Maybe you could raise the pump higher in the well.

His solution was to dig a pit 12 feet deep 20 feet from the creek.
then he installed a 36" tube with holes in it  and filled around the tube
with rock pea gravel and sand about 10 feet out from the pipe.
and installed a pump inside the tube. this has worked very well for about 12 years now.

the filter system has a UV filter on it along with filters ranging from 2 micron to .5 micron.

just a suggestion.

After 10 years replaced with High end Kenmore rated for 8ppm Iron, $650 1997.

Another 5 years, iron peaked out at 7-8ppm most of the year, spring time 9-10ppm.
Softener needed some help. Added $700 Kenmore Iron Filter. POS.
Not in use at this time.

If you have a tank for the well water, by bubbling air into it will cause the iron to come out and settle too bottom of tank. Yes, that easy!

The water tank needs to hold the water for 30 minutes or more for the chemistry to happen.

Can you measure the water volume ?.
You can use a RAM PUMP by the creek and fill the pipe and, as well, fill the tank above your house.

You do not need a tank if the stream runs continuously, if not then there are other tricks to make work and YOU DO NOT NEED ELECTRICITY and works day and night.

I have RAM PUMP designs that you could build yourself

To make sure what you want to do, including the hydro, please do detail all the aspects of both systems.

You can connect directly with me, correct my anti spam setting in my email address.

I agree with Ron on the rain system. A rain water system should work which would require guttering of a large roof area, large holding tanks(5000+ gallons), some monitoring/sampling and a pressure system. How well this works and how much holding capacity depends on rain and household usage but it is the best water. This system tends to catch more water than most folks would expect and works well for household use not yard use. Summer time use usually requires some chlorination especially if tanks are in the sunshine. You already have the filter system and may have an ozonation unit.

If the creek is good water go with your plan and pipe it to a holding tank with a float. No need to bury the tank unless it is to get the water to flow or keep it from freezing. Buried tanks run the risk of contamination in heavy rains so if you bury it avoid runoff influx also your intake at the dam may get muddy water etc during rain events. A cheap swimming pool kit and a little practice and you can keep the water chlorinated at 0.3-0.5 mg/l or use one of the small swimming pool systems that chlorinates as water is pumped(pressure pump for house) and set it for the amount of chlorination wanted. With your filter system you may have an ozonation unit which should replace the chlorine. The folks I know that use the ozonation systems tend to chlorinate every month or two to keep the lines clean as the ozone system has no residual.

Last suggestion is drill a shallow well by the spring where the creek starts and put pump there and just pipe it to the house. IF the well driller is worth his salt then he should be able to tell where to drill to hit the spring. This may be the best plan but requires extra drilling and electric lines. Electric company should set meter for pump and if some of the water is for farm use it may be a tax write off.

I think your plan will work.

We used to live on Vashon Island.  The house water supply was a small creek that originated a couple hundred feet above the house as some springs coming out of a steep bank.  This was our water supply, and it also supplied water via a pipe line to several houses below us.

The water from the springs/creek was collected in a concrete tank, and the pipes to the houses came off of the tank.

The county did not like the idea of the water being picked up after it seeped out of the bank because of the potential for contamination, and eventually we drove well points into the bank and piped the output from these to the concrete tank.  It does not take very much flow at all to supply a house when the incoming flow to the tank runs 24/7.

We had no trouble with either system -- the water always tested clean.

Our house was about 20 vertical feet below the concrete tank, and we just used gravity feed to supply the house plumbing -- no pumps at all.  20 vertical feet only gives about 9 psi, but as long as you run full diameter pipes right to the point of use, thats plenty of pressure, and it eliminates any need for a pump or pressure tank.

It sounds that your blessed with water options! In Canberra, Australia we're not so lucky with average rainfall of 650mm down to 400mm in dry years. If the creek runs continously then I'd be tempted to use this a your main water source, keeping the ground water as a backup.

Many people in AUS oxygenate bore or dam water to dissipate ionic iron for use on gardens and non-drinking applications with good affect. Everyone in my area collects rainwater from house and shed roofs, storing water in large plastic or concrete tanks. For my house we have a 20,000 gallon concrete tank with a pressure pump supplying the house. Our roof collection is approximately 330 metres square. The size of the water tank is dependant on your annual rainfall, frequency of rainfall, collection area and water usage requirements.

The downside to rainwater collection is that you need to have gutters, piping to your water tank and a pressure pump. In addition, the gutters need to be cleaned of leaves, dust/dirt and who knows what else! A water divertor is a great idea where the first 70 litres of water is not put into the tank. The storage of rainwater in a sealed, light free tank needs no special treatment for use, however I'd still recommend using a fine filter as a safeguard.

Your first job will be to re plumb the house if you can. water for toilets, showers and other non potable applications should be supplied by a separate cold line. Sinks and any other drinkable outlets need to be fed by a second cold water line as well as you hot water heater. You set up the filtration as follows.

Cold water enters the house and runs to a bank of whole house filters placed in parrallel with each other. Iron will tend to clog the filters fast unless you use three or more but they will stop the majority of the iron. From here you tee off and feed the toilets and other non-drinkable fixtures. After the tee off you run to your purification filters and then on to the rest of the plumbing. This arrangement will save you a bundle in the long run by reducing the amounts purified and preventing the worst of it from ever reaching the expensive filters.

If you cant split the plumbing you should still pre filter everything as whole house filters are a lot cheaper. Protect that 4000.00 filter with a little cheap insurance.

How much water are you using and what is the head of the stream to determine the type of ram pump you need to have (instead of an electric pump).

The best arrangement to capture water from the stream is to have an intake with a large screened area, in this case, holes around 1/8 inch or even less, laying down on the bed where the stream moves faster and always covering the screen for the water to take away the debris that may attach to the screen.

Make the screened area at least 50 to 100 times the pipe area, this way the water will enter the screen at low velocity which helps in not allowing the debris to hang on the screen if the water is covering it.

I have used Stainless steel Mesh, with 12 lines inch, this would clean the great majority of debris, then internally, use a woman nylon sock for ultra fine debris filtering, cheap and easy to replace at low cost.

This type of filtering, we have used for water pickups for rural homes and for small hydro electric systems with great results.

A better description of your stream with the head it may have, may assist to give you better indications for a Ram Pump to feed the water to a tank above the house and to have, this way, a pressurized water source to your home.

Place the purifying filtering system by the storage tank to avoid having the need to add a pump to have the necessary pressure.

WE normally make two sets, one working and one for cleaning and or replacement for cleaning the used one.

If you are running wire to the pump go with as small a pump as possible for the run and lift for flow wanted. If you just want to run pipe go with a jet pump with a foot valve(?) which will take 2 pipes in the trench. 1/2-1/3 hp pump if using a submersible pump at the creek remember to take into account voltage drop so use recommended wire size for a well as deep as the pipe run. A jet pump will take a little more hp 1/2 to 1 hp due to the pipe losses but may run about as cheap due to less wire losses.

Use a good screen filter at the creek with lots of area or fill barrel with coarse gravel bury it in the creek and use a slotted pipe in the middle. What ever you use it must filter out anything that might hurt the pump. Your home filter system will take care of anything else.

Good luck and when Momma ain't happy nobody is happy either.