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Copper Bar
By jzeveney, Section Storage Posted on Thu May 8th, 2008 at 09:54:42 PM MST
Copper barstock is available unfinished and pre-silver plated finish?

Hi All
Easy question I hope. I'm expanding my battery bank and was wanting to go with Copper bar for connecting inplace of the Wire stubs you can buy at a battery store.
I notice the bar comes in either unfinished or pre-silver pladed finish. Does it matter which one I use?
Thanks,
Z

Copper Bar | 13 comments (13 topical, 0 editorial)

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#1)
by terry5732 on Thu May 8th, 2008 at 04:52:30 PM MST
(User Info)

Silver wouldn't help with corrosion and plate wouldn't add much conductivity. I think what you want is 'tinned' which is solder covered. Old solder with lead would be better than the new all tin stuff.

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#2)
by jzeveney on Thu May 8th, 2008 at 08:52:26 PM MST
(User Info)

So regullare copper bar like this and tin it myself?
http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/copper-barstock--125-thickness-unplate d.html

Thanks,
Z

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#3)
by wooferhound (tim((NoSpamAt))wooferhound.com) on Thu May 8th, 2008 at 09:35:07 PM MST
(User Info) http://wooferhound.com

I don't know why you would care if it's tinned or not ?
but make sure it is insulated with electric tape or HeatShrink tubing.

W o o f -={(

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#4)
by finnsawyer on Fri May 9th, 2008 at 08:35:03 AM MST
(User Info)

While you're at it why don't you look for gold plated copper bars? Then you would never have to worry about corrosion. Of course, the Gold could rub off when you bolt down the bar. Come to think of it, the same could happen with silver. Forget the coating. It's not necessary for this kind of work.
GeoM

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#5)
by jzeveney on Fri May 9th, 2008 at 11:44:21 AM MST
(User Info)

Thanks guy unplated it is!

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#7)
by nothing to lose (nothingtolose175 at yahoo.com) on Fri May 16th, 2008 at 03:27:14 PM MST
(User Info)

"While you're at it why don't you look for gold plated copper bars? Then you would never have to worry about corrosion. Of course, the Gold could rub off when you bolt down the bar."

Thanks for the idea LOL
I have a gold plating setup and might try plating my terminals. I'll be using wire with homemade copper connections again. I hate cleaning connections and corrosion, just might be worth plating them. Though I think gold went up ALLOT since last time I bought plating solution, so maybe not cost worthy now?

Also, durring my absence from the site and lack of doing anything for so long, I forgot about 3 deep cycles wired up not being used for so many months. Funny thing, 2 of the store bought cable ends were actaully ate off the battery!
All my homemade ends from copper tubbing were fine, just corroded a bit and I just wired brushed them.
I think the store bought ones must have been cheap metal that was copper plated?? I think they came on the cables, I don't remember buying anything like that or installing them like that myself.
.
nothing to lose

Spelin and tpying are my strong points, not electronics.
[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#6)
by scottsAI (user name at eml dot cc) on Sat May 10th, 2008 at 12:45:29 AM MST
(User Info)

Jzeveney,

Verify this, Code requires the interfacing connection to be of the same material to prevent galvanic corrosion. Assumption is the terminals are lead, so the copper needs to be lead coated at the battery interface. (only required at the ends)

Even if code is not a worry, the issue makes since to lead coat the copper.

Insulate the bus bars, heat shrink tubing will do nicely.
I found some clear shirk tubing with mastic supposed to seal better.
Will polish the bars and tin ends. After I drill bolt hole.
Should look nice for a while!

My first copper was cylinder 5/16, planed to flatten ends.
Took 45 minutes to cold form the spade lug on both ends. And a sore arm.
Then bought 0.375 x 0.75 inch bars. Was too thick, should have gotten 0.25 max.
Had to drill out the nut area 0.125 inch.

Make sure to leave spacing between each battery, they swell with age. Quarter of an inch should be good (for golf cart, more for larger battery).

Battery pack is 48 volts, 8 golf cart batteries. Connected U shape with fuse in middle of string.

Have fun,
Scott.

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#8)
by jzeveney on Thu May 22nd, 2008 at 08:35:50 PM MST
(User Info)

Thanks Scott,
Well I purchased and install the 1/8 x 1".
I did drill and left about 1/2 to 1" space between bats.
I did not lead coat the interface. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend.
I really like the clean look the bars provide. Also much cheaper that buying the post connector with the female and male ends. I stared with those. Code about $150 bucks for those. I sold them to a golf course near me he could use them.

Thanks,
Again
I'll post pic tomorrow or this weekend the completed setup looks much cleaner.

ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#9)
by scottsAI (user name at eml dot cc) on Sun May 25th, 2008 at 09:34:56 AM MST
(User Info)

Jzeveney,

Great looking forward to the pictures, cool if you have a before and after shots.

I noticed you did not mention Insulating the bus bars.
You want to for two reasons.
Protect the copper, sulfuric acid eats copper. Your good looking bars will not look good after the first equalizing charge. http://jchemed.chem.wisc.edu/JCEsoft/CCA/CCA3/MAIN/CUNASID/PAGE1.HTM
The exposed bars are a shorting hazard or shocking hazard (if above 50v). Any metal tool dropped on top of battery... The wiring needs a fuse, so I used a 300a blade fuse in the middle string of batteries shaped in a U.

I also like the copper look, so found a clear shrink tubing with mastic as used in marine applications. Want the best seal to protect the copper. Cost $20 on eBay.

Looking into screwing a vent tube into the vent caps, this way I can keep the acid off the battery top and vent outside directly. Get the look of a sealed lead acid battery with flooded battery price!

Have fun,
Scott.

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#10)
by jzeveney on Tue May 27th, 2008 at 08:30:59 PM MST
(User Info)

I have not covered the bars yet. Inplace of shrink wrap I was thinking about using rubber bedline paint. Why you ask I have it. I've been to several stores no one has shrink wrap large enough for the 1" bus bar. I have a can on rubberize bed liner. Sorry I din't think of taking a before piture at the same angle but here is one I had.
Here's the before http://www.zeveney.com/images/B4.JPG
Bus Bars installed
http://www.zeveney.com/images/after.JPG

Inverter with DC ampmeter I picked up on Ebay.

http://www.zeveney.com/images/cool_ampmeter.JPG

I'll pull the bars this weekend. Melt lead on them for the interface to the batteries. Then wrap those with tape and spray paint the whole bar with the rubberized paint and repost those.

Z

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by jzeveney on Tue May 27th, 2008 at 08:32:59 PM MST
(User Info)

Re:
Looking into screwing a vent tube into the vent caps, this way I can keep the acid off the battery top and vent outside directly. Get the look of a sealed lead acid battery with flooded battery price!

Any pictures of how you achived this? Or is it as simple as it sounds drill and tap the caps?

Thanks, again
Z

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by scottsAI (user name at eml dot cc) on Wed May 28th, 2008 at 09:27:09 AM MST
(User Info)

Jzeveney,
Check out eBay Item number: 220237851009
1" ADHESIVE LINED BLACK 3:1 RATIO HEAT SHRINK TUBING 4'

Found clear for the bus bars and red and black for the wires. A bit costly but it made me happy just like switching to bus bars made you!

Offset the two rows of batteries so the series connection was straight for the series bus bar also. No cables except coming off to the inverter.
Solder only the bottom of the bus bar at the lead interface of the battery terminal.
Polish the bus bars before putting on the clear shrink.

Wanted my flooded battery to have all the benefits of SLA without the price or life limitations. Tipping over was not an issue...:-)

Venting
battery watering system:
http://www.homepower.com/article/?file=HP108_pg82_REview

Problem, it has two vent holes, so have not done it. At the time could get for $6 per cell, just looked now more costly. Darn should have bought it them!

Buy replacement vent caps before drilling holes.
My caps have an upside down U air path, drilling a hole may not work until the air path on the edge of the cap is blocked. Have not looked maybe vent tubing caps exist?

Have fun,
Scott.

[ Parent ]

Re: Copper Bar (3.00 / 0) (#13)
by blueyonder (windwoodgood at yahoo dot co dot uk) on Wed May 28th, 2008 at 04:19:48 PM MST
(User Info)

drilling holes . well you need think about a hand drill that wont have sparks at the brushes. your battery bank is looking good.
its a ill wind that dos no good

Copper Bar | 13 comments (13 topical, 0 editorial)

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