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chainsaw carving.
By birdhouse, Section Wind Posted on Tue Feb 24, 2009 at 02:58:51 AM MST
anyone used a

i'm getting ready to build some jigs to rip blades with a chain saw. has anyone purchased a skip tooth chain for their saw? they remove chips faster via less teeth. kinda like a table saw blade has less teeth (around 50 average) and more air gaps in the blade verses a chop saw blade has lots of teeth (around ninety average) skip tooth chains are also supposed to leave a cleaner surface when ripping. a few companies recommend them for their chain saw powered portable lumber mills.
also- how do i pick a tsr? i totally get the concept of blade angle changing from tip to root. i've read of going 3 deg at tip, 6 deg at mid blade, them max angle you can get from your board near hub. what tsr would that give you with an 8 foot dia 3 blade set using actual 2" lumber?
using a fanuc ac pm 3phase brushless servo off a big mill of some kind.
2000 rpm 144 volt 20 amp 65 lbs (50 lbs after break and some other stuff removed)
someone on another site recommended an 8' rotor. any other suggestions?
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o112/adrock8/c-list001s.jpg
oh, and what size tower, footings, how m,any guys, how many batteries, what controller and how long can i run three toaster ovens and two space heaters off this set-up??
kidding
i have been loving learning about the wind and it's potential power and am stoked for you folks that lend ur time to help people like me!

chainsaw carving. | 13 comments (13 topical)

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#1)
by Lake Breeze on Mon Feb 23, 2009 at 08:38:14 PM MST

I use "rip" chains from Granberg on my alaskan mill

http://www.granberg.com/

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#2)
by birdhouse on Tue Feb 24, 2009 at 08:30:35 AM MST

lake breeze-
nice looking chains! were you able to put one right one your original bar, or did you also use a specialty bar? i'll bet you love that mill. one of these years i'll bit the bullet and pick one up.

thanks!
"let it blow, let it blow"
[ Parent ]

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#3)
by imsmooth on Tue Feb 24, 2009 at 03:03:05 PM MST

If you go to http://www.mindchallenger.com/wind you will get to a section near the end on carving with a chainsaw. There you can jump to a youtube video I have showing one of the cuts. Further towards the end I am reworking a site showing myself carving the blades in more detail.
Jonathan

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#4)
by imsmooth on Tue Feb 24, 2009 at 03:08:01 PM MST

Tom, if you can combine this with the last...

Towards the end the site I am reworking as a tutorial is
http://www.mindchallenger.com/wind/bladecarving.html

THis site is still incomplete and I will finish most of it this weekend (weather permitting).
Jonathan

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#5)
by TomW on Tue Feb 24, 2009 at 03:36:00 PM MST

im;

Sorry, we cannot edit comments.

Tom

The Truth is the Truth, even if no one believes it; and a lie is a lie even if everyone believes it

[ Parent ]

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#6)
by birdhouse on Tue Feb 24, 2009 at 07:03:16 PM MST

imsmooth-
that's a really nice looking machine! well done. is the picture just funny, or are there 3 wires on one end and only 2 wires coming out the other end of your slip ring set-up? do you rectify in there? where did you get that slip ring set-up and how much do they go for? great site!

i think i can build a jig like that. and i've got a good saw.

i guess i should have called this post "blade design" because that is what i need to figure out/learn about. are there any good blade calculators that don't take a honers trig student to use? and trs, how do i guess a good match to my motor? and does anyone have thoughts on diameter? since no-one has used a fanuc motor (to my knowledge) i'm sure the first blade set may just be something to learn from for the second set. maybe i'll get lucky
"let it blow, let it blow"

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#7)
by imsmooth on Tue Feb 24, 2009 at 07:41:32 PM MST

Contact Ed at windstuffnow for the calculator. Or, you can follow the design at Otherpower or Hugh's site. It may amount to nothing, but I like trying to follow the theoretical profile, and it really doesn't take much more time to set up on the jigs.

The slip ring mercury switch is from mercotac.com They are not cheap, but they seem to work well. I've enclosed it in PVC to protect it from the elements.

Rectification occurs in my basement. Three wires into the sliprings; three wires out. You can't see them because they exit right into the inside of the tube.
Jonathan
[ Parent ]

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#8)
by cdog on Wed Feb 25, 2009 at 12:35:38 PM MST

http://www.alton-moore.net/wind_calculations.html

It was not my idea, but I can't stress enough how well these homebuilt sliprings work, been up a year with no issues..
Cdog.

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#9)
by halfcrazy on Wed Feb 25, 2009 at 05:29:07 PM MST

How about the bearings? do you have a write up on this turbine those slip rings look cool

[ Parent ]

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#10)
by birdhouse on Wed Feb 25, 2009 at 06:24:42 PM MST

imsmooth-
thanks for the slip ring set-up and the link for the calculator. waiting for a reply from mercotac on the slip rings. what do you think the life-span of that product is?

cdog- those look like some pretty beef-steak slip rings. i'm still thinking about rigging a set similar to those. is that brass pipe for the "ring" itself? what type of brushes do you use? how often do you have to change the brushes/ have you changed them/how far worn through are they after a year? sorry, so many questions.

so i'm going to get after a set of 8 foot dia. blades soon with a tsr between 5 and 6. i think i would rather take advantage of the slower wind on a more regular basis even though the turbines final home will be in a wind zone 4. maybe this is a bad idea. time will tell.

going to stop by the local stihl dealer to see what they have for rip chains.

thanks again to all who have taken the time to help me with my turbine project. i'll take some pics/video so you can check it out.

yay!
"let it blow, let it blow"

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#11)
by cdog on Wed Feb 25, 2009 at 11:14:52 PM MST

Bearings are 1 and15/16th flange.
The shaft was 2" cut to 1 15/16".
Hole through the shaft for the wires.
Rings are left over rudder stock from a boat.
Brushes are new replacement from a 6-71 Detriot diesel starter motor.
There is a piece of pvc pipe between the shaft and rings for an insulator.
The brush holders are teflon stock.
Dunno if that is all the answers, but it has been up at my hunting camp for a year with no issues at all!
Possibly overkill, but why not!
Shoot away with more, I'll try to help,
Cdog.

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#12)
by birdhouse on Thu Feb 26, 2009 at 01:01:31 AM MST

so lets say this motor ended up in your lap like the one i'm using, and you've decided to go 12 volt with an estimated cut in of 180rpm. what size rotor would you choose? have yet to bench test rectified, and/or with rpm gauge. just lit light bulbs so far. got a 65 watt pretty bright with drill taped to it.

heres a pic of the inside. you can barely see the edges of the magnets on the rotor.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o112/adrock8/fanuc001.jpg
"let it blow, let it blow"
[ Parent ]

Re: chainsaw carving. (3.00 / 0) (#13)
by Lake Breeze on Thu Feb 26, 2009 at 08:28:53 AM MST

birdhouse,

I bought the rip chain and bar together sized for the mill. But I believe the bar slots are designed the same, so you should be able to buy just the chain for your existing bar.

About that alaskan mill. It's a pain in the a** to set up and very slow. If you can afford it, buy a portable band saw mill instead (like from Norwood Industries). You'll be MUCH happier.

I'll use my cnc router for making my wood blades. All I need to do is create a 3d model of a single blade. Just haven't got that far yet.

cdog,

Awesome slip ring setup!!! Thanks for posting!

chainsaw carving. | 13 comments (13 topical)

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