Author Topic: walmart & sams club batteries  (Read 23007 times)

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ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #33 on: August 23, 2012, 10:31:37 PM »
I am going to have to go back to the out back site and or manul and refreash on the outback inverter.  I was under the assumption that I really didn't have to match the loads in the sub-panel to have an all or nothing situation.  I thought if you were making 100 watts above charge rate, that it would seemlessly feed you 100 watts and grid 400 watts to a 500 watt load and still be charging your batts at the charge rate you set.

Ah OK.  Now we're getting to the nitty gritty of the deal.  The Outback will only do that if it's feeding back to the grid, which you can't do.

Your loads have to be standalone - powered only by the inverter.  This means pulling circuits out of your main and putting them into a subpanel that you want to put on inverter power.  The grid goes to the AC input on the inverter and you use battery backup mode (or whatever they call it in the Mate).  Either the inverter powers those loads, or if the voltage drops to the set point its internal transfer switch flips them to grid power.

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You are the windturbine guru.  Will I get anything in a zone 2 wind area in the winter?  two eight footers.

There's many variables there, especially local variables like obstructions causing turbulence and tower height.  Zone 2 has potential 270 watts output from a 8 foot turbine, which is 2,300 kWh/year.  But that's at 50 meter height and chances are your actual output is only going to be roughly 1/10th of that on a 60 or 70 foot tower.  So I would guess ~250 kWh/year from each one, to use a nice round number.
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bob g

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #34 on: August 23, 2012, 10:59:11 PM »
lets recap

you have about 9kw/hrs of power production off of solar per day?

and you use something over 25kw/hrs per day?

it looks to me like you can use every ounce of your production and have no need for battery storage, save for maybe a small bank to buffer with?

the bank might be a bit larger than what it might take to buffer "if" you know how much you will be using at night and use the daylight to charge for nighttime use?

i don't see anyway you need 20 plus batteries

unless i am missing something.

if you have 20 batteries, it appears to me you are just going to be exercising them, rather than using the solar power to drive the load more directly with a buffer bank.

now if you had perhaps twice or better three times the solar capability, then maybe the batteries could be used to good effect.

i just don't see how the heck you are ever going to get there in this manner,, at this point it makes more sense to just buy the power from the power company.

this all assumes your needs don't include supplying a power outage, which as you say you have generators and probably wouldn't use them anyway.. favoring doing without power?

if i were to advise on a system for your application i would suggest the following

1. reduce the need, conservation is key, if you can.
2. add more solar if you can
3. schedule your loads to take advantage of the sunshine.

if you can't do any of that, and want to work with what you have.

1. buy enough batteries to put together 48volts in a single string, that being 8 six volt batteries, i would use them as a buffer during the day
and to provide small amount of power at night...

2. set the inverters to use ever ounce possible to power the loads directly, taking only enough to recharge the buffer bank.

otherwise all you will be doing is filling and draining the batteries each day, solar input-battery charging--battery-- inverter-- loads... which has
at least one level of conversion without any benefit only losses.

 if you decide to use what you have and go with a 20 plus battery bank you are only going to increase those losses without getting any added benefit,, other than possibly covering a load in a power outage.

also large banks can be a pain in the ass to keep up with, many interconnects to clean, lots of watering to do, specific gravity to maintain, logging, etc. "and" when they get out of whack, and they will, you will have a major headache getting them back in shape!

or you will suffer losses of your investment in a set of batteries  that will die out long before you would like them to.

i would strongly suggest you give my method a try first, far better to kill 8 batteries than 20 plus! 

if after you get a handle on your system, and decide you can handle a larger bank, then add another 8 batteries and make it your B set, then alternate between  A and B sets..

i know this is in opposition to what Chris recommends, and i mean no disrespect, i may be missing something and he might be right, or visa versa? 

good luck
bob g

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large frame automotive alternators for high output/high efficiency project X alternator for 24, 48 and higher voltages, and related cogen components.
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gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #35 on: August 23, 2012, 11:03:56 PM »
Chris
Sooo,  I knew about the switching loads to sub panel.  I did read most everything on the forum dealing with grid tie.  Need to go back to site  and read up on hbx mode.  I think that what its called.  Is it harder on the batts to go down to 20% and cycle more often or go to 40% and cycle less?  looks like I'm back to 24 batts.

At this point and time I'm at 1- 40' lattice tower  That I will have to put a 5' yaw mount on, still working on more towers.  I am in a fairly high area for my county.  I also can't make myself cut my yard trees but at the rate they are dieing or I'm killing them the turbines will probly win in the end.

Thanks
gww

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #36 on: August 23, 2012, 11:25:39 PM »
i know this is in opposition to what Chris recommends, and i mean no disrespect, i may be missing something and he might be right, or visa versa?

Bob - no disagreement at all here.  It looks to me like gww has a 3.4 kW solar array.  That's a damn nice solar array in anybody's book.  I believe he has the charging capacity to have a 30 kW bank for at least 5 months of the year.

The big question is, does he want to do that?  That's a good sized bank - approaching what most off-grid people are going to have, and it could supply 12 kWh, fully charged, to run his loads with no incoming RE power at all.

On the other hand, reducing the number of batteries to 16 or 8 is merely going to cut the potential output from his solar array - unless he can come up with a way to keep the inverters loaded to use it.  Otherwise the charge controller will merely cut the panel output back and that nice array goes to waste, compared to what he could get out of it on a good day.

There are ways to load the inverters using a small bank for a buffer - electric water heating is one way I can think of, and there's probably other ways too.  That's a decision he would have to make.

gww -
You will get more years from the batteries by only discharging them to 80% SOC.  But that doesn't use the battery to its full capability.  I like 50% better because the 20% creme off the top amounts to very little actual power, and you'd have to truly baby them to never cycle them below 80% SOC.  The total amount of energy you'll store and get out of them is not going to be all that different at 80% vs 50%.  Just that lightly cycling them will give you smaller amounts over more time, and cycling deeper will give you greater amounts over less lifetime.

One way to kill a deep cycle battery is to put it on lifetime float.  The electrolyte will stratify and cause irreversible damage to the plates.  That's why the stores can sell so many boat batteries - they sit around most of the year and they die an early death.  You buy batteries to work 'em, not baby 'em.  And you can work the snot out of them if you take care of them and feed them properly.
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ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #37 on: August 23, 2012, 11:46:55 PM »
At this point and time I'm at 1- 40' lattice tower  That I will have to put a 5' yaw mount on, still working on more towers.  I am in a fairly high area for my county.  I also can't make myself cut my yard trees but at the rate they are dieing or I'm killing them the turbines will probly win in the end.

When it comes to wind turbines and towers, height is better.  It's really hard to get out of the zone that has ground induced "roll" or turbulence below 60 feet.  I used to think that just because we live in a flat area here where the wind hurries thru to get to something that can slow it down that I didn't need tall towers.  I had them on 40 and 50 foot towers.  When I put up my first 70 footer the output of the same turbine that was on a 39 foot tower with a 5 foot mast over doubled.

A wind turbine needs clean laminar flow wind in order for it work right.  There are few places where you will get that below 60 feet above ground.

Missouri is a place with gently rolling hills and lots of farmland in certain areas.  That is bad for wind power.  The daytime heating on farm fields causing thermals that the eagles and hawks ride on cause turbulence, even at 100-150 feet.  That is why some times the turbine can run all day and make 3 kWh, then the sun goes down and it doesn't look like it's putting out any more watts than it was peaking at during the day, but it puts out 6 kWh overnight at the same average wind speed.  That's also the reason most turbines perform better in the winter - the daytime heating/thermals and turbulence is reduced in winter.
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gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #38 on: August 24, 2012, 12:10:04 AM »
Bob G
That exactly what I was going to do when I was going to be grid tied.  I was even regreting the outback due to needing batteries at all.  Now the outback will probly save me as the elect company does't like homemade.  I'm not even sure I like homade but at least I didn't go batty during last winter due to boredom.  I do like the homemade turbins though.  solars cheep enough to buy now.  I don't know anyone who uses solar or wind.

I would love the power during an outage we just don't have many and I don't want to spend money on this.

I don't have any practical exsereance using any of this stuff.  I can't even conserve (besides maby changing apliances) as I'm not on location of my home due to work.  I'm doing what I can from here to get ready for there.  I did live there for 17 years and didn't do much.  My winter electric bill is $70 winter and $240 for three months of the summer.  A thousand here and a thousand there add up pretty quick.  It was pay as you go though and now that I got it I would like to pay the least and get the most.  Still got to do racks, towers and wiring. 

I keep forgeting the 20% charge loss which was what made grid tie so enticing in the first place.  I wan't as few batts as I can get by with without deminishing returns.  lose watts from the batts or the panels versus replacement cost.  If I was smart I would do some kind of solar heating and hot water as my propane bill is currently over $400 a month at 55 degrees sitting empty.

I never cared about this stuff till I got a little time and started trying to build wind tubines out of junk.  just sort of got hooked.  I guess I will have to stare at my meter in indiana and try and see if my daytime loads come up to around 3000w an hour and if I'm with in 20% of it regular I will just get a small bank and keep the batteries in float.  Except airconditioning season I wouldn't think so but I don,t know.  Your comment that it is cheaper to use the grid then what I'm doing is one I agree with.  It may be even with what I still have to pay to get it all going not counting what I have already spent.  I hope not but have no real referance to contest it.  I feel I will spend more on the stuff I havent done then what I have.

anyway I thank you for you responce, am trying to digest it and hope to hear more.
gww


gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #39 on: August 24, 2012, 12:30:38 AM »
Chris
Thats what I have now.  $150 bucks before concreet. He figured that was scrap price.  My other uncle has the other 200' of this same tower but I havent cut a deal with him yet if I even want to.  he also has some bigger pipe.  He told my other uncle that it was worth $200 per 20' section.  I just dont know.  I'll be looking through their stuff and will finely decide how i want to handle it.  double the power is good but doubling 50 watts to a hundred might still be costly.  I'm still studying.  lots of concreete or guy wires and ease of acsess.  I don''t know.  may try both and see what I like.  sorry if my post are late.  It takes me so long to type it that I just can't bare to read if someone gave my answer and not post.  I get things out of line but oh well.
Thanks I think I'm learning.
gww

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #40 on: August 24, 2012, 12:36:20 AM »
double the power is good but doubling 50 watts to a hundred might still be costly.

gww, incidentally you hit the nail on the head when it comes to small turbines.  The tower is the major cost of the machine.  With little turbines it's cheaper to just put up two of them on economical short towers than it is to put one on an expensive tall tower.  In order to justify the expense of a 80 or 90 foot tower, it has to have a fairly high performing turbine on it.

There's one thing that takes no calculations to figure out - if you have one turbine on a 40 foot tower and it develops 250 kWh/year, put two of them on 40 foot towers and you'll get 500.
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gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #41 on: August 24, 2012, 12:53:58 AM »
Chris
Thanks again.  I guess its time for bed tonight. Its hard to quit as it has been very interesting.
gww

bob g

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #42 on: August 24, 2012, 05:09:18 AM »
onward with the counterpoint

ok, i guess i missed the 3.4kw solar setup, however i thought i read he figured to get 9kw/hrs per day?  iirc , this is probably right for an average and maybe that over what? 5 hours per day sunlight?

i understand that i neglected to account for the fact that the hours of incoming power might out generate his hourly needs for that power and as such he needs to have some place to go with it.

it would appear that he cannot conserve, because he is not living there, this tells me that once he is there the hourly useage is likely to go up during the daylight hours, or most certainly could be made to do so via the use of things like washing machine, food prep, entertainment, cleaning etc.

i am betting that if his daily consumption is 25 plus kw/hrs that during the peak hours of the day, he is likely to consume the better part of 2kw per hour, leaving very little to charge a big bank of batteries reliably.  and as we all know being able to recharge reliably is more important than covering most loads for most people that are trying to get the most out of their battery banks.

i am still of the opinion, start with a small buffer A bank, and then later as you get your head around just what  you have to work with then, buy the B bank....remember the B bank could be another 8 batteries, 16 or whatever multiple you want... if the B battery is then sized to do the job, the A battery could be put in float for emergency work, and only used periodically to keep it from stratifying.

going with a dump load to make hot water makes infinitely more sense in such a system than does buying more batteries, at least to me... we all use domestic hot water and the vast majority will need to pay for that heating... as Chris states electric heating is very efficient, much more so than taking the hard won solar power, controlling it (with its attended losses) charging batteries (more losses), powering an inverter(more losses) to power the load (which has more losses than heating water directly)

if it were me, i would take a hard look at my loads, and determine which are most efficient to power with the proposed system,
things like deep well pumps might well be out of the question and better served by grid power, if only because of the large surge current requirement and the fact the need is very intermittent and short duration. same would go for things like electric cooking appliances, shop equipment like welders and compressors, and other power tools.

removing these loads, leaves us generally with other heavy loads such as airconditioners, electric dryers etc that take a large amount of current, usually 220-240vac and run for extended periods of the day, at least during some portion of the year... these loads too might be better served by the grid, no real sense in sizing a system to cover them especially when talking about the airconditioning system where the need is probably not much more than 1/3 of the year.

now what are we down too?  things like refridgeration, lighting, the washing machine, tv, stereo, small appliances in the kitchen, microwave, (ok, its late and i am drawing a blank on other loads).

of these loads generally speaking about half of them are either are used or can be used exclusively during the daylight hours. this leaves us with a handful of reasonable loads to power over the course of a 24hour period.. things like lights, refrigeration, and entertainment come to mind.. these also are the loads most likely to be in use after the sun goes past the panels each day.

just spitballing here, can't sleep, so i am working on getting my head around this question.

i think long before i spent a substantial amount of money on a big battery bank, i would want to prove beyond a reasonable doubt that i really had the excess capacity available to maintain them properly, further i would want to have a very intimate knowledge of my real needs once i lived there full time. i would want to chart my load usage over the 24 hr day, and my power production over the year, 

at this point suggesting a large bank just seems like putting the cart before the horse, especially given this is not an offgrid application.

being ongrid means effectively having an extremely large battery bank and inverter system that delivers power at a bargain price compared to what is proposed. if one has this option he might as well exploit it to its best use, this allows one to develop a very efficient alternate system that will compete favorably with the utility company if the loads to be driven are chosen carefully after having monitored them long enough to know which are best supplied by an alternate system.

gww will do as he feels is best for him, the operative word here is "feels".  what feels right often is not right, most especially for those that don't have a very good understanding of the subject at hand.  i mean no slight to gww in this regard!  its a very rare person that knows enough about a subject that is not part of his vocation, to be able to make decisions on instinct (feelings) that turn out to work anywhere near what is hoped.

this is why i suggest moving forward with some level of caution, after all he is going to soon retire, and as such likely will need to get the most out of each and every dollar spent. i guess i want no part in suggesting something that i am not very very sure is going to work, and work well...

from my perspective, what harm will be if i am wrong?  he ends up not utilizing some part of the pv power available to him... this is fine as it really does not cost him anything, he has already bought the panels and their lifespan is largely unaffected if they are not fully utilized. the buffer batteries however would be fully utilized, up to the maximum extent that he allows them to be used... so he is out nothing save for lost opportunity which is hard to quantify in dollars just yet.

while he is losing out on opportunity, he has time then to get up close and personal with his real needs and also the real charging capability he has... armed with this info he can then make a good decision as to when and how many extra batteries he might like to buy...

while it might be argued that battery prices are going up everyday, the very real likelihood is that depreciation of a large bank during the same time frame will be more in real dollars than what the eventual price difference might be..

just thinking out loud here

bob g
research and development of a S195 changfa based trigenerator, modified
large frame automotive alternators for high output/high efficiency project X alternator for 24, 48 and higher voltages, and related cogen components.
www.microcogen.info and a SOMRAD member

gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #43 on: August 24, 2012, 09:12:16 AM »
Bob G
I thank you for your imput.  I was originally going to put the inverter out in my detatched building, not use the sub panel, small batt bank and get what I got through the grid.  No wiring cost and good battery storage for minimal bank.  Just enough to run the inverter.  Now I have to consider that my main panel is in the house therefor my inverter probly needs to be close.  I put up a rack for solar with 2x4 treated lumber in indiana that works fine for two or three years but will never do.  I'm building a gurd controller that the controller took half a day to build but wireing the dump load has taken me two days.  I have been working a ton of overtime (something I never did before) to afford this.  I got three batteries hooked to a twelve volt tubine and it took most of a day to gether and put it together.  I always over estimate my abilitie to get things done and it takes about 3 times as long to finish everything I do.

I mention this to give creedence to your position.  The work I still have to do actually scares me alittle due to knowing myself. I've been at this and nothing else for a couple years as I got hooked.  I'm going to do my best to stay hooked untill I get it installed.  There is a 6 acre lake within four wheel distance of my house though.  Iv'e spent right at about $6000 so far and will probly have top spend more then that to get it going.  Will I have much to show for it?  I don't know.

I know the above is kind of a rant that doen't really adress your post.  sorry.  You are right' I have plenty to learn when I actually get home.  I have to start some where.  There are two things involved now in my consideration.  One,  I will be working more overtime for the next year because it might get me out of work a month early.  So nothing is in the way for purchassing batteries, with in reason, now.  Saving the money for later is the smartest but I've pretty well given up to this.  I don't know about when I get to a 60% income level.  Two when I get it all together I might get side tracked and not take very good care of them.  hope not.  As you can see these points don't go well together therefor my quandry on what to do.  Three adding more panels to make it work is not compleetly out of the question if I pay attention although it would mean purchasing anouther $500 charge controller.  Everything affects something else.  I like fewer batteries as it is fewer things to go wrong for a slob.  I keep coming back to 16 batts as a middle of the road start?  I will need to study loads but I don't want the stuff setting in my garage while I do it as I might get sidetracked and never do it.  What to start with in the sub panel will be anouther brain teaser as you mention.  You are right about a 8 battery starter kit to learn with. 16 or 24 will be easyer to plan the money for now.  If I ruin them 8 is better.  Gee wiz I need more coffee.
Thank you Bob G
gww

Chris
I also have a fisher and pykel motor that I will find a place for' 48volt.  I have a twelve volt hugh build that should be 24 volt but I'm going to widen the air gap and a leason motor.  I'm just using these for a battery charging station for lawn mower trolling motor ect.  Things that sit alot without charge.  Doesn't really pertain but thought you might find interesting even if it makes me look stupid messing around with stuff I can't really use. 

Where can I read up on checking electroligth levels and spicefic gravity?  What equiptment do I need?
Thanks
Gww
« Last Edit: August 24, 2012, 12:37:22 PM by gww »

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #44 on: August 24, 2012, 09:48:48 PM »
i am betting that if his daily consumption is 25 plus kw/hrs that during the peak hours of the day, he is likely to consume the better part of 2kw per hour, leaving very little to charge a big bank of batteries reliably.

gww never has to worry about reliably charging a battery bank because he has grid power and can switch back to grid power to let the RE system "catch up".  So I don't see that as an issue.  The biggest question is how much off-grid reserve is needed for power outages, and to keep the solar panels busy to get the most out of them.

Like I said earlier this is different than off-grid and I can only use my experience with off-grid systems and try to apply it with some common sense as to how I would set up such a thing.

Off-grid is never a cut and dried science either.  We have had a poor week in general here - we have been using around 20 kWh/day and our system has not been putting out enough power all week to keep up with loads.  This morning our battery bank was down to 23.8 volts and hovering around the two-hour start timer for the generator.  But then the sun came up, the wind started blowing and we got 12.1 kWh from the solar array and 28.6 kWh from the wind turbines from sunup to sundown - and it caught the bank up and the batteries were floating by 4:00 this afternoon.

The point is, when you live off-grid and your system can produce, on average, 20% more kWh than you use in loads powered the inverters, it will keep up over the long run.  But it won't do it without having a adequately sized battery bank to get you thru the "lean" periods.
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bob g

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #45 on: August 24, 2012, 10:50:15 PM »
before i go any further, i would like to preface my future remarks

this is not about me being right!  quite frankly my hope is if you adopt Chris' recommendation it turns out right for you,, it would be much easier for me if Chris is right...

what i don't understand is the project seems to be morphing to support the recommendation rather than morphing  the recommendation and  adhering to the original plan.

gww, stated earlier that he did not need back up power for when the power was down, so why build and size a system based on this criteria?

secondly, why would one size a battery bank to cover a possible power outage in the first place?  the frequency of power outages is fairly rare in most places, 

why size a battery bank such that if you are short in charging capacity you fall back on the grid for charging? 

seriously i am trying hard to get my head around this thing, and try as i might it is very hard to do with a moving target, while standing on a moving gun mount. 

it doesn't make sense to put in a large battery bank if the only need is to cover an extended power outage, considering efficiencies involved, first cost of the larger battery bank,  the depreciation of that bank, along with added maintenance issues, and the need for more of his solar capacity needed to divert to charging those batteries, or using the grid to charge them,,, in the end it will almost always be more economical to just start the generator to provide power during those outages of the grid.

i understand that Chris is coming from an offgrid viewpoint, and he makes valid points, that for the most part i find no fault with... however

again a bit more preface

last i checked i am a member in good standing with this forum now for going on 10 years, and as such i feel that i would be doing a fellow member a huge disservice to not speak up and to question a position most especially if that member was near retirement and a fixed income. it would not seem right for me to simply sit back because arguing a position is difficult and trying, or that i fear in the end i might be proven wrong...  i would rather be proven wrong than not ask questions and argue a position and allow someone i care about to maybe make a mistake that ends up costing money that is going to be hard to replace as soon as retirement comes.

 i don't know if that makes sense or not, it does however makes sense to me....

 i would expect someone here to step up and say "bob you are full of crap" or "bob i think you are making a mistake" and perhaps make me aware  of something i haven't thought of, before i go out a buy a bunch of anything that costs me a substantial amount of money.

back to topic, the thing is i am concerned about the cash outlay for 24 batteries, and the proposed system,  because at best it is likely that they will be good for not much more than 900cycles, that is about 2.5 years under the best of circumstances and care... the likelihood is very high that the reality will be somewhat less, and there is a very real possibility that the bank will start to decline seriously in a year or so. this decline also must be factored, in that a declining bank is less efficient, will require more frequent watering and attention, and will leave less of the generation capacity to do real work.

i hope this is taken in the spirit it is given, and i hope i am proven wrong! 

best of luck with the system.

bob g
research and development of a S195 changfa based trigenerator, modified
large frame automotive alternators for high output/high efficiency project X alternator for 24, 48 and higher voltages, and related cogen components.
www.microcogen.info and a SOMRAD member

gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #46 on: August 24, 2012, 10:56:12 PM »
If a person had a weak string of batteries say that was older then a newer string, my understanding is the weak batterys gain voltage faster causing the new string to be under charged.  I have seen post of people equilizing numerous times to bring batteries back to life.  In the above situation, if the imbalance is small, would it be crazy to raise the charge voltage slightly to protect the new batteries over the old?
Thanks
gww

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #47 on: August 24, 2012, 11:51:03 PM »
this is not about me being right!  quite frankly my hope is if you adopt Chris' recommendation it turns out right for you,, it would be much easier for me if Chris is right...

I don't see it as having anything to do with anybody being right.  I'm merely conveying my experiences with off-grid systems so that gww can consider the information and make a decision on what will work best for him.

As an example, here's a real-life experience with this -
I mentioned that our system got caught up today.  Tonight all four of my wind turbines are spinning up there in the dark putting out 1,000-1,300 watts (combined).  I'll get roughly 12 kWh from 8:00 tonight to 8:00 in the morning from those wind turbines.  That will maintain the bank overnight above rebulk voltage.

Tomorrow, hopefully I'll get another 12 kWh from the wind turbines during the day, which will continue to maintain the bank and carry our loads.  Hopefully I'll get another 12 kWh from the solar tomorrow which will supply me with 34,000 BTU (with losses figured in) that can go into the water heaters to store hot water for the next "lean" period.  That 34,000 BTU will get a 75 degree temp rise on 55 gallons of water in our preheater, which will get it up to 130 degrees F.

The point is, wind and solar are intermittent sources of power.  Storing it for use when it's not available is generally easier, more convenient, and more efficient than scheduling loads, which requires a person to constantly babysit their system so they can do things when the power is coming in and live in a dark cave with one light bulb going when it's not.

So it's not about being "right".  It's about conveying experiences with how it works so other people can say, "yeah - I can do that."  Or - "no, that won't work for me because I have different needs."
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Chris

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #48 on: August 24, 2012, 11:59:47 PM »
If a person had a weak string of batteries say that was older then a newer string, my understanding is the weak batterys gain voltage faster causing the new string to be under charged.  I have seen post of people equilizing numerous times to bring batteries back to life.  In the above situation, if the imbalance is small, would it be crazy to raise the charge voltage slightly to protect the new batteries over the old?

Not open another can of worms, because most people swear by series strings -

Batteries in a series string have to be matched perfectly or they'll get wrecked.  You can mix and match in parallel without any issues.  An older battery in parallel with a newer one will still charge just fine because the internal resistance comes up faster in the weak one and the stronger one takes proportionately more of the charging current.  The same thing happens during discharge with parallel batteries - the stronger one is forced to carry more of the load than the weaker one.

When a battery in parallel gets so weak that it has to be equalized to get some storage capacity in it again, just unhook the stronger ones and boil the snot out of the weak one to see if you can get it to come back.  If it don't come back - replace it.
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gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #49 on: August 25, 2012, 12:05:33 AM »
Bob G and Chris
I believe both of you are talking from the heart.  Clearly I don't at this time care about outages.  I do care about getting the most out of what I have.  I am sure I don't have the knowladge of either one of you.  I believe chris's comments pertain to not making power and having nowhere to go with it.  This is something to consider.  I also believe he knows the sperrotic nature of sun and wind and the fact that if I get in trouble I can fix it with the grid.  I know that It doesn't make sense to lose twenty percent charging the battery then using the power and the losing anouther 20% charging them from the grid.  I believe this advice is given for special circumstance to protect the batts during bad runs so no power is lost during good times.  I believe bob g is saying batts arnt cheap and covering daily loads even if you lose some power you could have saved it wont ad up to more then the extra batts.  I know I need to study my inverter capibilities more so I know what it will do.  Which system can I match stable load to with the least amount of oversite and how much is considered loss?  I do know I have to watch some.  I also know that I have put you guys at a dissadvantage by not giving you any loads, as bob has pointed out.  I don't know them but was guessing they are close to most normal homes.  I gave you my electric cost and the batteries will cost almost as much as two years if i go with twenty four.  If they go 3 years I probly come out even not counting any other cost.  It would be like paying my bill in advance.  don't really save money and lose if batts only last 6 months.  Maby electric will go way up and then I will be smart.  In 2000 I was paying $0.06 now I pay $0.11 per kwh.  I hadn't thought that I had changed any in direction I just adjusted from something I could not make work.  Both arguments make sense and the cost probly aren't that for off from each other in the big picture unless my daily loads are with in the 80% range of my production.  If that were the case bob's position would work better.  I don't  know how or if my wind will play into this and as I said I was willing to discount it for this descussion.
I would rather it work good so I could feel good and think I wasn't a total idiot for getting into solar but I won't lose any sleep over the money as I have made bigger money mistakes in my life and lived though it.  I do my best and then it is what it is and hopefully I get smarter in the prosses.
Thank you guys
gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #50 on: August 25, 2012, 12:14:46 AM »
Chris
48 volt strings wired parallel one new one old.
gww

PS
If I miss quoted your intent in my above post please correct me.

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #51 on: August 25, 2012, 12:16:11 AM »
I would rather it work good so I could feel good and think I wasn't a total idiot for getting into solar

Solar power is good.  And you got a REALLY nice array at 3.4 kW installed capacity.  That's nothing to sneeze at in anybody's book.  We live off-grid and only got a 2.7 kW array here.

The only bad thing about solar is that it never works 24 hours a day in most places.  At least not that I've ever seen.  From my experience, when the sun goes down it's pretty much done.  So in order to use it overnight, you have to have some way to "buffer" it a little.
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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #52 on: August 25, 2012, 12:19:41 AM »
48 volt strings wired parallel one new one old.

I don't see that as an issue.  You mean buy 8 batteries and hook them up, then a year later buy 8 more and parallel that string with the old one?  Should work fine.  The newer string will probably be slightly stronger and may be forced to carry more of the load under discharge.  And you may not get quite the life out of the newer string that you would get if they were all installed at the same time.  But otherwise, I don't see a problem with that.
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gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #53 on: August 25, 2012, 12:44:55 AM »
Chris
As I have the grid I don't care about power at night but I do care about not being able to use it if I produce it during the day.  Better to have it at night even with a 20% reduction as long as it adds up to what the batts cost.  As an added benifit I will have a tiny amount if the power goes out.  never needed it before but what the heck.

I edited my above post to say if I miss quote your intentions then correct me.
thanks
gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #54 on: August 25, 2012, 01:14:54 AM »
Chris
You mentioned hot water heating from the inverter.  Would the simplest way to controll this be with a timer or maby a dusk to dawn type device?
gww

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #55 on: August 25, 2012, 01:16:18 AM »
As I have the grid I don't care about power at night but I do care about not being able to use it if I produce it during the day.  Better to have it at night even with a 20% reduction as long as it adds up to what the batts cost.

One of the most expensive things for homes is heating water and heating the home.  And you can heat serious amounts of water with a 3.4 kW solar array.  If you put in a sub panel with about 1 kW peak worth of loads for the inverters (maybe just lighting and the 'fridge/freezer) along with a smaller battery bank (like 8 batteries) you would have backup for an outage to keep the lights on and fridge/freezer going.  And it would be totally automatic switchover in the event of an outage.

Then use your solar controller to activate a relay to run an electric water heater (240 volt) to heat water in a pre-heater.  You'd get 100% use out of those solar panels and wind turbines.  It's not too hard - if you have LP water heating just buy an electric DWH for $300 bucks and plumb it in series with the LP unit.  Then replace the 4,500 elements in it with smaller ones sized to the amount of incoming power you got available.

Just a thought.  Water heating takes a LOT of energy, and electric is twice more efficient than gas from a BTU input standpoint - even with the losses in the inverters.
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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #56 on: August 25, 2012, 01:27:20 AM »
You mentioned hot water heating from the inverter.  Would the simplest way to controll this be with a timer or maby a dusk to dawn type device?

No.  Most solar controllers have a dump mode.  Either PWM or direct dump.  Use that to drive a pilot relay, which in turn drives a big two pole contactor to turn on 240 volt power from the inverters to the water heater.  That's the way our system works with MidNite Classic 150's.

I actually made a movie about it for somebody who asked how it works:


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Chris
« Last Edit: August 25, 2012, 01:44:47 AM by ChrisOlson »

gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #57 on: August 25, 2012, 01:39:47 AM »
Chris
What is a DWH
I havent got the vidio to work yet.  The mx 60 has a dump function on it.  I don't know what a pilot relay or a pole connector is.  Basicly when the batts are full the dump turns on the hot watter heater?  Are'nt most dumps from the battery?  If the inverter draws the battery down wont the dump turn off?
Thanks
gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #58 on: August 25, 2012, 01:45:46 AM »
I had to fix the link on the movie.  Sorry about that - it explains what it does and how it works.

A DWH is a Domestic Water Heater.

One thing I didn't mention in the video is that the reason I wired up the water heaters with Type SEOW cable is because I got a 4 prong twist lock plug at the heater.  My idea when I put it in was that if the water heaters got hot I'd unplug them and plug in an electric 2,000 watt 240 volt space heater to continue using the power that's available.  It turned out in the long run that it is sized pretty close to the rest of the system and the the times that I could plug in a space heater are not very often, so I've never used that "feature".

On days when we've gotten both heaters to 165 degrees the wind has to be blowing like hell along with two really nice days of sunshine, and they will both get to full thermostat kick-out on the second day late in the afternoon before we lose our sunshine for the day.
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« Last Edit: August 25, 2012, 02:11:30 AM by ChrisOlson »

gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #59 on: August 25, 2012, 02:11:16 AM »
Chris
I can look up the bradly pole connector but dont know where to look for a pilot relay.
Thank you for the vidio.
mx 60 charge controller.  If the dump turns on is the solar still going to the inverter?
gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #60 on: August 25, 2012, 02:22:08 AM »
I think the output from the MX60's dump when it's in divert mode is battery voltage.  It can also do PWM.  It's been a couple years since I had one of those.  Basically, instead of using the dump current from the controller to directly drive a load, you use it to operate a relay to turn on Big Power from the inverters to the load.

I would think you could use PWM too and drive a Solid State Relay (SSR) with it.  The SSR, if it is two-pole, can turn on the 240 volt power to the heater element and the PWM will precisely regulate the voltage at the batteries for proper charging.  I believe that's the way I would do it with the MX60 because it don't have the Waste Not Hi mode like a Classic.

With 48 volt system your controller would probably not start to "dump" until around 60 volts, and with 60 volt DC power that's not too bad for water heating either if you have a short wire run.  A 2,000 watt 120 volt element is 7.2 ohm and that will draw 500 watts driving it direct with 60 volt DC.  So that can be done too, but I experimented with that back in the day and it is not even close to as efficient as using 240 volt AC.
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gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #61 on: August 25, 2012, 09:14:47 AM »
Chris
 If it didn't take too much juice to turn the switch to turn the hot water heater on, a guy might use one of them cheap $20 solar controlers to turn it on based on battery voltage that is a little lower then the mx 60 charge controller.  Then I could just run the water heater through the inverter and it would be on sometimes and off sometimes.  Is my brain working this morning or am I missing something?  Sorry I quit responding last night,  I run out of steam and no it wasn't your vidio that put me out as the vidio was nice!
Thanks
gww

My mistake those controllers are for 12 volt.  Maby a timer and oversite for cloudy days?  Hate it as it is not seamless.

Bob G
When I gave my electric cost for my house, it was from when I was living there.  My day time use might change when I am retired rather then at work although my wife is home now.  As we seem to be in consenses on hot water heating maby I can find a way for that to work through the inverter.
Thank you for your time
gww
« Last Edit: August 25, 2012, 11:16:31 AM by gww »

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #62 on: August 25, 2012, 11:06:05 AM »
The reason I would shy away from using any sort of voltage based relay controlling cheap controller is because I have experimented with those as well, and they don't let the batteries charge properly.  I really think using the MX60's PWM output to drive a SSR would work the best because you already have the controller.  Use one of these on each leg of the 240 volt going to the element and drive them with the PWM output of the controller:
http://www.gordosales.com/store/pc/SSR-4810-39p4142.htm

Since you have 48 volt you'll have to come up with a way to limit the voltage input to the SSR to no more than 32 volts (resistor maybe?).

The way this will work is that the solar panels will charge your batteries and when they get to absorb the batteries no longer need all the power that is available from the array.  So the controller starts "dumping" with PWM to control the voltage.  The SSR will vary the amount of watts the heating element can draw to precisely hold your battery voltage at the correct level for charging and use the excess in the heater.  When the batteries get fully charged the heater element will be going full bore and using all the solar power to heat water.

It works.  This is pretty much the identical setup I have for the voltage clippers on my MPPT wind turbines.

Edit:
My voltage clippers are three-phase and I operate those with a two-pole SSR.  Since 240 volt heating elements have no neutral connection you can run one leg of the 240 right to the heating element and modulate the other leg with the SSR and it will work.  So all you need is one single pole SSR.
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Chris
« Last Edit: August 25, 2012, 11:31:21 AM by ChrisOlson »

gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #63 on: August 25, 2012, 01:34:40 PM »
Chris
I only have one mx 6o and one morningstar 60 for the turbine dumpload.  I am going to have to read this last post and site linc over and over till I get it.

Let me try to exsplain the parts I think I understand and see how wrong I am. 
1.  Just because the mx60 is dumping that doesn't mean the batts aren't charging and the inverter is not feeding the load?  The panels don't shut down they just go in two directions?

2.  The inverter is not heating the water the panels are through the mx 60 through the batteries? 

3.  The elements are using dc voltage not ac?

4.  Can't use the mppt of the mx60 if you use the dump funtion.

5.  The srr hold the power to the elements to the current it is receiving from the mx60 dump not wildly from the batteries.

6.  It is dc current heating the elements. 

7.  You need two leggs of current to heat the elements.

8.  The mx60 is not an all or nothing propposition, either dump or charge.  Is the morninstar an all or nothing propposition due to the turbines being hooked directly to the batteries?

Does my post make any sense?  If the inverter is more efficeint is there no way to get the heater to turn on through it?  say 1000 watt load all the time, 2000watt water heater when batts are full?
Thanks
gww

Bob G
It is probly not very sientific but I devided $70 by $0.11 and it came up a little over 21 kwhs daily use winter.  I devided this by 16 hours and came close to 1.3 kwh per hour.  I do understand things can be schedled.  If I miss Quote what you are trying to say in any of my post Please correct me.
Thanks
gww

PS
Sorry I spell so badly.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2012, 01:46:31 PM by gww »

ChrisOlson

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #64 on: August 25, 2012, 02:23:38 PM »
No, I'd use 240 volt AC power to run the heating element.  Getting 2,000 watts to heating elements with 60 volt DC power requires 34 amps and a special low resistance heating element.  You can get that same 2000 watts to the element with 240V AC on only 8.3 amps, and use an off-the-shelf $12 element.

I'm pretty sure the MX60 has a PWM function on its AUX port for diversion.  They may call it "fast switching" in the MX60 - I don't remember for sure.  And I don't remember what its voltage regulation is.  But that should be able to be used to trigger a SSR to turn on the 240 volt power to the heating element based on charging stage voltage.

If you study your manual for the MX60 it should mention that in there someplace, and how to program that AUX port to drive a diversion load thru a mechanical relay or SSR.

What this would do is provide you with a way to use a much smaller battery bank and the controller simply turns on the heating load to keep the panels at full power when the batteries are charged up.
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gww

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Re: walmart & sams club batteries
« Reply #65 on: August 25, 2012, 02:35:54 PM »
Chris
So the hot water heater is wired to the sub panel of the inverter and the mx 60 only turns it on.  If It is that simple I love it.  This what you mean?  If thats how it works It makes me wish I wouldn't have bought the morningstar controller I could have did my whole dump through the inverter turbines and all without overloading the mx60.  I kept hearing fabricator advocating this but I never understood the prossess.  Thank you. 
gww