It's much easier and cheaper to replace the cfls!

One thing I would recommend though:
Rectify and smooth the output from your cheapo inverter, and then distribute the resulting high voltage DC for your lighting circuits. Why? For a start, the output from these cheap inverters is terrible - noisy and full of harmonics which will make your CFLs buzz annoyingly and shorten their life. Also, distributing the output from a cheap inverter over any distance will cause a lot of problems with EMC (i.e. the wiring will radiate lots of nasty RF hash, creating a very electromagnetically noisy environment, which will be heard on TVs, radios etc...

I haven't seen a decent (or even slightly better than junk) Mini-Inverter since the Notepower 50.  Some of the China Name Brands (50 to 75 or 100W?)didn't last 8 hours with a 3~4W load 9W peak, most didn't last a couple days.

Name Brand DC CFLs are worth the price.  They are brighter AND use less power (conservation anyone?). They are available in a couple temperature color ratings. They last an order of magnatude longer too. Well worth the $20.  I only know of one name brand and it's German.  The 11W is my choice over the 7W.
You get what you pay for.

Hard wiring the inverter downstream of the switch will kill most switches.

Wow how cheap the small inverters are! I will buy a couple to play with. Already have a bid in.

10 years ago I bought a cheap 150w inverter, kept it plunged into the vehicle to power my cell phone. ($35 for cell charging adapter at the time) For $30 I got the inverter which powered my laptop also. Lasted about 9 months. Bought a different brand Vector, 150w. It to lasted 9 months. Then bought a 300w vector. After a year I got a new cell phone with car charger thus stopped using it. I now use it for backup lighting power. Bought a second for keeping in the car to power laptops.

Two problems with the DC CFL:
-they are too small in watts.
-Lumins per watt are 80% what a 110v CFL is.

11W may be better than a candle, to light up a large room 23W is the minimum, very hard to find in 12v model or costly at $20 plus shipping. Lumens per watt goes up as the wattage increases. I like the idea of bypassing the AC section of the inverter, little surgery required. Thanks for the info.

I plan to put the inverter at the lamp, switch up stream for zero quiescent current.
I was talking to a friend about electrifying his hunting lodge. They use propane lighting not good in the summer. Entry way wanted a 12v CFL, then get to switch for main 300w inverter for rest of the lodge.
Two golf cart batteries and 30w solar panel + charge controller to charge it up between visits.

• there isn't much inside, see photos below
• it ran a 4W night-light bulb rather dimly
• after 2 hours of that the heat sink on the power transistor got quite hot
• it could not start up a 15W CFL - brief flash, then only an audible whine.

A CFL should in theory be able to light and stay lit on just 30 volts which is  something else to consider.