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7.5hp Update! Wild Winds


By zubbly, Section Homebrewed Electricity
Posted on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 08:10:16 PM MST
stormy winds today is giving some great testing

hey all!

the wind about 3:am this morning woke me up. i was worried if my capacitors were overheating as i found them this week with good winds to be running quite hot. after adding more capacitors and changing the connection, they now seemed to only get slightly warm to the touch.

to sum it all up after a lot of testing, i have settled on using a total of 1650MFD of capacitors per phase. i have been in my basement taking measurments and today have hit a peak of 3kw (2984 watts) but know i am going over that just a little when the winds are hitting hard. i don't care what the weather man says, but i am very confident and sure that i am getting between 50-60 mph winds. i put on a new pool cover this year and think it just might be in shreds before this wind storm is over.

my heating bank: it is a 18kw (208 volt 3 phase unit) it consists of 6 elements. originally, 3 elements were connected delta, and both sets were paralelled. ohm reading in 2 delta was 4.6 ohm.  i am currently running the gen in a 1 star connection. on bench test it gives 240 volt 3 phase at 600 rpm. the ohm reading in 1 star is 2 ohm. it is a 12 pole unit.

when the capacitors were running hot, i had 1100 MFD per phase, and was using 1 element bank connected in delta (8.4 ohm)

i have now got each of the 2 element banks connected in star and paralelled ( 13.5 ohm )and using 1650 MFD of capacitors per phase. the capacitors only now get slightly warm. i am measuring wattage by taking volts x amps x 1.73.  the capacitors are in series between the gen and elements. taking the readings before or after the capacitors seem to make no difference. so what i ended up with was 2984 watts (150V x 11.5A x 1.73 ). the cycle meter showed just over 400 rpm at the time.

sorry to make so much reading for you, but am trying to give as much detail as possible so it may be of help to some of you.

a few weeks back, i found that the gen seemed to furl a little early for my liking. the prop is a 12 foot diam 3 blade (actually it is a 2 blade design from Alton Moore's blade calculator and am using 3 blades). to get as much as i can from it, i added a 12 pound steel weight on the boom near the tail. this does make it furly much later and allows the prop to get more rpm before furling.

i think this is about as good as i am going to get from this unit with the 12 foot prop on that genny.  i know it is small for what the gen can do so next year the new project will be  much larger prop.

i have included 6 pictures of the gen partially and fully furled as the wind beats it today. i find it so interesting to stand outside and watch how well that furling mechanism works. i cannot explain it with words, you must actually be watching one to full appreciate just what a wonderful job this furling system does.  seeing this prop run at over 400 rpm is quite a sight when it becomes almost invisible. if not for the furling, i am sure it would get to the point of actually exploding from excess rpm.

here is a pic of the capacitors. actually, there are only 12 of them there, and the other 6 are in another box just above them. they are DC capacitors, 1100 MFD 200V. in order to use them on AC, you must connect 2 back to back to make them non polarized. 2 back to back gives you 550 MFD 400 volt. each phase contains 3 sets of 2 capacitors put in paralell for 1650 MFD per phase.



here are 6 pics of the tail in various furled positions. the digi camera gives a weird picture in some of them. the blades appear to be curved.













temperature outside is just below freezing. the oil firnace has only started a few times since this morning. when i put my hand beside the floor heat ducts, it feels just slightly warmer than room temperature. this winter i hope and think this system will greatly help with the heating bills. i had my heating oil tank filled about 10 days ago and cost $500 (it wasn't even empty)  LOL!

hope you enjoyed the update and hope this information will assist anyone wanting to try using a gen for electric heating. i have tried to be as accurate as possible with all readings and recordings and think it should make a good reflection of this type of system.  using the capacitors allows the prop to start up easily and is quite nice to see the meters all of a sudden start to give readings when the capacitors like the volt and freq comming from the gen.

zubbly

7.5hp Update! Wild Winds | 58 comments (58 topical)

Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#1)
by Countryboy on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 01:29:17 PM MST

Zubbly,
  Good to see you are getting good winds, and able to make good use of them.  I hope your unit is meeting your expectations (or exceeding them).

Good job.  I'll look forward to seeing how a larger prop works for you.



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#2)
by Flux on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 02:28:34 PM MST

I am not sure about connecting dc capacitors back to back. I assume one is breaking down when the other is forward biased. I am not sure this halves the capacitance and I am pretty certain it doesn't double the voltage.

You may have less heating with diodes across them to make sure each is never reverse biased. They run back to back for short periods for motor starting but I am not sure what the long term life is.

You are probably ok as far as voltage rating goes as most volts will be across them at low frequency when alternator volts are low. The reactance at 40 Hz seems to be well below the load resistance and is about the same as the alternator resistance.

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#3)
by zubbly on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 03:50:01 PM MST

hi Flux,

thank you for the comments.  your opinion is always certainly an eye opener as your knowledge of many subjects is i am sure based on many years of experience.

the reason i went with DC caps is basically a $ issue. i got them cheap and they do work (how well may be another story) but to get the equivalent in motor run caps would have been very expensive. the largest i seem to be able to locate is 100MFD at 370 or 440 volt ac. a total of almost 50 of these is costly.  perhaps a few mote years of dumpster diving will yield what i need.

zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#19)
by Ungrounded Lightning Rod on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 02:38:51 AM MST

I am not sure about connecting dc capacitors back to back. I assume one is breaking down when the other is forward biased. I am not sure this halves the capacitance and I am pretty certain it doesn't double the voltage.

I am sure.  That is what a nonpolarized (AC) electrolytic IS:  Two equal electrolytic capacitors in the same can, in series, with the + terminals coming out and the common - terminal composed of the electrolyte within the can.  It works just fine if the two caspacitors are in different cans and the negative terminals are tied together instead.

Compared to the individual polarized electrolytics it DOES halve the capacitance.

It does NOT double the voltage:  The asymmetric leakage causes the capacitors to charge up so that each is cycling between the full charge in the normal direction and zero charge, not between half-voltage plus and half-voltage minus.

The asymmetric leakage also does the same job as the diodes would do.  You don't have to worry about breakdown due to the tiny amount of reverse current before the charge builds.  No problem with breakdown at all unless (like any other electrolytic) you've left them unused for years and the dilectric surface of the plates has detereiorated.  In that case (also like any other electrolytic) you have to rebuild the surface insulation by feeding them a low voltage and gradually boosting it to normal normal operating voltage over a day or so.

Protective diodes across the capacitors would not affect circuit operation (unless one failed shorted and caused the opposite capacitor to explode).  They would just waste money.


[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#29)
by Murlin on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 09:23:53 AM MST

Holy Smokes Zubster....

Thanks for the pics...

I can see that when furled, those blades are under tremendous stress @ 400 RPM...

They are bent about a foot...those are wood, right?

Murlin

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#44)
by zubbly on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 10:22:17 AM MST

hi Murlin,

the prop is wood.  actually they are not bent, it is an illusion that the digi camera seems to produce.

zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#54)
by Murlin on Thu Nov 02, 2006 at 07:21:06 AM MST

"it is an illusion that the digi camera seems to produce"

DOH!!!

:)

Murlin teh dummy

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#4)
by RP on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 05:04:11 PM MST

Zubbly,  Have you sampled the warmth of the air coming from the heating elements?  The reason I ask is I'm wondering if all the capacitance is creating a power factor error in your power readings.  

In other words, does it behave like 3kw of heat?




Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by zubbly on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 07:04:40 PM MST

hi RP,

it is an 18kw heating bank, so having 3kw from it would definately not be as hot if it was at its full potential.

the air at the floor heating grates is just slightly warmer than the room air temperature. the heat is constantly blown off the elements by the furnace blower which always runs at low speed when the furnace is not running.

on the face of the connection plate of the element bank, there is a small window held on with 2 screws. i just went and took it off and put my finger in there against one of the elements. my fingure did not get burnt, but i could not hold it on for more than about 2 seconds.  they are definately hot.

zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#5)
by SamoaPower on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 05:08:20 PM MST

zubbly,
I have to agree with Flux. In fact, I don't think I would want to stand too close to the caps when the wind is blowing hard.

Electrolytics have a maximum current rating called ripple current. They also have a maximum reverse voltage rating that is usually quite low (1.5V typ). In addition, they have a maximum temperature rise, also quite low (10C typ). Don't confuse this with temperature rating which is environmental.

I think you're exceeding all of these quite a bit. I looked up a 1000uF @ 200Vdc aluminum electrolytic. Ripple current was rated at 2.6 Amps at low frequencies.

I think you're fortunate in not having blown one up yet. At a minimum, their lifetime would be drastically reduced.

Here's the right way to use them for AC in series-parallel:



The balancing resistors are necessary because the caps are not usually matched very well. 10k-20k should be okay. The diodes should have a PRV rating at least equal to 2x your max output RMS voltage and should be able to handle the line current.

Generally, if you can feel the caps getting warm, you have a problem.

Good luck with it.




Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#6)
by SamoaPower on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 05:13:10 PM MST

That's "... I WOULDN'T want to stand too close ..."


[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#9)
by electrondady1 on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 06:53:59 PM MST

zubbly thanks for posting this .
back in sept the experiments you did indicated that you were only getting about half the amps through the capacitor system and i thought you had abandoned this method.
it's very encurageing to me to see you carry on and get it working right .
those same  winds are blowing here on georgian bay just like over there by ottawa.

[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#45)
by zubbly on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 10:25:38 AM MST

 hi electrondady1,

back in september, i had a limited number of capacitors to work with.  just needed more of them. i had to wait almost 3 weeks for the ones i ordered to come in.

zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#10)
by zubbly on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 06:59:44 PM MST

hi SamoaPower,

i appreciate your comments and suggestions.  i guess you have figured out by now that my electronic skills suck  :)    but i am happy that you have shown a way to do it with a little more safety in mind. i am sure this info will be very useful for anyone else doing a similar setup.

a few questions if you don't mind.

#1  if i was using AC motor run capacitors, would you still suggest using the diodes and resistors in the fashion you show in your diagram?

#2  i am using 6 caps per phase, so would i use diodes and resistors per every 2 caps that i have back to back (6 diodes and 6 resistors per 6 capacitors)?

#3 for the 10K-20K resistors, what wattage would you suggest?

thanks,
zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#15)
by SamoaPower on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 09:57:36 PM MST

#1 For non-polarized capacitors, the diodes are not needed. They are there just to protect against reverse voltage for polarized caps. I would still use the resistors for non-polarized caps if used in series. These tend to equalize the voltage across each cap. The two resistors across two series caps would be the same value if the caps are equal in value. For unequal caps it's more complicated.

#2 Yes. I just showed the simplest series-parallel combination.

#3 Two watt (or more) resistors should be okay.

Obviously, non-polarized (motor) caps are the simplest arrangement if used singularly or in parallel but you still have to watch the current rating.

I think the biggest issue you have with the present polarized caps is the probable (you should look it up) ripple current rating. Diodes and resistors won't help that problem. For your arrangement, I would want a ripple current rating of 8 Amps or better for each cap.

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#16)
by dinges on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 11:36:51 PM MST

I was going to ask about those diodes too. Had never seen them before. The equalization resistors, however, are common in series-circuits of polarized caps. Didn't know they were also necessary when mounting caps back-to-back. The way you explain it, the diodes make sense.

As far as ripple current rating goes: another term for it is ESR, Equivalent Series Resistance. Specified in [ohm]. The power dissipated in caps (remember, only ideal caps don't dissipate power...) is

P = I^2 * ESR

with I=ripple current [A]
ESR [ohm]
P=power [W]

The lower the ESR, the better: it means the cap can handle more current (I) without overheating (high P).

(sorry to bother you with all them fancy math, Z ;)  )

ESR of caps is a pet peeve of mine. Caps are notoriously unreliable, guaranteed life of about 8000 hrs. When they fail, capacity usually stays the same. However, ESR goes up dramatically. Wasn't until I had built a small ESR meter I realized how unreliable electrolytic caps were. The good thing is: one can test caps without having to desolder them!

A good & cheap meter is available as a kit from here:

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/esrmeter.htm

I've built a different one, from scratch, but it works the same. Use it more than my DMM when repairing equipment...

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#27)
by SamoaPower on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 08:53:35 AM MST

Hi Peter,

See further on down for more on diodes.

Even though there is a relationship, ESR isn't really an equivilent term for the ripple current rating. There are other factors that go into the current rating.

The limiting end result is internal core temperature. The whole thermal model has to be considered. It's surprising to me that the permitted temperature rise is so low.

Other factors about ESR that needs to be considered is how it changes with frequency, temperature, applied voltage and age.
 

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#28)
by ghurd on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 09:06:11 AM MST

Any ideas about Ed's voltage doubler?
I would like to try it at about 0.5 to 1A.  Are small motor start caps suitable?
I figured polarized electrolytic caps can't be current rated like this?
G-
Ghurd.info
[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#18)
by Flux on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 01:24:58 AM MST

In this simple case the resistors are not necessary, there is nothing to share, those two capacitors are not in series, they only have capacitance in one direction.

If you have 2 in series per side to double the voltage rating then the resistors are needed.

You can link all the common points and use one pair of diodes, but it may be simpler to use small diodes per pair than use large diodes to handle the total current.

As far as I can see the capacitance is not halved and this is effectively the same as the scheme proposed with capacitors in parallel with series diodes.

If the reverse breakdown is lower than 1 diode drop the parallel idea may be better.

I don't think the issue of resonance between the capacitors and the alternator leakage reactance is a serious one as I think the load resistance will damp it.

You are however almost certainly running at that point and it wouldn't hurt to measure the AC volts across a capacitor unit to check that this is not an issue.

Ripple current is likely to be an issue and you have helped by raising the load resistance. I wonder if you can use a changeover contactor to take the capacitors out on windy days and just leave them in when needed to prevent stall in lower wind.

I don't think I would short them out as that would result in nasty current surges, using changeover contacts should keep this to manageable values. In this case it may be worth keeping the resistors across the capacitors to act as discharges so that when you reconnect the capacitors they have no volts.

This simple scheme is difficult to use with low frequencies where you need large capacitor values. Anyone with a 4 pole conversion would probably find it requires too much capacitance.
Flux

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#21)
by Ungrounded Lightning Rod on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 03:09:45 AM MST

You don't need the diodes because the asymmetric leakage of the capacitors does the same job.

You don't need the balancing resistors because the capacitors are clamped at zero volts by their leakage and can not charge higher than the peak-to-peak voltage of the genny.  Balancing resistors are for situations where you're seriesing capacitors to achieve a higher voltage rating than the individual capacitors, and you need the resistors to keep a leaky or oversized capacitor from putting an excessive voltage across another capacitor in the string.

You also don't WANT resistors across the capacitors - either as a balancer or as a safety discharger.  They will DESTROY your seriesed capacitors - soon if you don't have the diodes, later if you do.  Such resistors drain the polarizing charge, which must be continuously made up by reverse current on the reverse voltage peaks.  Such current causes the dilectric surface of the capacitor to degrade - and you'll get a reverse bias and some reverse current even with the diodes in place, due to the diode bandgap voltage drop.

On a non-polarized electrolytic it's OK to use a resistor across the WHOLE CAPACITOR, and use balancing/discharging resistors across each of a set of non-polarized electrolytics that are in series to achieve higher voltage.  But when each of your non-polarized electrolytics is built out of a series pair of polarized electrolytics, that means the resistor is across the PAIR of 'em.  You DON'T connect anything else to the common terminal between them (unless you want them to explode, as descirbed above.)  And even with the system shut down and the PAIR as a UNIT discharged, the center terminal will be charged to half the peak-to-peak voltage until that leaks away, perhaps weeks later.  (You can't leak it away with a resistor because the leakage current is also "rot current" for the capacitor.)

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#26)
by SamoaPower on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 08:28:21 AM MST

While it is true that the generally accepted model of an electrolytic includes the equivalent of a zener diode across the capacitance, using this to conduct reverse current is only suitable for momentary applications such as motor starting.

Continuous, sizable currents will result in hydrogen generation and internal pressure build up, ultimately leading to failure. Parallel external diodes prevent this.

Actually, electrolytics are not very well suited to AC applications at all. Their large dissipation factor causes excessive heating and short lifetimes. Their non-polarized use as starting capacitors depends on intermittent use to survive. Motor run capacitors usually use a different technology.

I have to disagree with your discussion on balancing resistors. Yes, they do need to be used with the diodes for polarized capacitors. The large manufacturing tolerances in capacity and leakage currents make equal voltage division across seriesed caps problematical. As long as reverse voltage is below 1.5V, dielectric deterioration is minimal.


[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#30)
by Ungrounded Lightning Rod on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 10:28:11 AM MST

I have to disagree with your discussion on balancing resistors. Yes, they do need to be used with the diodes for polarized capacitors. The large manufacturing tolerances in capacity and leakage currents make equal voltage division across seriesed caps problematical.

The leakage current causes the polarizing voltage to rise until both capacitors are always zero-to-forward biased.  Then the effect of imbalance is for the smaller capacitor to control the polarizing, while the larger one is always zero-to-forward biased.  This is GOOD.

It also tends to equalize the capacitors over time, especially if they started out with the same geometry by being manufactured by the same company (even in different lots), by slightly thickening the dilectric on the larger capacitor and reducing its capacitance.

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#7)
by alibro on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 05:23:39 PM MST

Hi Zubbly
Great stuff. I love to hear about a wind turbine which is working well. I am currently rebuilding mine although I don't expect anything like the results you are getting. As a novice I didn't realise you should put Caps across the phases. Could someone out there please explain what they do. Is it that you are not using batteries? If so is that the most efficient way to heat water? I am still undecided whether to use mine to heat water, run 12V lights and such or use an inverter to bring the voltage up to 240V and try to run part of the house from it.

Hope the wind doesn't cause too much damage on you. It's pretty quiet here at the minute

Cheers
Alister



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by RP on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 07:39:09 PM MST

The capacitors are not across the phases but rather in series with the heat elements.  You wouldn't need to do this with a battery charging system.

If you connect heat elements directly across a PMA, they act as a significant load when the blades first start to turn and can prevent the mill from ever getting started.  The capacitors really don't start to conduct until the frequency of the AC starts to climb.  Thus, it automatically unloads the alternator until the blades are spinning fast enough to not be stalled.  As the frequency rises the capacitors conduct more and more allowing more energy to be extracted.

Hope this helps.

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#13)
by RP on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 07:44:16 PM MST

Forgot to add:  With a battery charging system, the battery will not draw ANY power from the mill until the voltage out is higher than the battery voltage.  So the mill gets a chance to get spinning and start acting like a disc extracting energy from the air before there's any load on it.  Once the voltage exceeds the battery voltage, energy will be pumped into the battery.

[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#8)
by bj on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 05:52:07 PM MST

    We must live in a simalar wind area.  Smaller genny, but got
consistant 300 watts today.  Good luck.  And keep the faith.
    bj
bj--- Lamont, AB. Can.



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#14)
by David HK on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 08:18:03 PM MST

Zubbly,

Firstly well done.

Secondly, you are not using this board correctly.

Please write down the exact specification and anything else you can give us for motor cap specs.

Members of this board live in just about every country in the world and we therefore have access to all sorts of dumpsters, shops, closing down electronic companies to name a few.

If I can find some of what you want I would gladly post them to you gratis.

I think we all owe you something for your contributions.

Regards,

David HK



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#46)
by zubbly on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 10:31:06 AM MST

hi David,

no one here owes me anything.  we all contribute and look at all the great thought that is comming from everyone in reguards to this post and what we (and me) are all learning from it.

its all of us that make it a great place!

thanks everyone!
zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#17)
by GoodWind on Sun Oct 29, 2006 at 11:40:30 PM MST

Zubbly,

Try putting the capacitors in parrallel, each reverse biased from each other, with the diodes in series with them as blocking diodes. This will yeild twice the capacitance since you now have them in parallel vs the series configuration you are working at this time. It will actually be a dual half wave structure, since they are opposed and each will work with half the cycle.

Another idea is to create a bridge configuration, just like rectifiers, but with the electrolytics, and add the blocking diodes and stabilizer resistors accordingly. You might also consider bleeder resistors on the caps, if you get spikes from the half wave structure that this configuration creates.

I'd be intrested in waveforms from a scope as the current is raised with voltage and frequency. There  may be a resonant point in an RC reactance which is developed by the load.

This entire concept for heating is highly plausable, and will always produce output in proportion to the greater the wind that normally blows the heat out of the house.

Keep us posted, and the more information you enter, the more it is appreciated.




Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#20)
by Ungrounded Lightning Rod on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 02:47:13 AM MST

Try putting the capacitors in parrallel, each reverse biased from each other, with the diodes in series with them as blocking diodes. This will yeild twice the capacitance since you now have them in parallel vs the series configuration you are working at this time.

That will only conduct until the capacitors are charged - a cycle or two - and then it's an open circuit.  Capacitance will be no more than the stray capacitance of the back-biased diode, which is miniscule.

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#22)
by Flux on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 04:49:40 AM MST

Yes you are right on this one.

Thanks for clarifying the other issues about using dc capacitors back to back, that is the first rational explanation I have met.
Flux

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#35)
by Ungrounded Lightning Rod on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 01:16:03 PM MST

Glad I could help.

(Especially after all you've clarified for ME about power tech.  B-) )

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#23)
by tecker on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 05:42:36 AM MST

The caps should function to hold the load by it's over all resistance when the positive temp coefficient kicks it at a given temp  measure that (doesn't mattter what voltage source you use really It's such a predictable element) and you should be able to adjust the temp with the capacitance . There will be a wide range of VA comming in It would be very fine  to watch the elements ebe with the wind blowing very cool .Almost like the wind blowing a fire yes in deed very cool .



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#24)
by electrondady1 on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 06:28:11 AM MST

this is a tough one to follow unless you have a masters in electronic theary
in order to mimic what zubbly has done on a smaller scale would it be possible to ball park some sort of peramiters
i wondering about the ratio of resistance between the stator and the heating elements
as well as how to pick the value of the capacitors

[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#25)
by Flux on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 06:50:11 AM MST

The ratio of resistance of stator to heating elements determines the efficiency and also the stator heating.

The lower the stator resistance the better, but the higher the alternator cost.

At full power the capacitor reactance needs to be lower than the total circuit resistance so that full power goes to the load.

At lower frequencies capacitor reactance needs to be higher than total circuit resistance so the power into the heater is reduced. Reactive power in the capacitors does not load the alternator so it remains out of stall and delivering all the power it can produce.

I doubt that you can get a perfect loading but most heating is a high wind operation so as long as you can start when there is useful heat available then it will be good enough.

The real pain is the low frequency of conventional alternators at low speed and the need for large capacitors.

With motor conversions it is difficult to justify more than 12 poles, but air gap axials could be built with many more poles.
Flux

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#31)
by BigBreaker on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 10:43:46 AM MST

I have been thinking about this very issue recently.  It seems like alternators with more poles and more smaller magnets are the way to go.  Almost everything about power elctronics gets easier at higher frequencies.

This configuration of course means a larger rotor to fit all those poles.  Most axial air gap alts on this board seem to go with thick, solid rotor plates.  I'd like to see an axial alt with a lighter build, smaller gap, more poles and smaller magnets.  The issue seems to only be structural IE mass = strength.  Thick plates equals strength so that's the default solution.

What about building a light, large diameter air gap axial with lots of poles?

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#49)
by zubbly on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 01:57:25 PM MST

hi Electrondady1,

i don't have a masters in anything. anyone can hace good results with a little work and patience.

my math skills are kind of simple and not really good enough for calculating the capacitors with the info from and readings from all related parts that will be working.

Dinges from the IRC chat line did most of the calculations based on what i had to work with. he was quite close in what he formulated for the capacitors.
i have spoken with him, and he may post some simple formulas to help us with this type of projects.

zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#32)
by SmoggyTurnip on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 10:53:23 AM MST

"i am measuring wattage by taking volts x amps x 1.73.  "

Is this right?  I thought it would be volts X amps /1.73.

It is the line voltage you are measuring isn't it?

.
The sooner you start the longer it takes.



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#33)
by Flux on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 11:23:00 AM MST

Zubbly's method is right.

Power in a balanced 3 phase load is root3 x V line x I line for resistive load.

You can work it out per phase and multiply by 3 for the star or delta case, but it is generally easiest to measure line current and volts.
Flux

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#34)
by SmoggyTurnip on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 12:19:12 PM MST

OK now I see ...  I was thinking of the power in one phase.

What I have been doing is measuring line voltage, then

Phase voltage = (Line voltage / root3)

Power = 3 X (phase voltage) X (phase voltage) / R

This way I only need to take one measurement (line voltage).

.

The sooner you start the longer it takes.
[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#36)
by Devo on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 04:36:27 PM MST

I was playing with the heating element out of a dryer & I notice the longer the  piece of element the faster the prop would turn with the element as a straight short after the rectifiers to convert the AC to DC, no capactitors involved.

Could the elements be cut to a length that allowed the prop to "spin" free up to whatever rpm without capacitors?

Just curious

Devin



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#37)
by willib on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 06:43:05 PM MST

 its the diodes that allowed your machine to start
because your machine will freely spin till they start conducting
and yes the longer the heating element , = more resistance , the faster your prop will spin
Zubbly could have done it that way , but i think he was trying to eliminate the diode losses ?
Interesting solution Mr Zubbly



Carpe Ventum (seize the wind) One needs faith in the future
[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#38)
by zubbly on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 08:14:12 PM MST

hey everyone!

thanks to you all who have put much thought into what i am doing. it seems that i have opened a can of worms, but a good can of worms it is. i don't think there has been much work done in this area and it certainly seems to be a good discussion ground with many good opinions and ideas for this combination of gen/caps/heating.

well none of the capacitors have blown up yet :)

i took many measurments today as the wind was still very good but not as severe as yesterday.

just to review some info in case some people do not have it all.
the gen is a converted 7.5hp motor. it is a 12 pole unit that produces 240 volt AC at 600 rpm. it is currently connected 1 star with line to line resistance of 2 ohm.

the element heating bank consists of 6 elements. originaly, 3 elements were connected delta and the other 3 elements were connected delta and paralelled with the other delta. rating is 18 kw at 208 volt 3 phase.

i was running 1100 MFD per phase  with 3 elements connected delta, but capacitors were getting hot.

during yesterdays wind storm, i had 1650MFD per phase with 6 elements connected 2 star. the capacitors now ran only slightly warm to the touch. the mill did seem to experience a slightly harder time starting up from zero rpm.

  1. elements connected 1 delta 8.6 ohm
  2. elements connected 2 delta in paralell 4.6 ohm
  3. elements connected 1 star  25 ohm
  4. elements connected 2 star in paralell 13.5 ohm
there is now a total of 6 capacitors per phase. 2 capacitors back to back and 3 of those sets in paralell per phase.

the caps are:
MEPCO/ELECTRA

  1. DC112T200BMA1
  2. MFD 200WVDC
  3. -8237          I googled, but could not come up with a spec sheet for these caps
here is what i have found after sitting there in front of the caps taking measurements today. the measurements were very hard to get as the AC was quite wild with all the wind gusts.

#1 the AC voltage across the output terminals of a pair of caps back to back was 25% of the incomming voltage of the gen. at 75 volt and more from the gen, the terminal voltage of the caps dropped to 20% of incomming gen voltage.

#2 the current measured between the caps and heating elements was approx 1/2 of that measured on the incomming gen lines.

#3 at approx 100 volt incomming from the gen, the input and output current to the elements becomes approx the same.

#4 there are 3 sets of 2 caps back to back per phase. each set seems to measure 1/3 of total current per phase to elements.

i have now removed the caps from service until the more experienced electromics people seem to agree on a proper way to use these caps for my purpose.  no point blowing up some caps if it is avoidable.

i have now resorted to my original way of controling the gen to heating elements with contactors and voltage relays.  it works well, but not as "slick" as with the capacitors.

the wattage on the higher end of the voltage scale seems to be identical if i am using the caps or the relay controls.

this has been quite a learning curve for myself and i am sure for quite a few of you. my electronic knowledge is limited so it takes me a while to absorb and understand all the explanations and suggestions from everyone.

again, thank you to everyone for all your thoughts and knowledge sharing. i hope between all of us that we can come up with a good simple way of using caps for heating purposes.

my method of calculating and matching up heating elements/gen/cpacitors/connections is based somewhat on my own knowledge and an awful lot of try this, try that, record results, analyze, try and get closer to ideal.

its been a lot of fun and enjoyment.

thank you all,
zubbly



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#39)
by SamoaPower on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 09:14:47 PM MST

zubbly,
I don't understand #2. As I understand the scheme, it's a series circuit, generator to caps to resistors. Current has to be the same measured at any junction. Is this a clue?

[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#41)
by Flux on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 12:22:50 AM MST

I don't follow that either. The other points all make good sense.
Flux

[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#42)
by zubbly on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 09:27:12 AM MST

hi Samoa,

last night i was tired and was just trying to hurry up typing the further update. i read #2 now and don't understand it myself. please disreguard it.

i think what i was trying to say at the time was that at lower rpm, i see the voltage comming up much faster than the output current. above 50 volt from the gen, the current seems to come in line much more with the further voltage increase. above 75 volt, i then see a much sharper rise in current. i think this sort of reflects the theory well with how the caps work giving little load on the gen until things get rolling then all seems to come together (if you follow me there, my choice of words to explain is sometimes not the best)

maximum output in both voltage and current seem to be the same if using the capacitor method or relay method on this set up.

hope this cleared up #2

zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#40)
by GoodWind on Mon Oct 30, 2006 at 11:38:31 PM MST

Thanks for the time and patience with all the posting Zubbly,

You mentioned: "the element heating bank consists of 6 elements. originaly, 3 elements were connected delta and the other 3 elements were connected delta and paralelled with the other delta. rating is 18 kw at 208 volt 3 phase."

I'm interested in a specific focus on the heating elements:

Are they all totally identical ? Are you working with nichrome ? IF not, how are you trimming the resistance, with taps on a string in series ? Is there any inductive reactance in the structure of the heating elements, which would interact with the overall LC balance and disrupt it ? At what point is it identical to when it's direct connected with relays, and is there a point with the capacitors where the peak efficiency is surpassed with over voltage and or frequency ? Also, what is the shift in the internal resistance of the elements from the cold to the hot state of the elements ?

Once the aspects of the generator and the conductive path are optimized, the load is the root of all the output and the most crucial component of the system.

You also mention "originally" above, but do not indicate that there is something that is varied from this original structure.

Let us know the temperature ranges that are being produced and occuring, both at the element and how it's helping to heat the building.

DG


[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#43)
by zubbly on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 10:20:17 AM MST

hi DrGoodWind,

the heating bank is a commercial 3 phase heating unit.  it is normally inserted into the air duct system where the air is constanly moving over it.

it is nichrome wire. there is a total of 6 identical elements. each element has a resistance of 12.6 ohm.

originally to get the 18 kw rating, 3 elements are connected in delta, and the other 3 are also in delta, then paralelled. this makes a 2 delta configuration with all the elements. the resistance between lines of the original 2 delta configuration is 4.6 ohm.
 each element sees 100% of the 208 volt if used as intended originally.

my gen and prop does not have the capability to run the unit with that low of a resistance. so the alternative to make it usable is to re-connect the elements to get a higher resistance. by connecting both sets in star configuration, 2 star, it raises the resistance to 13.5 ohm. each element will now only see 58% of the line voltage from the gen. my system peaks out at approx 150 volt when fully furled. so 58% of 150 volt is 87 volt. each element will now only see 87 volts maximum.

87 volt divided by 208 volt times 8kw = 3.346 kw.  my system with performance of the gen and prop should produce 3.346 kw. i have measured a max of 3 kw and really do not expect to see an increase as the tail is fully furling at this point.  still rather close to calculations in my opinion though.

i have not measured the resistance of the elements once they get hot. but i do expect that the resistance goes up as they get hot, so would expect this is part of the reason for not meeting the 3.346 kw calculation.

for an element expected to to originally get 208 volt, and only sees 87 volt, you cannot expect it to get any wheres near as hot as intended. there is a small inspection window on the face where all the terminals are. i did open it and put my finger in there. i did not get burnt, but could only keep my finger there for about 2 seconds.

the whole idea of this project is to produce extra heat to try and cut back on my heating oil consumption. it will help, but how much remains to be known yet.

also keep in mind that this system is by no means perfect or even close to. it is made up of a pile of salvaged junk and basically you do the best with what you have to work with.



until we come up with a solution which everyone seems to accept as safe, and i can get a spec sheet on my capacitors, i have gone back to the contactor and voltage relay system. it does work well, but not as nice as the capacitors do.


basically, a voltage relay sences when the gen is at approx 80 volt, it then trips a contactor and engages 3 of the elements that are connected star. if voltage climbs to  a 100 volt, another voltage relay trips a second contactor and engages the other 3 elements connected star. if the voltage drops to approx 35 volt, the second set of elements drop out and the first set drops out at approx 20 volt. it then starts all over again. i am using all ac coils in the relays and contactors but have rectified the control voltage to dc. this stops all the chatter associated with low volt and low freq ac. the coils of the contactors run hot, but seem to settle at a certain temp and none have burnt out so far. the beauty of the capacitor methos is to do away with all the controls. all the contactors is also salvaged junk and again am using what i have collected.

on max output, both systems seem to be equal as far as output goes.

hope this clarified a most of your questions,
zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#52)
by RP on Wed Nov 01, 2006 at 04:10:25 PM MST

"87 volt divided by 208 volt times 8kw = 3.346 kw"

Zubbly, I'm not sure about this.  Power is defined as the square of the voltage dived by resistance.

Watts = Vsq/R (volts squared diveded by resistance)
8000 = (208X208)/5.4ohms  (5.4 is probabaly the "hot" resistance of the nichrome)

In your case you have:
(87X87)/13.5ohms =560watts

This may be why I was surprised earlier that your duct air was only slightly warmer than room temperature.

Can somebody else check my figures?

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#47)
by dinges on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 11:09:22 AM MST

On Zubbly's request I have written up a short explanation on how we calculated how much capacitors he roughly needed.

First of all, the idea is to have twice the resistance of the heater bank at cutin speed. That is, when it cuts in, the generator sees only half the load it sees at full speed. This is not a fixed rule, btw, but a recommendation or rule of thumb from someone to Zubbly in an earlier thread on the 7.5HP genny.

Since Z's heater bank was (originally) 25 ohm, we want the caps to exhibit a 'resistance' (in reality, a reactance, Xc) of 25 ohm as well, at the cut-in frequency of 200 RPM (20Hz) (my figures may be slightly off, I'm doing this all from memory a month after the facts...)

We are determing the capacity needed PER PHASE, so, we need to know the resistance of the heater per phase as well. In this case, R = 4.6 * 1.73 = 8 ohm.

Xc = 1 / (2* pi * f * C)

with f =20 Hz (200 RPM in Zubbly's case)
C = unknown capacity
Xc = 25 ohm (the reactance of the caps; 'must' be the same as resistance of the heater bank)

plugging in these values we get:

8 = 1/ (2 * 3.14 * 20 * C)

after a bit of calculations we get the result

C = 1000uF

This is for the situation in 2-delta (total resistance 4.6 ohm; resistance per phase 8 ohm). From memory, I recall that we ended up at 1500uF when we performed this calculation about a month ago. We may have used slightly different numbers, but you should get the idea.

We haven't taken into account here any line resistance; a lot of line resistance would lower the capacity requirement.

Also, this is NOT an exact calculation that yields a 'correct' answer; there's lots of room for variation and it will still work fine. This calculation gives a rough ballpark figure for how much capacity is needed. And, it's based on the assumption that at cut-in the reactance of the caps should be the same as the resistance of the heater. But, .5 times, 1.5 or 3 times may be other valid values... Who is to say what is the perfect amount ?

As stated, it gives a ballpark figure from where one can start experimenting, as Zubbly is doing. In the latest situation he now uses about 1600 uF per phase, and his resistance of the heaters is now (in star & paralleled) about 8 ohm per phase (13.5/1.73). (which is, incidentally, the same resistance as in the previous example)

Xc=1/(2*pi*f*C) = 1 / ( 2 * pi * 20 * 1600 E-6) = 5 ohm.

His reactance of the caps is in the new situation (with 1600uF & star/parallel heater) 5 ohm at cut-in speed, whilst his coil resistance (per phase) is 8 ohm. As a consequence, the generator will see a bit more load at cutin than in the original situation (1100uF). I understand from Zubbly's information that the genny doesn't speed up as well as it used to, at cut-in. The extra caps could explain this.

(I hope Zubbly is still reading this; he's not into this fancy math stuff anyway ;)  ) Again, the calculated results are just a ballpark figure. Everything stands with the initial assumption (how heavy should one load the genny at cut-in)

Questions? No questions.

class dismissed!



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#48)
by SmoggyTurnip on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 01:36:21 PM MST

Zubbly - Great project, thanks for taking the time to share your data.  I have a few questions...

Do you have any protection circuit in case the circuit goes open - ie heater burns out or capacitor burns out.  

Do you have a thermostat and a diversion load for the times when the room you are heating is too warm?

What is the resistance of one phase in your gennie?

Do you have any type of break or manual furling on your machine?

..

The sooner you start the longer it takes.



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#50)
by zubbly on Tue Oct 31, 2006 at 02:10:15 PM MST

ho Smoggy,

i have no fuses.  that way if i lost the fuses, the genny would be unloaded.

i don't think the elements could burn out.  the most each of the 208 volt elements will see with my current set up it 87 volt each, and if they did burn, what are the chances of all 6 elements burning out?

no thermostat needed. this large old house could never be overheated from the heating bank.  it is just to supplement the current heating system.

the connection of the generator is 1 star, and the resistance measuring line to line is 2 ohm.  if you remember the original post on making the gen, it has 24 lead wires comming from the winding.  i can connect it 1, 2, or 3 circuit, star or delta.  the 1 star circuit gives the highest output voltage of 240 volt at 600 rpm.

there is no manual furling on the machine.

i do have a switch at the base of the tower and one in the basement of the house to manually short the phases and shut it down if i need to.  but the furling system proved itself this weekend against severe wind.

i hope to make a much larger prop for it next year.  there is a short shaft comming out of the other end of the gen which i make make an electric brake for. a powerful electric break can be simply made by using a 3 phase electric motor and applying DC voltage to any 2 of the 3 output leads.

zubbly

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#51)
by Ungrounded Lightning Rod on Wed Nov 01, 2006 at 01:30:20 PM MST

One of the nice things about using wind power for heating is that a major component of heat loss is proportional to wind speed - and available power from the mill goes up faster than linear.  So the more you need, the even-more you have.  B-)

[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#53)
by SmoggyTurnip on Thu Nov 02, 2006 at 06:52:55 AM MST

"a powerful electric break can be simply made by using a 3 phase electric motor and applying DC voltage to any 2 of the 3 output leads."

Hmmm - this gets me thinking, could applying DC power to my axial machine be a stronger break than a dead short???

.

The sooner you start the longer it takes.
[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#57)
by Ungrounded Lightning Rod on Thu Nov 02, 2006 at 07:46:14 PM MST

It will increase the cogging and MAY tend to weaken the magnets (though neos have a notoriously high coercivity).  It won't do any significant extra braking, though the cogging might hold it at full-stop once it's going slow enough for other reasons.  (Think "stepper motor".)

Exception might be an induction motor conversion that used double-high magnets for poles of one polarity and retained the old rotor's pole pieces WITH the squirrel-cage aluminum for the other.  That might achieve some braking due to eddy currents in the retained chunks of the squirrel-cage as the DC field from the stator drags through it.  (I wouldn't do it, though, due to the heating in the rotor.)

The reason that DC into an induction motor makes a brake is that the fixed mag field creates a massive set of eddy currents in the rotor, which tries to drag itself down to the speed of motion of the field (which is zero).  As it slows down the eddy currents drop.  So it's very much like fluid friction.  All the energy of motion - the "heat from the brake's friction" - ends up as heat in the rotor.

If you want an electric brake, why not mount an UNconverted induction motor behind your genny and run some DC through that?  B-)

= = = =

A little DC through the stator IS good for melting off ice after a silverthaw jams your mill.  B-)  I wouldn't hang it straight across the battery, though, or at least not for very long.  Resistors (like headlights) are your friends.

[ Parent ]



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#55)
by asheets on Thu Nov 02, 2006 at 11:05:28 AM MST

Perhaps I missed it (I've been off the board for awhile)... but what are the caps for?
_____________________________

Alan Sheets



Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#56)
by chux0r on Thu Nov 02, 2006 at 12:40:07 PM MST

Thank you for asking that question.  I'm lost out of my mind, too.

[ Parent ]


Re: 7.5hp Update! Wild Winds (3.00 / 0) (#58)
by GoodWind on Fri Nov 03, 2006 at 10:11:14 PM MST

Zubbly: Consider turning this into an L/C/R circuit and creating some power factor tuning. With the proper reactor in series with the C and R (load) The phase angles can be configured to have zero voltage on the C and L and excess or multiplied voltage on the R, which would be ideal here.

I used to work with this on single phase configurations at one time, but never tried it with three phase.

Utility companies use concfigurations with in Line Capacitors and inductors with the three phase lines and on substations to help balance lines and nodes in voltage on long grid runs. The R was the line which is miles of internal wire resistance. The frequency is fixed at 60 cycles, made it easy to offset standing waves and nodes where there were voltage peaks and dips over portions of the grid.

Excellent pictures and collections of relays and so on. I need a junk source link this.




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