Sorry I didn't get right on it. Its been very busy here.
As per the GE ECM. My best thinking is to seperate the star conection, add a wire to each sperated wire. Now you have a wire connection for the start and end of each phase.
Now connect a full wave bridge rectifier to each phase, then perelell the bridges DC outputs.
The ECM in the stock 3 wire mode (star) works great at 24 volts, the above mode works great for the 12 volt mode. 3 bridges is much easyer than 18. NO Transformers!
You can get 6 wire 14ga. cable at the auto parts store. It looks like a black extension cord, its used for trailer light wire. This works good for 6 wires down to the ground for 3 rectifier bridges on the ground. It will handle any power the ECM will make.
AS per the Garbogen. I've actully been working on several upgrades. As per the wireing scheem. For 24 volt make no wireing changes. Use a fullwave bridge on the start windings, a fullwave bridge on the run windings then perelell the DC outputs of the bridges.
There again you could use the 6 wire trailer cable and place the bridges at the tower base. Just use 2 of the wires for the low amperage start windings then double up the other 4 for the high amperage run windings.
12 volt requiers some wireing mods. Make a brake in the sires connections between run coil 2 and 3.
Connect the start of run coil #1 with the start of run coil #3. Then do the same for the ends of coils #1 and #3. Now you have the run windings conected sires/perelell. Connnect to the bridges, then repeat this for the start coils. And yes perelell the bridges DC outputs.
The solid steel armature produces about 10% more power then an AC motor armature.
The original armature is not use, its to short for the magnets, the shaft is to short to connect a blade to and its not solid steel. Save it though its fun to use in GM car alt mods.
Yes 3" diameter matches the magnet and motor stator bore requierment but only 1.75" lingth, that matches the lingth of the NTL and the old #29S. If there was a shorter curved NEO to match the stator that would be fine also but I've never found one.
The Garbogen stator is only 1&3/8" long so the 1&3/4" magnet lingth iliminates front to rear cenetering problems. A littel extra magnet doesn't hurt.
As far as shaft diameter is concerned the thicker the better. I'm currently useing 3/4" diameter shafts and may make a 1" shaft expirementle? But I've used as small as 1/2"
I've made a # of diferant end caps. My current and I think the best is made from Choice deck, the composistion (plastic/wood) deck matierial. I just cut a round out with a router jig, then bore a propper size hole for the bearing. I add a spacer on the blade end and use 2 bearings on that end. I pop speaker magnet pole pieces apart and use the chassis end as a bearing retainer. Use shaft coulers to keep thing centered.
All this makes for a very rugged and realiable machine.
I lost my cammera, as soon as I get a replacement I'll try to get some pictures up of the new upgrades.
As far as blades. I've only flown the "Jerry Blades" on the Garbogen. However I hope to evaluate my Garbogen and Hughs 4ft genny both with my "Jerry Blades", PVC blades and a set of Hughs 4ft carved wood blades in my wind tunnel some time this sommer.
That will be an intresting report. Should be alot of pictures and test results.
That one will be a diary.
I think I've covered your questions? Please ask more if I've over looked something.
JK TAS Jerry
