I found a few Pic's in your files and wondered how they worked out; Guyrotor, Guy2st, and BigS.  They were overlapping coils, how did this work out?

Are you allowed to have a wind-gen tower at your location? if yes, how high can you afford/or are allowed? (higher is better, MUCH better)

Once you determine how high a tower you can have, What kind of wind do you have up there? It might be useful to data-log a rough wind profile, then some suggestions and comparisons to existing systems can be made.

What kind of voltage do you want? 12/24/or 48 are the most common. None are "best", each has benefits and drawbacks. What do you want to do with the wind-gen voltage? Most charge a large battery pack (with a dump load for when the pack is full) then put the battery power through an inverter to get 120 VAC to run TV's and lights.

Magnets come in different strengths, the stronger the better, but stronger is more expensive. The strength of the magnets will affect the rest of the design. The invisible magnetic field is a set shape, the copper wire coils must fill that shape, but no extra. (copper is expensive, and any extra coil wire length that is "unfluxed" adds resistance with no added generation)

Since the magnetic flux shape is fixed, more wraps of thinner wire will provide a higher voltage at a lower RPM. Fewer wraps of thicker wire will be the same size, but provide lower volts, but can handle higher current.

Some enthusiasts make the two magnet rotors, and then insert one prototype coil to test for their target volts as they spin the rotors at their sites wind-gen RPM's. Once the proper wire and wraps "for your site and system" is determined, you can proceed to finish the stator.

Do you want to generate more from lower winds, or the higher winds at your site. If you choose poorly, the generator might overheat, or generate less power than what was possible.

At what RPM/wind speed do you want the unit to "cut-in" and begin producing power, at what RPM/wind-speed do you want it to furl away so it doesn't overheat or fly apart from excessive RPM's?

by placing several mags on an iron disk the flux will attempt to go sideways to the adjoining magnets.
by placing two such disks close together the flux is forced to travel across
the air gap

all we are doing here is manipulating the path and shape of the flux in order to increase it's density and allow us to harvest it's power .

the hole in the coil should be the same size as the magnet.

mag spacing is the term used to describe the area between magnets on a single disk

it is usually the same width as the magnet.

You will find none of this information at basic level, commercial engineering doesn't use this type of alternator and there is virtually no basic data on it. The early work was done by Ferranti, Mordey, siemens and a few others but not with permanent magnets.

The idea lay dormant for about 100 years until magnet technology caught up. Virtually everything you find will be empirical and most of it will be on this site and those few others I and others have pointed you to.

There is no absolute criteria on coil size in relation to magnets or magnet spacing or anything else it is all a compromise. The thing you will learn if you succeed is that volts don't equate to power out and some things that compromise volts actually result in lower winding resistance and give other benefits.

It's all here somewhere the good ( and unfortunately the nonsense).

If you want to start from basic maths then consider the power you need, the wind you have available. There are equations for energy in the wind and it is fairly well documented as to what fraction you can get ( try klemen's site if I didn't link it before). when you know what you need and have available then you are in a better position to worry about things like coil shape and magnet size.

Remember that the thing that best defines a wind turbine is it's swept area, the other things are peripheral and only have a small effect.