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Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel?


By hobot, Section Mechanical
Posted on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 04:55:07 AM MST
<br> Legal hazzards of homebrewing this fuel?

Can anyone tell me if The STATE allows one to brew
ethanol as a fuel for private use and/or to sell
to nieghboors or use pure ethanol vechicle on pulbic
ways?

I'm not asking about the mixed alcohol/gasolines
sold by corpations but private folks who may mix
their own?

hobot

Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? | 24 comments (24 topical)

Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#1)
by TERRYWGIPE on Thu Jul 21, 2005 at 11:32:17 PM MST

I believe that you need to apply for oermitts, dive through hoops, go through red tape, and posibly even bark like a dog to  earn that privledge.

terry



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#2)
by wildbill hickup on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 06:00:58 AM MST

Yep,

Your cheatin the Gov out of road use taxes. Don't know what "State" your talking about but they all want their money and don't forget the fed's. Used to call that bootlegging the gov dosen't care what your doin with it(drinkin or burnin) they just want their money. Well they do care if your drinkin it then your responsible for higher taxes(in more trouble). Even biodiesel is subject to tax if you get caught. Just think .... the new bootleggers of the 21st century. Sounds impressive. If you do it don't talk about it!!!!!!!

Sorry about the rant!!!!!!

Wildbill ;->

Read somewhere that in the US anyway 'It's legal to make up to 200 gallons of alcohol (beer/wine) a year(for your own use of course), AND it's also legal to own a still, BUT it's illegal to use your legal still to turn your legally made alcohol into distilled alcohol! I wonder what the taxes are on 200 gallons of beer. Shhhh don't give 'um any ideas.



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#3)
by Bruce S on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 08:01:34 AM MST

HELLO Admin;
I know this is in the wrong section maybe you could move it to the opinon section?

hobot;
   Been doing just this for let's say a long time.
As wildbill said, don't know what state your in. All states have VERY specific rules and the FEDs are even more strict about it.
Look online for your state and federal rules.
You'll need to BEFORE you start making ANYTHING register with the ATF about what your going to be doing with it.
They really don't care what you do with it so long as your not selling it.
In Missouri there's a per year rule with the FEDs that's a 100 gal rule for drinkable stuff. No known rule for vehicle , but I will call and update this later, I've been making this for my '81 pickup for 3 years now ( in 5 gal. batches) and haven't gotten into trouble yet.
When the ATF came out to inspect my setup I had to prove that the stuff I was making would not be safe to drink. May way of doing that was having galvanized pipes in the cooling section. NOTE: This make the stuff very deadly to humans!! mere hours before your liver shuts down!!

Had to pay a one time registration fee of $75.00 back in the late 70s but that's about it. The ATF guys call every once in a while to see how things are going and when I told them I had a cheaper way of making the stuff they came out and looked it over, even tried the drinkable stuff ( 190 proof) and updated their notes via my internet connection and off they went.
Being nice to people always pays off.
If they even think your going to be selling it they'll not issue you a permit.
A word of caution about using it pure for the car ..... Don't! even the newer vehicles don't like it pure, Brazil did extensive studies in this and their mixtures are at 85% , the cars need the little bit in them for lubrication of the rings.
I run a 60% in my truck and it loevs the stuff, I'm on 143,000 miles without a rebuild, tho I am going to do a lifter replacment once the weather is below the century mark.
As a BTW, my fuel runs me on the average of $1.80/gal. US$. This of course takes into account I use natural gas for the cooking part, PV solar to battery to inverter for the distillation part.
The by product is CO2 for my indoor plants and the waste is out in the garden that I let sit and winter over before I use that part again, seems to work better that way.

I will restate ONE PART--- DO NOT do this without a permit, the ATF guys/gals are nice people ( the ones around my part of the world anyway) , but the get real mean if you break the law. Think jail first, then you can make bail.

Hope this helps and my again apologies to admin for not putting this comment in the rants area.

Bruce S  



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#4)
by SpirckleM on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 10:04:13 AM MST

Hi Bruce,

Can we assume that your truck is a straight gas engine with no modifications?

--------
Using the best of today's thinking to create the problems of tomorrow

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#7)
by Bruce S on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 02:24:55 PM MST

That would be correct.
Plain ole '81 Ford f100 6cyl with single carb. automatic.
Ugliest thing on the highway so far..

Bruce S
PS. Neat phrase you got there...


[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#21)
by nothing to lose on Tue Aug 02, 2005 at 02:46:58 PM MST

I'm in MO. , and got a place in AR. (on the border)

Where can I get info on how your making your feul? $1.80 sounds expensive, but still better than $2.10 for gas, plus other benifits too :)

Being I just got a 78 F150 with a 460ci engine I might need this!!!

For a heat source I think I could build a still into my other systems and use the waste heat I already will have, perhaps reducing costs.

Here there is plenty of cheap or free scrap oak for fires and making charcoal etc.. and the waste heat produced making charcoal in summer could be used for the still perhaps. In winter waste heat can heat the house.

What part of Missouri you in? South central for me, about 150 miles or so to Springfield or Branson.
.
nothing to lose

Spelin and tpying are my strong points, not electronics.
[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#5)
by Experimental on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 11:04:10 AM MST

    Good morning,
    Several things you should know about alcohol -- It is extremely corrosive, eats a lot of rubber products and you burn a lot more to produce the same power as gas..
    usually, it is used with other products -- such as in race cars, it is often mixed with nitro methane..
    It runs, very cold, and this is part of the reason it is usually blended with other products -- often when burning, the flame isen,t visible and in general, isen,t really a good product to use, as a fuel, by itself..
    It was used extensively in aviation, many years ago, and some of the problems it caused, like sticking valves and detoriating rubber and corrosion of metal parts,was found to cause more problems than it was worth...
   This might give you cause to consider other products, like perhaps, bio diesel.. Bill H..



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#6)
by ghurd on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 02:14:50 PM MST

In my air-cooled VW days,
alcohol ate all the rubber between the carb and heads.
That was only 7 to 10%.
Cost a couple hundred to get it fixed.
G-
Ghurd.info
[ Parent ]


Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#9)
by Bruce S on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 02:59:20 PM MST

Hey G-
  Yep, many many rebuilds on those old flat 4s. they were so easy to pull out and work on. The chevy flat 4s had the same problem.
Most people went back to cutting and using cork or metal for the cyl heads. The worst was the carbs. The VWs had great little carbs, but man if you messed with want they were bulit to work with you paid the price.

All the rebulid now a days dont' have that problem though. I should say at least the flats that are in the VW Bus/van don't have problems now.

Wish I had a couple of those old 1300 - 1800ccs around now. Got way much better mileage.

Bruce S

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#8)
by Bruce S on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 02:51:48 PM MST

Bill;
  Very Very true about the corrosive part. I use it in a 60 Alky 40 87-regluar gas.
I have not had any problems with this mixture since after the 2nd tankful. I personally would never use Alky in a pure form, unless I'm on empty and at home.
I should've included that part in my first post but it got kinda lengthy.
Once someone desides to got with more than the normal 10% they should make sure they have plenty of replacement fuel filters. The Alky is very good at cleaning up the sludge in the fuel lines and normally at the bottom of fuel tanks.

My truck went through 7 filters before it was down to normal replacments, and I do use the better element type due to the very fact that Alky like to cimbine with water and the cheapo filters expand when water shows up, which is a good thing but not when your going down the highway.
I actually got into using Alky because of the racing circuit and the higher octane that Alky gives you.
The corrosivness to metals is manily on the Alum and pot metal mixes.
The older type of rubber was a pain, but by using cork / metal for heads and such there isn't any problems.
There was a time that the valve sring keepers that used rubber for cleaning the oil off but those went to neoprine back in the middle 80s and shouldn't be a problem anymore.

A friend in Minn. tells me he cuts his back to 40 - 60 during the winter and hasn't had any porblems with cold weather starting.

If I could find an affordable diesel I would swap this one out quick as I could, Bio-diesel is much more energy dense and I could even get away with a 4 cyl. due to there low end torque.

I should say that my settings come from having worked around vehicles for years and that these are my personal observations and possibly a whole lot of good luck with an old truck.
As all have said here : Above all else becareful!!

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#10)
by hobot on Fri Jul 22, 2005 at 08:39:03 PM MST

Thanks for the ins an outs on this. Exactly the
feedback I needed to know, inculding the between
the lines attitudes on grabermints as our guaridian
needing its cut. I'm in Ozark Highlands and the
fine clear stuff is still a practiced hobby but kept
in a tight circle. I leave two interesting sites I
found wandering around.
http://www.happymountain.net/disgraceful%20history.html
http://www.radford.edu/~wkovarik/papers/fuel.html

hobot



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#13)
by Bruce S on Sat Jul 23, 2005 at 04:32:51 PM MST

hobot;
 Are you in the Missouri area of the Ozarks? seems there supposed to be a REAL Nice trailarea around Joplin.

Another reallt good link with a lot of real good/ truthful info would be to google for "Blue Flame" it is the "code word" for 'shine.
He has some very good ideas on making it, and the receipes work , I've tried almost all of them.

Bruce S

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#24)
by hobot on Tue Dec 13, 2005 at 10:27:37 PM MST

Blue flame eh, cool, thanks will investigate. I'm
a sensitve liver I guess and can only drink the
hangover proof grades, which all seem to be the
non taxed kind.

hobot
N.W. Arkansas Ozark Mts.

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by Phil Timmons on Sat Jul 23, 2005 at 12:41:02 PM MST

Well, all good answers deserve more questions . . .

Anyone try fuel injection engines (as well as the carb. based discussed)?

I suppose turbine engines would be the most tolerant?

The quoted cost listed above . . .  $1.80 per gallon . . .  with considering fuel (natural gas) costs of heating for distillation . . .

Anyone know what the "material only" cost would be?  e.g are numbers for corn about $2.50 a bushel which yields about 2 1/2 gallons of alcohol mean about $1.00 a gallon?  I dunno -- so those are not hard numbers -- I am just asking.

I am thinking that solar distallation may be an angle.  Alcohol boils off from the water in the mash at about 180 degrees F, correct?  That is pretty  easy to reach in solar based stills.   And since the result -- the alcohol fuel -- is mostly "stored" energy being created, cloudy days do not matter, because you would just make a bunch on sunny days.

Does the $1.80 quote figure BEFORE highway taxes or AFTER?  Or since it is being used a mix with gasoline (where the highway tax has already been paid) is it just ignored for the purposes of highway taxes -- like say battery vehicles do not pay highway taxes on their electricity?  Again, I dunno about any of that and am just asking.

Final question . . . the use of galvenized materials in the distallation system -- rendering the product poison -- I am thinking that must mean Zinc?  Does that mean Zinc oxides and other such compounds (probably not a good thing) might be present in the exhaust?

btw. thanks, great discussion.




Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by elvin1949 on Sat Jul 23, 2005 at 03:18:22 PM MST

If you want to safely make alk.
read [ the good booze  recipe-and-cookbook]
by James c. Krohn
all the basic's for Hi-Grade ie 180 proof or better.
later
elvin

[ Parent ]


Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#14)
by Bruce S on Sat Jul 23, 2005 at 05:50:09 PM MST

Phil;
   To be very honest , I don't use the method. I go straight to good 'ole sugar. It's easier to control the sugar percentage and I can get it in bulk from the warehouses. Less mess and a whole step bypassed which means lower over all cost due to not needing to break down the carbs in the corn mash
I tend to go for the sugar beets sugar, it cost less and has a higher yield per batch.
I suppse if I where to go to a traditional base of cooking then I would go the route of using a starch base. I would either make use of the entire sugar beet or go the potato/ rice starches. The potato has on average a whole lot more carbs to use that corn does and if I wait until the end of the growing season , I can get it in bulk for 1/3 less and even the bad ones will work as it's a starchy liquid that attracts the files and varmits.

In my costs per gal I try to take into account the total costs of production.
I have had people tell me they can make it for $1.00/gal. I than ask them to cough up the production numbers i.e. nat'l gas, how long they had it on the burner, how they kept the mash at the right temp, how they seperated the tank stuff versus the drinking stuff. At that point they start to back off.

One thing I haven't taken into the cost is the fuel costs for me to pick up the supplies, but since it's on my way back home from work I don't think that would matter unless I went into full production, which I will not do, since it would then be a JOB.:-(

Also to keep this honest here; I do not use the old traditional method of distilling. I found couple of different methods of making this stuff with a little less work.
Also, since I have to deal with the FDA on almost a daily basis in my work, I've found that consistency and repeatability are amoung the most important factors.

 I use a kind of solar still, it isn't directly powered by the sun, but a small 400 watt 12Vdc setup that it kept topped off from my little solar PV. I stayed away from deep cell batteries, didn't have the money, but did use some of the cast-off NiCds that we had laying around the repair department.
Rated at 19.2Vdc 1300mA it was fairly easy to rewire them to be at 12Vdc so that my little PV could keep them up to charge, and following some other ideas to keep the current usage down I can now run my setup almost daily with no more out lay of equipment , other than resupply of the starches and yeasts.

We don't really have highway taxes here , but I do count the taxes I pay for the sugar if that can be called an equalivent.
To me using a purely solar still would be way too hard to control, I like my off time and reading the knowledge people like windstuff ed puts on these boards.

I can send pictures of my still if everyone would like, but not in this area as these things should be in the diaries area I think. Don't think I'll be breaking any laws.

Good question about the Zinc oxides.
Here in St. Louis we have mandatory exhaust tests for all vehicles, I have yet to fail, actually they tested lower than the truck is supposed to and they threatened to fail the truck. Said I must be using one of those alternative fuels to lower it illegally, like injecting water or something I opened the hood and said go for it.

I can, I suppose take the truck to my local repair shop and have them test deeper but I'm fairly sure thet the Zinc is acted upon in the catalyic converter. I am thinking though since the galvanized pipes show no seeable wear after years of use, that the amount would be down in the PPB rather than the PPM that everything is tested at.

Being a curious person I will have them check for closer next time I have to have a saftey inspection, they have an old BEAR emissions tester they get out for me when I try a different type of batch.

On the 180F level, I keep mine at the 212F spot , but if you want to try going a different ruote( the one I use after the first seperation) try putting it in your freezer. See Alky doesn't freeze ( okay it will but not until it's down to the -200F mark or lower) so since I have this chest style freezer for our keeps our meats, grapes and stuff cold. I put my first run in there, the water in it freezes and tada the stuff not frozen is pure "Blue Flame". The rest goes into a 40 quart vat until I have enough to  poor in the zeolite for water extraction, this si the stuff that then goes though the galv. pipes for the truck. I non-frozen stuff goes to a holding bottle for those cold cold winter days :-)) or ...

For the fuel injection cars, there was a nice story on the news here about 2 weeks ago stating that most 2001 and newer cars are already FFV and can even use the e85 stuff without any problems. We have an older than that Buick with 205,000 miles on it and while I know it would run better on my "stuff" I won't run it on it until I have the time to clean out the tank, lines and injector ports.
Carbs are asy enough to work on and clean, injectors clog and it's major money to fix.
 I like your anology of it being energy stored, but there are purist that will say,"energy is NEVER created or destoryed it is only converted from one type to another", so look out for it that.

I'll stop here, this really isn't the spot for this discussion and I can go on for hours about this subject.
Admin: Again sorry for the long windedness
Cheers!!

Bruce S

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#15)
by Phil Timmons on Sat Jul 23, 2005 at 07:25:01 PM MST

Well, thanks that is all good info, too.

Had not really thought a great deal about the starch source.  Corn was just my first guess.  A life-time ago I was a cash crop farmer (corn, wheat and soybeans) now I do electrical (and other) engineering type stuff.  They call it "Design and Build."  Anyway, I have read that sugar cane is popular in Brazil and Mexico applications.  Potatoes and Sugar Beets sound like interesting alternatives, as well.  

btw, the Zinc question was just a passing thought as you had mentioned the alcohol produced was toxic.  

I have some old carberator and fuel injected toy trucks to play with so that was why I asking about that part . . .

=========

Let me back up to give you some of the larger scheme that is cooking on this end.

I am looking at this as being part of a larger system, which is driven by a serious large solar boiler rig - about 3000 square feet of reflector surface.

The overall heat cycle is

  1.  Solar concentrator/accumulator >>>
  2.  Heat exchanger produces steam. >>>
  3.  Steam to turbine (runs turbine for electric generator) >>>
  4.  Steam from turbine is condensed in distillery rig >>>
  5.  Hot water output from still is used for building heat (seasonal) and domestic hot water. >>>
  6.  Water returned to Solar boiler end of rig. >>> (repeat at step #`1)
I am thinking that a solar still could be a functional steam condenser, with an output of hot water for building heat and domestic use (with a heat exchanger) and then the water recycled directly back in to Solar Boiler system at the front end.

So the heat going into the still portion is just surplus heat.  I was looking for something useful to do with that heat.  It seemed either an alcohol production distillery operation like we are discussing is a good use of it, or in the alternate a distilled water production unit.  (although if anyone can offer any other suggestions for use of surplus heat, I would welcome it )

From early playing and extrapolated math it looks like I can keep the start up costs low enough that the whole mess goes into the "black" in the first couple of months.  That is based on "today" energy costs.  The part with the alcohol fuel production is just candy on top.  However, I have been around long enough to see energy costs and prices whipsaw.  Here (in Texas) we had oil production prices range from near $40 a bbl in the early 80's, then drop to the low teens in late `80's, back to the $20's down again, and now through the roof.  

To survive in any energy production endeavor one must be able to survive the low-end times as well as rake in the profits on the high times.  That was the basis of "$1 a gallon?" question -- to survive the bottom times - which (I know, I know) may or may not come.   But just like Winter, it comes sometimes, and it is best to be prepared.

My estimated runtimes of the boiler front end are based on only a 100 hours a month, however, that should be profitable in its own right, but the surplus heat time range should run double that.  Dunno, through, I have not fully calculated any of that part, like I was saying it is just bonus.

The freezing option you discussed is interesting - especially in Winter or Northern applications.  (mho) No sense in fighting nature with running a commercial freezer in the Texas Summer for a production operation.

Another distillery method that I may consider looking at is pressure.  Based on heating tanks during the day (solar) and then as the tanks cool during the night, temperatures drop.  As they drop a slight vacuum is created.  Boiling and separation temps are lowered even in a slight vacuum.  I have not looked at any thermo tables for this type application yet, and am mostly just musing it at this point - however if anyone has done low vapor pressure distilling of alcohol (or water or anything else) I would be interested to hear about that.  

Well, thanks, again.  Good info, and enjoyable conversation.


[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#20)
by Bruce S on Mon Jul 25, 2005 at 09:26:34 AM MST

Phil;
  Great conversations!
 I am impressed with the total layout scheme. I thought I was doing good with a 20gal/run setup.

After reading your post, I can see that you've given this some serious thought.
I can understand the Solar concentrator/accumulator thought. I did a small trial a few years back with a 1 meter parabolic antenna and a peltier chip for producing low voltage electricity. Worked okay but not as well as PV or windturbines do.
Being in the city I can't come close to the 3000sq feet of space. Was looking into relocating to N.M. or the pan handle of TX for the space, but land is getting too high to relocate.
I think I've seen a huge collector setup similar to this thought out in California/ New Mexico.

To me using the available heat bleed-off from the steam procedure IS a good use. I have long understood that we'll never get 100% back but by extracting as much useable power as one can we can get close.

You should be able to make use of the heat extracted to control the environment for the yeast to work its magic, by making use of the leftover heat from the turbine.
This I'm sure is tho not steam anymore still very hot water.

In today's health conscienceness you would probably make more money with the distilled water. You could make full use of the higher temps within the vat to break up the water.
The vacuum method is one I have not pursued. Too many expensive parts for me to explore. Have tried using pressure cookers, but those have to be watched and I my setup is nearly automatic once the initial cooking is completed.

The idea of $1/gal can come into effect if the other prices lower as well.
If for some reason the automakers were to stop making gas guzzlers for people to ride in 1 at a time, then the available fuel would rise accordingly and the price would lower ( we hope).
Other than the century mark days we've had here in Missouri, it really doesn't stay hot enough for me to pursue the heat extraction method on a long term basis so someone else would be able to better answer this part.

My setup was designed on what I had on hand and how to make it cost effective.
I will not go the route of Methanol already poison in its state.
Ethanol can be extracted from nearly any starchy plant even if its labor intensive it won't kill you out right if you breathe it.

I hear ya on the oil prices stuff, I can remember people complaining to me while I was doing the full service island at a Standard station about the high cost of gas ($0.49/gal) and being able to drive from lower Mich. back to St. Louis on $12.00 in a 1970 Chevy Impala w/350 V8.

The one bonus that I do have by keeping this in the house: the CO2 put-off by while the yeast does it's thing; our Herbs grow like crazy. setting above them "J" tube.

You start to get this going on the 3000sq ft, let me know I'll make the trip to help with the startup. I've got 200+hrs PTO saved up.

Bruce S

 

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#22)
by nothing to lose on Tue Aug 02, 2005 at 07:22:10 PM MST

"I can send pictures of my still if everyone would like, but not in this area as these things should be in the diaries area I think. Don't think I'll be breaking any laws."

Got me interested in seeing how you do yours. I think a dairy on it would be a good idea too if you don't mind. I'll be glad to read it. I found the Blue Flame with google (if I got the right one). Everything from Auto exhaust to "custom baby diapers with graphics" came up with a search for blue flame though.

What I got seemed to be 1/2 gal 190proof from 5gal mix after alot of work and time and maybe expense. Not bad at all for drinking maybe but don't look good as a feul at that rate.

If your in ST. Louis area, about 200 miles from me, I'd like to see your setup sometime if you don't mind showing it. How long does this take to run a batch, like after the yeast has done it's work. Where would a person find the best prices on sugar in bulk also. I have alot of 55gal barrels and removable lids, I could fill one with bulk sugar easy. Or toss large bags in the truck.

Yet another thought, I have canned sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce I don't want (many boxes full) and can get garbage candy free (damaged packing), since it's free would this be a good start? Also bread yeast out of date super cheap, any good for this? Canned fruits like peaches in syrup are cheap and plentyful too.

I am thinking mix up a bunch of cranberry sauce, sweetpatotoes, candy bars with a bunch of water in a 55gal barrel. Mix bakers yeast in warm water to active and dump in barrel. Mix, wait a couple weeks. In this weather just let the barrel sit outdoors to ferment. Drain liquid, freeze, drain, distill.
I'd like to go pure sugar also, but as long as I get free stuff like above I need to use it for something. The yeast costs, but so little it's nearly free. The advantage of having freinds in the salvage grocery business, I get alot of great food stuff cheap to eat, and all the garbage I want also for things like this :)
.
nothing to lose

Spelin and tpying are my strong points, not electronics.
[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/ethanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#16)
by RP on Sat Jul 23, 2005 at 11:30:28 PM MST

I think the zinc issue is only because it acts as a catalyst and you end up with methyl alcohol along with ethyl (drinking) alcohol.  As I recall when folks used old truck radiators (soldered) for stills this was a problem, blindness and death.

I don't think the zinc actually contaminates it, just changes it to another (toxic) form.

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/ethanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#17)
by Phil Timmons on Sat Jul 23, 2005 at 11:58:23 PM MST

That could be.  I was thinking some sort of phyiscal chemistry action, where the zinc would be pulled from the metal.  

You are speaking organic.  Organic Chemistry kicked my butt for some reason.  

I even put real work and study on it just to get my "C"s.  And geezzz, that was almost 20 years, ago, now.

Speaking of methyl alcohol, that is sometimes generated from wood waste, as well?

Is that correct?

Anyone try that as fuel or have knowledge of it?

Methyl alcohol (methanol) is single carbon, and ethyl alcohol (ethanol) is two carbon, correct?

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/ethanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#18)
by RP on Sun Jul 24, 2005 at 01:27:24 PM MST

Correct.
  1. Carbon=methyl
  2. =Ethyl
  3. =Propyl (isopropyl - rubbing alcohol), change the structure a little bit=acetone
  4. =Butyl
etc.,etc...

Also more trivia:

Same sequence
methane gas  (natural gas)
ethane
propane (we all know this one)
butane (cigarrette lighters)
pentane (barely liquid at room temperature and pressure)
hexane (solvent in rubber cement I think?)
heptane
octane... (used as reference standard for gasoline detonation properties)

Methanol was the alcohol used for in those "spirit" copiers we used in grade school (60s-70s).  The ones that used that purple carbon paper stuff for a master.  I would expect methanol to be easier to get since you'd think wood waste is plentiful but I don't know.  Also I think methanol is corrosive to many metals.

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/ethanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#19)
by Phil Timmons on Sun Jul 24, 2005 at 10:12:22 PM MST

Thanks.

Actually I did a little self-education on wiki and other such places last night after I was pondering that.  We have access to serious wood waste in East Texas --  BIG Piney forests.  So it looks like fermenting and cooking down wood could give distillable methanol.  

So combining the waste heat in the steam condensor discussed somewhere above, with free wood waste . . .  << ka-ching -- cash register sound >>

But it would probably smell like a Methaphetamine lab doing it. :)

From my reading, Methanol has some intrinsic danger to it as it is serious toxic to people and critters we might care about.  I have a real bias to do things that fail safe rather than fail sorry -- so that bumps a methanol distillery down a few notches in my book.

Had not (yet) thought about longer alcohol chains . . I guess as fuels they have more energy.  Better (in general) for motor vehicle fuels, huh?  You may have some good seed for thinking there.  

[ Parent ]



Re: Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? (3.00 / 0) (#23)
by Kwazai on Wed Aug 03, 2005 at 07:00:54 AM MST

10 to 12 years ago I checked into it and small 'beer' brewing for pesonal consumption they weren't going to fool with harassing people about licenses, but any volume will need triplicate licenses (fed,state, local) and they will come around to make sure its denatured (poisoned). At the time the cost was around 4$/gallon in 1000gal qtys versus 1$ gallon gas-it was not cost effective- real problem is they only get about 4% yield(by volume) from the corn mash before the yeast dies off. you could use lager yeast and siphon off the alcohol (extrvirgin olive oil(.79sg) as a seperator from the mash) rather than distilling it, but this too is expensive and the mash would need to be from meal not corn (read more expensive).seems the key to maximizing the yield is to break down the starches to simple sugars(cooking the mash or sulfuric acid the mash)- what is done with biomass gas production is fine chips to brek up the cellulose into small pieces. getting fuel grade alcohol (i've read) takes about four distillations. my .02$
L8r
Mike



Alcohol/etthanol homebrew fuel? | 24 comments (24 topical)
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