| My Polar Power lighting controller stopped turning on the night light so I've decided to upgrade my existing dump controller circuit to add that feature.
Since I made that one, I've learned to implement both the button input and LED output functions on a single pin; that creates a spare pin that I can connect to a logic-level FET for switching. The timing of the lighting control (or low voltage disconnect) will be programmed into the chip so I hope that there's no need for additional hardware.
The new schematic is here. While I've drawn the controller chip to show what each pin is used for, it is really a general purpose microcontroller, an ATMEL Tiny85, that I've programmed to do what I want.
I've made a few other changes, hopefully they don't undo any the good advice and help I got in making the existing circuit work:
- I've switched from using four discrete transistors as a FET driver (which worked great) to using a driver chip, an MCP1407... mostly because I was able to sample them from MicroChip and I have a few hanging around.
- I've put a low pass filter on the battery-string voltage sense line. I've never seen a problem with voltage sensing in this circuit but I did have problems with sensing it in my MPPT circuit so I put it in and hope it doesn't hurt here...
- I've added another battery connection for powering the board logic. I want to use LDO voltage regulators to minimize the current draw of the board and most of them have a max input of 20 or 25 volts. With separate battery connections and with proper choice of the output FETs, high side caps and diode, practically any voltage on the dump load can be accommodated. For 12 volt only operation, the second input could be jumpered to the battery string input. Otherwise it should be connected to a battery terminal about 12 volts up from ground. I'm hoping that it doesn't matter if the 12 volt supply browns out from low battery voltage because the FETs would never be turned on under that condition.)
- I've added a jumper for changing the input sensing voltage. (I wire my battery bank for 12 volts in the Summer and early Fall when winds are low and 24 volts otherwise.) All the voltage levels were programmable in the previous circuit; however, I frequently found myself hurried punching in the numbers to change voltages. The new controller will be programmed to model a single battery cell and then I use a voltage divider to scale the battery bank voltage down to one cell.
Well, there you have it... if anything looks stupid please let me know. I'm not an EE so I'm prone to ignorance about things which might be obvious to more experienced folk.
Thanks again,
- Ed. |
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