Author Topic: 10ft Other Power build  (Read 1950 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

FishH2o

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 12
  • Country: us
10ft Other Power build
« on: July 14, 2017, 03:00:27 PM »
Well after some small screws ups I decided to save my good long lumber for a future build. I have decided the best way to learn is building a version that is well documented and widely used. I will use this to document the build and ask for suggestions and advise. Thank in advance for all help and comments are greatly appreciated. I have my blade blanks all cut out and will post some pictures once I have them resized.

SparWeb

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3307
  • Country: ca
    • Wind Turbine Project Field Notes
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2017, 09:26:40 PM »
Cool
Looking forward to seeing it!
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it.  Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.

System spec: 135w BP multicrystalline panels, regulated by Xantrex C40, DIY 8ft diameter wind turbine, regulated by Tri-Star TS60, 800AH x 24V AGM Battery, Xantrex SW4024

FishH2o

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 12
  • Country: us
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2017, 10:36:16 AM »
These are the 3 blade blanks I have cut down.

FishH2o

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 12
  • Country: us
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2017, 05:19:30 PM »
Question or you guys... So, 2 of the 3 boards were without warp. I leveled the root and checked the level at each station. Now, the third board, after I leveled the root the tailing edge is higher than the leading edge. The opposite, Hugh Pigott says to take the measurements with the help of the level raising it. My question, since the leading edge is lower than the trailing edge can I shave down the tailing edge with a plane to make it level before I take my drop measurements? Or, must I lower the level to compensate for the warp?


***Edit***
Or, does it mater as long as I do the same to each?

dnix71

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2267
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2017, 06:34:06 PM »
The forces are at the tip of the blades. How close are the relative weights of the blades? If they weigh the same, a thin shim washer when mounting the warped blade would place its wing tip back in line with the other two. This means less material is removed. Balance the hub first, then mount the blades, rebalance adding weight near the hub and shim to make the tips travel in a clean circle. Uness the centers of the blades are way off it won't matter much as all the work is done near the leading edge.

SparWeb

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3307
  • Country: ca
    • Wind Turbine Project Field Notes
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2017, 08:57:05 PM »
Your third board does look like it has a twist in it, but let me go down to basics: You will have to accept unpredictable twists if you use solid boards with knots in them. 
Dealing with this now, this way, may be a bit of tail-chasing since these boards may be too fresh to be done drying yet.  They could continue to twist later.
That's the reason behind laminating wooden blades, which has been very good at stopping warpage in my blades.
I have lots of twisted lumber in my woodshed fine for building horse shelters but not so good for making WT blades.

To deal with the blades you're working on today, you could stick to getting the incidence angle of the tips the same on all 3.
Start by clamping the root ends of all 3 together in between two (flat) boards so that they're lined up like they would be on the hub.
Lay a straight edge along the tips, and use your protractor to check the angles of all 3.  With numbers we can judge how much work it will take to fix.
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it.  Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.

System spec: 135w BP multicrystalline panels, regulated by Xantrex C40, DIY 8ft diameter wind turbine, regulated by Tri-Star TS60, 800AH x 24V AGM Battery, Xantrex SW4024

hiker

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1527
  • BIG DOG
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2017, 11:29:47 PM »
What about steam then clamp down to a flat surface ?
WILD in ALASKA

MattM

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 415
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2017, 04:02:31 AM »
actually, you can use heat treatment without steam to get any desired permanent shape to wood.  You must seal them once they are heat treated to prevent further unintended warping, although you can expect very little.  Think kiln drying.  You need a form, preferably from metal, to give the desired shape.  And you have to be careful not to burn them up if you choose to use open flame, which is the easiest method.  Look up how skis are formed.

dnix71

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2267
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2017, 04:57:49 PM »
If you can build a good ski, you can build a good blade. Like SparWeb said, lamination is the key to uniformity and stability.
http://www.skibuilders.com/howto/skicon/lamination.shtml

kitestrings

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 769
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2017, 08:04:09 AM »
Those look like pressure treated 2-bys.  If so they are pretty green - both in color and moisture, or preservative content.  Like a deck, they will shrink, check and move quite a bit as they dry.  I think the idea of clamping or pressing them ideally until they can dry would be a good first step.

Good luck, ~ks

FishH2o

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 12
  • Country: us
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #10 on: August 16, 2017, 02:24:12 PM »
Just wanted to update you guys...


Since all of the comments, I wanted to let you all know its Yellow Pine. Yes it is a little "green" still thats why I haven't started carving them... I wi update the photos in a few more weeks of the same pieces of wood for the blanks.  Im sure in the 75-90% humidity I have here in FL they aren't going to dry much more. Eventually this will FLY on my property in New Mexico so its nothing im rushing.. However, while waiting for the wood to "condition" if you will I have ordered my magnets and wire. Resin will be purchased locally since im in Tampa.. We and a ton of boat builder supplies around here... The one thing I wanted to ask you all is if cost wasn't so much of an issue what resin have the most heat transferring properties. Also, on the outer edge of the stator disk has anyone tried to mount a heat exchanger or small flanges to help keep it cool? I know it should cool itself on top of the tower but I would think any assistance with cooling would help.

Thanks,
FishH2o


SparWeb

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3307
  • Country: ca
    • Wind Turbine Project Field Notes
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #11 on: August 17, 2017, 11:03:06 PM »
Quote
Im sure in the 75-90% humidity I have here in FL they aren't going to dry much more. Eventually this will FLY on my property in New Mexico...

Woah.  The shape of the blades you carve in Florida will have only a passing resemblance to the shape they will have in New Mexico!

As for stator heat and shedding it: mixing aluminum particles into the resin is one way to improve heat conduction.  Your selection of resin also matters and somehow the magic ingredient has slipped my mind.  It's not epoxy - Epoxy resin is cheap but insulates too much.  I'll try to remember, but hopefully someone with a better memory than me will get here first!

A heat sink around the edge of the stator isn't a bad idea.  Tricky to do though.  There's a thermal mass at the center of the generator (the magnet disks and the hub) but they aren't connected to the stator so they don't do much to cool it.  If you want to think about a heat sink, make sure not to get solid metal elements between the magnet rotors, or they will just cause a drag and become a SOURCE of heat.  Ironic, eh?
No one believes the theory except the one who developed it.  Everyone believes the experiment except the one who ran it.

System spec: 135w BP multicrystalline panels, regulated by Xantrex C40, DIY 8ft diameter wind turbine, regulated by Tri-Star TS60, 800AH x 24V AGM Battery, Xantrex SW4024

Mary B

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 784
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #12 on: August 18, 2017, 07:43:59 PM »
Hmmm maybe a plastic heat pipe wound into each coil ran to the outside edge. Connect to a manifold then a radiator that faces into the wind...

Amish_Fighter_Pilot

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 33
  • Country: us
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #13 on: August 18, 2017, 09:14:29 PM »
I like your thinking Mary. Liquid cooling inside would be a huge plus, and you already have a device capable of turning the pump for it(just use an automotive water pump running off a belt drive)

FishH2o

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 12
  • Country: us
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #14 on: October 16, 2017, 09:26:19 AM »
Quote
Woah.  The shape of the blades you carve in Florida will have only a passing resemblance to the shape they will have in New Mexico!


Yeah I was thinking the same thing. If they are all jacked up ill just carve some more.I work from home and I will walk outside work for 15 minutes come in and make sure im still online and see if anyone has questions then I will go back outside and work on the blades a little more. The first 2 are actually coming along pretty good. Are they the best NO but for a first timer that has never done anything like this Im prod of them so far. I seriously don't mind screwing up and starting over. Being self taught on pretty much everything I do I just try and try again..

My old Rodeo coach used to tell us bear down and TRY and keep your head on...


kitestrings

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 769
Re: 10ft Other Power build
« Reply #15 on: October 17, 2017, 08:39:34 PM »
ATH?  I've never used it, but recall several discussions about vinyl ester resin additives including ATH.

Several builders have designs where the coils are open in the middle (including ours), and some (Chris Olsen and also Nekit come to mind) also put holes through the magnet rotor plates to improve cooling.

Good motto.  Good luck.  ~ks