The way to power these off the measurement is to use a series regulator.  If you are monitoring a 12-V battery bank, just regulate down to 9 volts.  Current drawn is so little that you probably wouldn't even need to turn it off.  It's probably below the self-discharge rate of most 100 AH lead-acid batteries.  The regulator will need no heatsinking at this low current, so it can just be stuck in the space where the 9V battery used to go.

I agree about the cheapness of the probe leads.  That is one of the "flaws" that I sometimes find in initial checkout.  The lead will become open-circuited or intermittent at one end or the other after a little bit of rough use.  Luckily, the connectors on the meter accept standard banana plugs, so you can hook up with jsut about anything.  The other flaw I sometimes see is dark patches on the LCD display.  Doesn't affect the measurement, but it's a cosmetic defect.  You have 30 days to exchange any defectives, that's why I recommend checking them all as soon as you get them home.

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by Bruce S (bruce(dot)stahl <at>gmail (dot)(com)) on Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 at 01:12:52 PM MST
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uh , no I wouldn't try powering those from the device(;-))
There's a 9V'er in there. cheapo but it'll last about a week of steady use.
The directions that come with it, say to use of equal or better battery.
They are Nice though.
The cables, if you twist them, too many time will come off at the instlated end, cheapo alligator clips from same store will work to repair :-)

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by KilroyOdin on Fri Oct 3rd, 2008 at 01:52:12 PM MST
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The only common problems I have had is low factory batteries, and issues with the leads melting somewhere between 25 and 150A when testing battery voltage while the meter is set to 10A.  And that is why I use them (only $3 per major operator malfunction).