Second, what's the weather like? Just cold, or with lots of ice/snow and wind?
How much of the year does the water flow?

If you stay during the winter, solar won't be much help and if the creek freezes, then the only free electric will be from wind.

You could run low voltage dc easily 50 feet. 48 volt or less. A 48 volt dc setup would be more efficient. If your appliances are 12v just tap out one battery at a time.

Guessing that means 350 watt hours per day.
Add 10% for slop for 385WH.
With 12V, that's 32AH per day.
And 24/7, so 32AH / 24H = 1.34A into the battery.

That is easy.

Joe's Water Wheel for example.  2A with a furnace blower, Ametek, and log that fell in the stream.
http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_experiments_waterwheel.html

I wouldn't use an Ametek, because of the brushes and sort of high coil resistance.
I would probably use a GE ECM, because no brushes, less coil resistance, and the long shaft.

It doesn't need to be big or expensive of the business end.
I have a 3.5 x 3.5" mini-ECM motor which makes more power than you are asking for.  I would Not use it either, but it gives you the idea.

 Your resources could easily get you a 65 w system, 47 KWH a month.

 So it would be relatively easy to build a less efficient system that would easily handle your needs.

 You could use a pelton wheel and a redesigned alternator (automotive) which is common,
maybe even an overshot wheel and a 3 phase motor, those are easy conversions too.

 Your biggest problems would be freezing in the winter, which you would have to take into consideration when designing your own system, which I'm sure you've already realized.

 It would mainly depend on your abilities to construct things, and what you have easily available.

Is the installation near Fairbanks?  South-East of Glacier Bay?  North Slope?  Aleutain Islands?

As an option and since you are using 12v batteries you could just do a car alternator.  It already comes with a voltage regulator and is cheap.  Go to a junk yard and get a few pulleys and a belt so you can gear up the RPMs on the generator (car alternators require pretty high RPMs, but can output quite a lot of power).  This is not a good idea for wind power as the car alternator requires power for the magnets and when the wind is too low it will drain the batteries.  With a water wheel you get constant power.  The problem is that car alternators are not made to run 24/7 for years, but you can get them cheap and likely get5 about a year out of them.  Even new you can score some for $50 online.

I built mine out of a wind blue PMA and a pelton wheel cased in an olive barrel.

http://www.homebrewhydro.com

Once you can turn a shaft you can make power -- those off the shelf systems are probably better but they cost big $$$$

hope that page helps

With all the central heat in buildings in Alaska, I would assume that Ghurds ECM motors would be pretty common, and easy to get parts and replacements for.

I would recommend designing to follow some well-established principles. Most Pelton/Turgo's Ive seen have a vertical shaft with the gen on top, and are direct-drive. Its not hard to find industrial motor shaft couplings, they look like two hands with fingers interlocked with a rubber "star" in the middle.

I would not hesitate to use wood and plastic in the prototype phase, there will be changes along the way. Once you have it sorted to your satisfaction, you can make a significant one with proper materials.

You said you have a penstock, is there a diversion creek for excess overflow (fish regulations vary?) or do you have an overflow pipe passing through your dam?

Even with the top half of your penstock freezing solid, I would have assumed your turbine feed-pipe draws water from a middle elevation of the penstock level. Below the bottom of the ice, but above the mud-floor?

60' of head is very useful, but on a slope, I'm assuming its a 200' (or so) run of pipe to the turbine? I'm going to guess the pipe must be insulated to prevent freezing in winter.

I don't think it would be too hard to build a Turgo from scratch. The way I understand it, A Pelton has split cups and the water jet shoots at the rim inline with the disc. Half the jet water flows to one side, and half to the other.

A Turgo has only one curve. On a vertical shaft hydro-unit the jets would be in-between the gen and turbine, the water would shoot down at a 45-deg angle, flow through a smooth 90-deg curve, and exit out the bottom. Using at least two jets (one on each side) would remove any side-loading on the bearing.

The prototype could use PVC pipe sections as the turbine blades, but stainless steel hydraulic tubing could be acquired for a more substantial unit. It would look something like this:

http://www.fieldlines.com/comments/2007/3/1/5259/19738/25#25

Buying properly engineered Pelton/Turgo "spoons" to attach to your own disc should be relatively affordable, but I was shocked when I saw the prices for these injection-molded plastic items. You could buy one, and make a silicone mold, then cast your own aluminum/brass (from cartridges?) using "lost-wax" method.