1. Yes, they make baseball bats of ash.
2. Waterproof woodworker's glue.
3. Yes
4. I have no idea because I'm not familier with the dimentions of Hugh's blades. But if they are not thick enough you could add laminations. Laminates give you the opertunity to play god with grain structure.
5. No

don't know what they used for glue, but it stands to reason that if it works for airplane props it should work for wind gen blades.

perhaps laminated with fiberglass resin and woven mat single layer should make for and incredibly strong blade.

then a cover of the same to seal out all possibility of moisture getting in.

careful stacking of the laminates would sure allow getting the twist, profiles, camber etc. perhaps easier than carving out of a solid blank.

slso filler material could be used such as fiberglass reinforced bondo to fill as needed  before the cover was put on would allow more intricate design.

and the quality of the wood could be more carefully controlled, less knots, shakes, etc.

i like it

Several glue type can be use for that. I use some Gorilla RED glue (actually the Lepage Brand in Canada) in the past and it worked fine (for structural laminate but never build blade with it). The bound is solid and resist humidity (and water) very well.

Here I suggest you follow this link for more information on glue type:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Exterior_glues.html

You can pre-shape the wood before laminating it. However, don't forget that most glue need clamping for several minutes if not hours. Therefore, the shape must be stable when the pressure (often 50 to 60 pounds) is applied with the clamp.

Pretty smooth (like circular saw cut) is not always enough with thin laminate, especially with PVA glue type. For thin wood (1/4 inch thick), you can always try to eliminate all void by clamping the work every few inches, doing only a few layers at the time. However, for 1/2 to 1" thick ash... Well, this will not work very well. In this case, try to select glue that has some "GAP" filling ability. But the GAP filling ability of the glue must be use sparingly if at all.

Finally, if your wood clamps are not strong enough to produce the 6" wide laminate in a single operation (too much GAP to prevent, the wood is not strait, etc...)... You can do it in several operations. However, if you don't have a planner to straiten the edge of the "glued pieces", you need to take a lot of extra precaution in clamping. You need to prevent the formation of a WAVE pattern, therefore you need to clamp you work against a solid strait edge.

Please consult my files to be found under "JF" Diary entries:

"Simple blades and Rotors - Parts 1-4"

and also the file "Simple Blades and Rotors - Part 4b" - to be found under the "Comments" entries.

You will find that the two-bladed  rotor designed by Uwe Hallenga is also very suitable for this construction.

Also consult a previous file concerning some laminated blade experiments done together with other friends and colleagues:

http://www.otherpower.com/images/scimages/119/bladecar.pdf

Finally - kindly likewise consult several of the entries and remarks made by my friend and colleague Hannu Virtanen [these will be found under "Hannu" or "Virtanen"] for further information concerning the interesting simple and effective Finnish "layered-plank strip" technology.