This is one I looked at I liked also.
http://www.expats.org.uk/features-theblueflame.html
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nothing to lose

Yep, you have to watch that with homemade soda pop and beer also :)
For soda you do not want it to ferment to alcohol at all, but the yeast and sugar provide the CO2 for carbination instead of pumping it from a tank like comercail pops.
For soda you fill a bottle and cork it right away and there is limited room for the CO2 to build a pressure, you have to chill it then and keep it cold to stop the yeast. Leave it sit on the floor at room temp and pop pop pop go your bottles, could get real messy.

Beer is about the same as soda pop except you let it ferment for awhile because you do want the alcohol in it. But it has the same effect as soda or wine if you cork a bottle and don't chill it if fermentation was not complete, pop pop go the beer bottles.

Hmm, if we do that South Central MO. get together I am thinking of and posted about, perhaps if I have time I will brew up some soda pops and beer for it :)
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nothing to lose

"I'm headed to Poplar Bluff, MO soon to see a farmers unit running that makes use of all the rice being grown down there. He keeps the cast-off fro harvest, tells me it's costing him on average $.25/gal to make it out of low grade rice than even using sugar beets. We'll see."

I am about 1- 1 1/2 hours away I think. If ya want check with the farmer and if he doesn't care maybe I'll meet you over there if I can. I'd like to see that also.

So after reading your post above, and knowing the little bit I know about yeast and fermentation (not alot, but some) where would one find the alcohol in a barrel of mash?
Top, middle, bottom?

"Once I see that to mash is starting to get clear at the top and the J tube isn't bubbling anymore I wait one more day.
I open the top take off the J tube insert a siphon and pull all this stuff into 5 gal buckets. I clean out the 20 q and then insert the false bottom bucket, the false bottom seperator and the first 5 gal bucket of stuff."

I don't really know much about this but thinking out loud here.
My thought is the yeast is killed 2 ways, alcohol kills yeast and also heat. Now if we used yeast to get a batch started, it grows fast right. So we take some mash out to save yeast for the next batch, always doing this we don't have to buy more each time. This would make using brewers yeast less expensive if we only buy it once and grow our own from then on. The old bread makers did the same thing, saving a ball of dough from each batch to use as a starter for the next batch of bread. So why not for brewing??
If it works same as the bread did, just refrigerate it till ready for use to stop the fermentation.

If the alcohol richest part of the mash accumilates primarily in one area of the tank, then if I put a drain valve there and strain off that part to a second tank before the yeast dies then perhaps the first tank would provide a larger yield total from the same mix. Thinking here if the bulk of alcohol were removed the yeast could live longer and produce more.

When the yeast does die out, how much sugar is left over in the mash? When you mix your mash have you figured it to a point where all the sugar is used up before the yeast dies? This is something I am wondering about also. If sugar is still left in the mash after removing the alcohol, then if I drained off say 1/4 - 1/2 tank when nearly done but not quite, then dump back in the old mash from a previous batch, would that dilute the alcohol present while still providing what ever sugar was still in the old mash. This way all sugar is sure to be used up and the yeast lives a maximum life. Do ya think removing the alcohol from a mash then dumping it back into a fresh batch would hurt anything?

 Since a 55gal teflon lined steel barrel with removeable lid costs me $10 I figure I'd use one for this, not much more than a 5gal gas can costs anyway.

 To begin with I will stick to what works, at least till I know what I am doing. But food for thought. Have you tried auto exhaust for a heat source for distilling?
 I mean the heat is there as a by product, radiator or exhaust :)
If we could control the temp of a tank properly using that waste heat while we drive, like heating antifreeze and cirulating around a tank of mash, then vent into a cooler tank, any cost of heating would be eliminated. For small cars that may not be much of an option, but the 78 Ford truck I just bought has 3 tanks! Main rear tank, one smaller side tank each side. So if I were mount a mash tank under it I could vent to one side tank for storage. Then use an electric feul pump to empty that tank or mix with gasolene as needed. Just a thought :)
 Heating costs is something everyone seems to mention when discussing alcohol for feul, if it's that much of an expense that might be away to remove it!
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