propane refridgerator help

[greenkarson]

at my off the grid cabin i have a old DOMETIC propane refrigerator.  It came out of an old R.V.  Hooked it all up and the freezer works great but no luck with the lower fridge part.  Then i noticed the little slider that adjusts the fridge temp on the Finns inside the fridge is missing.  pretty sure that's my problem anyone know how they work? from what i can see there is 2 lines one from the propane valve and one for the electric valve (I'm only using propane) some how the slider moved up and down to adjust the temp. anybody know how to Jerry rig this to work? what actually happen with the slider to adjust the temp?


thanks karson

[kurt]

http://rvmobile.com/  i found this website helpful long time ago when working on one perhaps it will help you.

[ghurd]

I don't know how that one works, but most I ever used pretty much did not react very quickly in the fridge part.
The freezer would get some frost built up fairly soon, but the fridge would be warm temperature for a Long time.
We leaned to put cold stuff in it if possible (like when spending a day or 2 camping), because filling it with warm soda resulted in slightly less warm soda a day later.

I kind of have a feeling the freezer gets cold, and the cold sort of works its way down into the fridge.
Might have to run it a whole day to get things evened out.

Not sure what you mean by a "slider".
This may be helpful?
http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/trouble/ComboTstatRR.htm

G-

("you can reach Dometic for parts and service at 574-294-2511")

[Basil]

RV type.
You may have to burp it.
That is trun it over let it set a day. Shake good. set it back up and try it.
Sometimes you have mix the gas's in it if it sets a long time.
They also take a day at the least to get cold/ cold.

[greenkarson]

found something in your links about a capillary tube that runs to the finns in the lower fridge. thats the line i was talking about.  But the site never mentioned anything about the sliding temp adjuster.  somehow it slides on the capillary tube and adjusts the temp.  i'v seen it on every R.V fridge I'v came across .  the track is still in the fridge that it slid on and the two capillary tube run up the track.  I'm assuming one is the electric capillary and one is the gas. Just can't figger out how it effects the capillary to adjust the temp.

[ghurd]

"Just can't figger out how it effects the capillary to adjust the temp."

It looks like the 'slider' is actually a mechanical adjustment?
Similar to putting a small wedge in a large gap?
Or moving contact's closer together?

Might look for holes that line up with the slider, and see what is on the other side of the holes.

I have not fired mine up for like 10 years.
I hope it doesn't mean I have to tip over the camper and shake it!   
G-

[Volvo farmer]

I don't think there's any sort of sliding temperature adjustment on capillary tubes on Dometic refrigerators.

The capillary tube goes down to a gas valve that makes the flame bigger or smaller based on the temperature inside the refrigerator. There is usually a knob also attached to this valve that also regulates at which temperature the flame gets bigger or smaller.  The capillary tube should be securely attached to the fins, no sliding about it.

If the refrigerator isn't pretty dead level, it won't work right.  Also high ambient temperatures (90F+) or lack of airflow to the rear coils can make it cool poorly.

[Basil]

Hey Glen
before you flip your camper over.
Just letting you know mine in my hunting camper is an ammonia, Gas or Electric.
When I first got it the freg would not work. I had to burp it.
Worked great after that. But it's been years since I used it.
On a week end trip it would get cold enough to use when you was getting ready to leave.
Cooler with ice was faster and colder.

[ghurd]

Cooler with ice was faster and colder.

People with a lot more experience than me told me to freeze the ice cube trays at home, and put them in the RV fridge when I fired it up.
That helped a LOT.

Turning my old camper over and shaking it violently would cause no monetary damage.
G-

[T3rranc3_3]

Then i noticed the little slider that adjusts the fridge temp on the Finns inside the fridge is missing.

thanks karson

The slider of the fridge temperature is exactly the problem. If you want to repair it, visit the instructables site. There tutorial has been tested and proven in which you can do it with your own easily.

My Sports Center
Sports Appliances

Commercial/off-topic URL removed.  DO NOT POST SUCH URLs here at least until you have established your bona fides please

[bj]

Had to fight with my Dometic a couple of years ago, fried control module was the culprit.  Mine, (93 model) does not have a slider.
The fridge temp is dictated by the freezer temp.
It simply fires up more often to run colder.  Flame is fixed by an orifice.  Never use the AC mode.
I found for the first fire-up of the season, level is critical.  After that, (every couple of weeks) it is more forgiving.
I went to the Dometic site, got the manual, and the name of a close dealer.  They had the parts I needed on the shelf.
Parts were not cheap, $400, but better than the price of a new fridge, and tearing half of the trailer apart.
I will have to try the ice-cube trick.

[Volvo farmer]

For anyone looking for control boards for Dometic or Norcold refrigerators, I recommend a company called Dinosaur Electronics.  They have wonderful phone support, the boards are superior to the factory ones at about half the price, and they come with a three year warranty.

[XeonPony]

rip it all out and use an oil lamp!  They run of heat and don't care where the heat comes from, mind you tad more manual labour involved!

For those wishing to learn more look up "Absorption coolers" they all work the same way more or less.

[WindriderNM]

I just bought a fan that attaches to the coils it uses very little power. It should help on hot days.

[ruddycrazy]

Well my $2.5K propane fridge is now spending it's life as a home brew cupboard as the dirty gas we get here and pay a small fortune for, has this sticky crap that killed the regulator and $600 for a new one was out of the question. Instead we went 24 volt DC fridge/ freezer using my old batterybank and haven't looked back.