edit: January 10, 2006, 06:50:36 AM by Norm »

kitno455

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Re: Successful use of air compressor in a wind tur
« Reply #13 on: January 10, 2006, 04:58:24 PM »
absolutely brilliant. comments:


  1. do you have offset in the sections of your driveshaft? if not, there is no needle precession, and the loaded needles will wear quickly.
  2. are you still using the oilpump if the camshaft is free? try to get an oil pump back...
  3. if you can work out the oil pump pickup tube, can you turn the engine on its end? that would remove the need for the lower diff.
  4. everyone else said it, but i agree, little 2 lbs valve springs to let intake suction open them.
  5. i dont know if you can find them, but in the 70's old american gas guzzlers had an add-on air injection system to reduce emissions. some of the higher pressure ones had a good one-way valve, that now is laying in the salvage yard...


excellent work. pics of the prop and tower?


allan

« Last Edit: January 10, 2006, 04:58:24 PM by kitno455 »

wind4Reg

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Re: Successful air compressor in wind turbine
« Reply #14 on: January 11, 2006, 07:37:08 AM »
Very cool. I too had often thought of using wind power to make compressed air so I am glad to see someone has actually done it.

Could you post some pics of the turbine, tower, and any others you have?

thx,

wind4Reg
« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 07:37:08 AM by wind4Reg »

Amptramp

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Re: Successful use of compressor in wind turbine
« Reply #15 on: January 11, 2006, 01:52:23 PM »
Howdy folks,


Thank you all very kindly for your replies. There are many good ideas coming back through this message thread, so it looks like I can solve many problems before they show up  :).

In the message below, I hope I have answered all of the good points that have been raised so far.


Right now, the project is in pieces all over the workshop. There are parts of it in my lathes, and other bits in the lounge. Hmmm, you guessed it - no carpets to worry about   hehehehe.

Tomorrow, I will be making up the parts for the motorised clutch assembly. This will have a lateral travel of only a couple of millimetres, just enough to separate or unite the clutch plates.

The gear motor turns very slowly, so as to allow for gentle operation of the clutch.


Now, to answer the points raised by the good folks here:


Howdy Hiker:


The engine's oil pump may still be operational but the pressure can't rise, as I have removed the rocker gear from the cylinder head - without plugging the oil passages. Presently, I am relying upon the oil being splashed onto the bores by the pistons as they hit the oil's surface at BDC.

To protect the airlines from oil and water, I have made a separator. This is the first part of the air receiver circuit - and it collects unwanted liquids before they can enter the main tanks. The separator has a drain tap at the bottom, so I can manually discharge it.

The separator is just a 1 Metre length of heavy steel pipe with a much smaller one inside. Air enters the internal pipe and escapes into the bigger one through small holes near its end. The small pipe is 900mm long, so clears the floor of the bigger pipe by 100mm. Perhaps this could be of a better design, but it seems to work well as lots of water can be seen spraying out during discharges.


Howdy Henry:


Electrical generation occurs above the compressor machine bed. There is a F&P smart drive motor in the ceiling of the machine room. This is driven by a pulley on the final bearing of the downshaft, just where it passes through the roof. The F&P motor generates up to 400VAC in star mode. The 3 phase output is fed directly to my house, some 70 metres away. At present, the output voltage is not regulated, so I have had a few 230V appliances blow up!!

Talking of blowing up, I went to check the machine a couple of weeks ago. There was smoke coming out of the machine room vents, and no power being sent to the house. I found that the motor had 'cooked' 3 of its 42 coils. These had become so hot that they burnt their formers to a crisp.

It turns out that the 400VAC was a little too much for the insulation on the copper windings. Lesson learned  :)  .

I plan to use a much heavier flywheel on the engine, and perhaps another on the clutch assembly. These should help to reduce those kickbacks, I hope.

The pullies on the output diff are being used for the compressor at present. Eventually, they will be driving a large generator on the other half of the machine bed. Right now, I am getting so much power from the F&P genny, that I often need to shut the turbine down  :)  .


Howdy Norm:


The idea of a variable transmission seems like a good one, This could be handy where the pressure in the tanks dictates the rate of engine speed. Faster for low pressure levels, and slower for high levels of tank pressure. Doing this, should make life easier for the turbine. In consideration of this idea, I pulled an automatic gearbox to bits. I found lots of really neat parts, but they aren't really suitable for this application.

I had hoped I might find a planetary gear system in there. This would have been easie to user, and would have allowed me to alter the ratios between compressor and drive system. Another idea came to mind though - as the pressure rises, simply isolate some of the cylinders from the system.

This would make it easier for the turbine to keep turning the engine, errr - compressor  ;), as the pressure neared maximum levels.

Right now, cylinders 2 and 3 are in use. These are in phase, and are working together through a single pair of check valves.

I hope to balance the load a lot better soon. By using all 4 cylinders, I ought to get a smoother running system.

A couple of days ago, I measured the displacement of a single cylinder - it works out to be just a little over one imperial mouthful  ;) .

All up, I should get 1300cc of displacement per revolution at atmospheric pressure.


Howdy Electrondady1:


The engine is essentially complete, except for the timing parts in the cylinder head. All 4 pistons are working, but only #2 and #3 are being used for air compression. Having all pistons in service seems like a good way to go, as this should smooth out the engine's motion and provide greater air quantities per revolution.

The oil paths in the engine, are still open. Oil pressure is likely to be zero. Hopefully, the bores will be protected by oil that is splashed onto them from below by the motion of the crankshaft.

I could probably test this by running the compressor for a long time with its cylinder head removed. If the bores remain oily, then all is okee donkee. If they dry up, it's back to the drawing board.


Howdy Wooferhound:


I have just been out with the camera, and taken a few shots of the tower and turbine. This is my biggest and most ambitious wind machine, so far. The view from the top, is really quite nice too  :) .

These pics show the rotor, tower top diff, downshaft and bearings, machine room, generator, liquid separator tank, air pressure gauge - and a nasty oil stain on the machine room floor - - oops!

You'll see that the working direction is fixed. It doesn't follow the wind, as the wind here is directed by the shape of the valley I live in. That's kind of lucky for me, as it makes things a bit easier.

The 20 foot dia turbine uses sails. They are of a triangular shape and are sleeved over the spars of the rotor. These sails are quite experimental, so are likely to change with time. It will be clear to the observer that these could be made to deliver far more power than they presently do, by simply altering their basic shape.

That will come later, once my greed for power gets the better of me  ;)  .

A reasonably cool thing about the sails is that the turbine always spins in the same direction, regardless of the wind direction. Due to the shape of the valley, the wind hits either the back or the front of the rotor. The sails deform forward or backward, and deliver the same level of thrust to the rotor.

The sails have been is service for 3 months, in some severe storms, and are not showing any signs of failure. Yippee  :) .


Having windmills on my mind, I find myself looking at cars and other mechanised transporters as potential supplies of windmill parts. Hehehe, just ask my little collection of dead cars, they'll tell the story  ;) .


Howdy Gordy:


Not having electricity here, I haven't had the chance to try a smaller version of the project with a B&S engine. I would like to have tried making one with an induction motor to spin a 3 to 5 HP engine. Altering the workings of the valves would have been a grand idea for improving the volume of air production, that's fer sure.

The idea of light springs on the valves in my present compressor project came to mind, but I discovered that they were not in very good order so I opted for external valving at the spark plug port. Perhaps I could have repaired the ones in the engine, but I was kind of impatient to see if it worked. External valves do have a useful advantage over internal ones, they are easier to replace when they fall over :) .


Howdy Nothingtolose:


The check valves that I have been using are a little pricey, but I like them because they are of good quality. The 'peace of mind' value of the project comes to the fore here. These valves are rated for 90 degrees C, which is important - as heating is going to be greater at higher speeds.

The jolts that are coming from the engine, are due to the small amount of high pressure air that remains in the short lines that lead to the valves. As opposed to the air in the tanks, it's actually the little bit of air between the engine and the check valve that's causing the problem.

This small volume of air is pushing the engine forward, just after passing TDC. The movement is only 1/4 rev, but is enough to generate a considerable shock wave.

I have a potential solution for this, one that is based on a set of rotary shock absorbers that ride along a length of the coupling chain.


Oil flow in the engine is likely to be non existent, as I have pulled numerous parts out. I'm presently pinning my hopes on 'splishy splashy technology', like that of standard air compressors. Only time will tell if that was a good idea.


Howdy Terry5732:


I have happy memories of those emergency tire filler valves. What a clever idea they were. Yup, these days, folks would be wondering where to stick it. "What's a spark plug?", "Don't you mean Sparklet Bulb?"  hehehe. I guess it's a lucky thing that little 12V air compressors are so cheap  :) .

A little 12V compressor pump attached to a speedy little turbine could be quite a good little runner. Being a little leaky, the turbine shouldn't have too much trouble getting it started, so it could be quite easy to build.

having a supply of compressed air is such a handy thing. LP tanks are a great storage method too. I have often filled mine up, and used it in awkward places on the farm to get a job done.

For air valves, I seem to feel that the spring loaded ones are my favourite. They are quick acting and seem to last a long time.

Now, if I gut the old Johnson outboard, I'll have to walk across the water. It works, but only when the water is frozen   hehe.


Howdy Dudevato:


I just love messing with mechanical and electrical / electronic thingies. They are endless fun, and you can make all sorts of really neat stuff of the things that other folks throw away. Ahhh, the Wombles, they had the right idea  ;) .

The 2 cylinders that I am using are 2 and 3. They are in phase, and I am using the double volume of air to charge the tanks. I could have used 1 and 4, but these are so far apart that I would become exausted by the repeated trips between them   hehe.

Eventually, I want to use all 4 cylinders. This will provide greater volumes of air, and charge the tanks faster. Ohhhh, I just love power   :) .

I'm just a little more than 100 miles away from your location. If you turn towards the South, once you get to Australia, you'll get to New Zealand. That's where this mad scientist / mechanic calls home  :) .

I hope to be putting some more pics up soon. Once I get familiar with the method of picture posting.

Each pic will have a short description with it, so as to fill in where the pic falls short.

Righto - I'm off to get the pics out of the camera. Wish me luck, this could get messy   hehehehe.


Howdy Russp:


Dead air volume in the compressor is my worst enemy at the moment. Perhaps I could modify the pistons, so as they take up almost all of the space in the cylinder head. This would surely raise the compression ratio and reduce the severity of those kickbacks that are plaguing this project.

I like the idea of turning the compressor into a two stage one. It should be quite easy to try out also. Hmmmmm, just imagine the deafening bang as my air tanks explode. Ahhh, I better add a pressure relief valve to my shopping list  :) .


Howdy Allan:


There is a little bit of offset in the sections of the driveshaft. It's not great, but is hopefully enough to keep the needles in motion.

The oil pump is probably not working any more, as I have pulled parts out of the engine - such as the rods that the rockers run on. I'm hoping that the pistons will lubricate the bores by picking up oil from the sump. I added lots of oil, so they tend to splash into it at BDC.

Hmmm, the idea of turning the engine on its end is an interesting one. Presently, I have it in the horizontal position, to make everything easier to do. The extra diff is there to feed future machinery, as yet un decided.

My initial idea was to use weak springs on the valves, so the engine could suck them open. Sadly, the valves are a bit too rough to be trusted for that purpose :( .

Those air injection devices sound pretty neat. It's just a pity that great stuff like that gets thrown away. Oh, if only people could realise that we are all driving 'perfectly good air compressors' that are disguised as cars   ;) .


Howdy Wind4reg:


The air compressor project has been rummaging around in my mind for a long time. Finally, it has had a chance to come out of my head  :) . Since I don't have electricity here, my diesel generator has to provide the power for the compressor. It's heavy work, and the compressor gets hot when used for extended periods.

Now that I have a way of storing wind in a bottle, my diesel genny can have a well earned rest  :) .

« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 01:52:23 PM by Amptramp »

Amptramp

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Re: Successful use of compressor in wind turbine
« Reply #16 on: January 11, 2006, 01:59:17 PM »
Right-o, now that I have become a little more familiar with picture posting, here be a little herd of photos to show what this little monster looks like  :) .


The first pic shows a small collection of my turbines. The smallest is 600mm dia and the biggest of the small ones is 1800mm dia. They are made from Aluminium tube that is cut to form a simple wing. They spin at high speeds and are wonderfully reliable members of my little herd  :) .



« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 01:59:17 PM by Amptramp »

Amptramp

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Re: Successful air compressor in wind turbine
« Reply #17 on: January 11, 2006, 02:02:15 PM »
This is my biggest turbine. The whole thing is experimental, right down to the tower.

It's all home built, as is the welder that I used to build it.


The turbine is 20 feet in dia and turns at 60 to 90 RPM.

« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:02:15 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #18 on: January 11, 2006, 02:05:48 PM »
There is a crane on the tower top. This rotates through 360 degrees, and automatically locks in the position shown in the photo.

It's desireable to have it lock this way, as it would otherwise foul with the turbine.

This crane is strong enough to lift all of the machine parts to the top of the tower.

Ohhh, it makes life so much easier  :)  .



« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:05:48 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #19 on: January 11, 2006, 02:10:01 PM »
The turbine is driven by simple triangular sails. These were sewn up on a normal sewing machine, powered by my other windmills  :) .


They tend to flap around, when the turbine is going at high speeds. This makes an odd sound, and is likely to be bad for the rotor frame.

A simple solution is in progress for this. It comprises flexible plastic sheets integrated with the sail material. This will stiffen the trailing edges, so they don't oscillate, I hope!!

« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:10:01 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #20 on: January 11, 2006, 02:13:08 PM »
A diff from an 1800cc Mitsy Galant car is the carrier for the turbine. This has a nice, shiny, set of brakes fitted.

These brakes are operated from the machine room, by a worm drive motor. Automatic operation of the brakes is made possible this way.



« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:13:08 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #21 on: January 11, 2006, 02:16:49 PM »
The downshaft is divided into 4 sections, so as to avoid the 'whipping effect'.

Each section is coupled through a universal joint and supported by a captive bearing.


This arrangement could allow for the placement of machinery at these locations.


There is a small mezzanine floor at each of these locations. This provides a safe climbing environment and also offers weather protection for those bearings.




« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:16:49 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #22 on: January 11, 2006, 02:19:35 PM »
In the machine shed, we can see the liquids separator tank and the air control panel.


This arrangement offers me the ability to clear water from the system. A lot of water can be safely stored before it gets a chance to enter the main air lines.



« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:19:35 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #23 on: January 11, 2006, 02:24:59 PM »
Oops, I seem to have 'double pictured' the previous post. Really, there is only one big windmill here  ;)


In this picture, we see the air control panel. It manages the output from the compressor, supplies air to the machine room through a regulator, feeds air to the house and allows for manual isolation of the various tanks.




« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:24:59 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air acompressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #24 on: January 11, 2006, 02:31:26 PM »
A generator is mounted in the ceiling of the machine room. This is driven by the down shaft, at the point where is passes through the roof.

This is belt driven and operates at a speed that is 4 times greater than that of the downshaft.


500 to 600 watts is typical from this 3 phase setup.


Voltages up to 400VAC is fed directly from this to the house, some 70 metres away.



« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:31:26 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #25 on: January 11, 2006, 02:35:26 PM »
The generator has its own simple tensioner system.

Belt replacement is fairly easy this way. It turns out that the belt does not have to be very tight, as it tends to bind nicely with the pullies during rotation.




« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:35:26 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #26 on: January 11, 2006, 02:39:27 PM »
An electric motor is used to operate the brakes at the tower top. This is a worm drive motor which allows for slow and torqy rotation. Another good thing about the worm drive is that it holds its position when not powered up.


Being electric, the brakes can now be operated through a 'smart system', such as a computer that responds to vibration sensors.

« Last Edit: January 11, 2006, 02:39:27 PM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #27 on: January 12, 2006, 01:49:42 AM »
The compressor project is in bits right now, as I am in the process of adding a motorised clutch, and completing the machine bed.


One half of the machine bed is taken up by the compressor, and the other half is open for placement of a large generator.

When completed, the machine bed will be returned to the machine room where it will be bolted to the floor.

« Last Edit: January 12, 2006, 01:49:42 AM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #28 on: January 12, 2006, 01:52:03 AM »
The diff is fitted to the machine bed. Its output is coupled to a 25mm dia shaft that feeds sprockets and pullies.

A cover is placed over the diff's other axle shaft socket. Since the other shaft is not used, I removed it for safety reasons.

This arrangement provides a stepdown ratio of 3.5 to 1.



« Last Edit: January 12, 2006, 01:52:03 AM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #29 on: January 12, 2006, 01:53:51 AM »
The first tests on the compressor were done with pushbike sprockets. These are cheap, and easy to get, so are a good choice for short term testing.

A bearing is mounted at the rear end of the shaft, to ensure that everything is well supported during the stresses of normal operation.



« Last Edit: January 12, 2006, 01:53:51 AM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #30 on: January 12, 2006, 01:55:30 AM »
The engine,,,, errrr,,, compressor,, is mounted on its half of the machine frame. A bearing needs to be mounted on the shaft that emerges from the engine's output end.

Sprockets and a heavy flywheel will be mounted on this shaft, so as to reliably drive the compressor.



« Last Edit: January 12, 2006, 01:55:30 AM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #31 on: January 12, 2006, 01:58:18 AM »
To receive the thrust from the clutch assembly, this 'ex triumph 2000 wheel bearing' will do nicely.

The home made clutch pressure plate is mounted at the left side, and a large sprocket will be placed upon the right side.

A support frame will be attached to the bearing cage of this assembly.

This, and the other clutch parts will be placed between the compressor and the diff.

« Last Edit: January 12, 2006, 01:58:18 AM by Amptramp »

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Re: Successful air compressor in a wind turbine
« Reply #32 on: January 12, 2006, 02:00:31 AM »
Here is the AmpTramp. I built this in 2001. She weighs over a tonne and provides all of the power I could possibly need for the biggest of industial tasks here on the farm.

She's powered by an 1800cc Diesel compressor - ooops - engine, and is controlled by a homemade computer that fully automates the whole thing.

It provides 240amps of welding current, at 100% duty. 6000 Watts of 230 VAC is available at all times and a steady supply of 120 PSI air is generated on board.

Since the machine is so heavy, my truck has trouble towing it, so I added an electric locomotion drive. It speeds along at 5 KPH and can tow an extra 1 tonne trailer.

It can go virtually anywhere, and is mighty handy for dragging bits of windmill around the farm  :) .

 

« Last Edit: January 12, 2006, 02:00:31 AM by Amptramp »