stator

[southgent]

stator  Remove from Hotlist

By southgent, Section Homebrewed Electricity

Posted on Sun Oct 23rd, 2005 at 11:31:41 PM MST  

help needed

i"m just trying to use what i got to make something work and would

appreciate some info sinse i"m not a electrician,

i got old stator from a washing machine motor, The start wireing has

been removed,

it was what looked like aluimun and very brittle from heat,its got

4 big windings that look good, and have 3 coils each

the middle coil is about 1 " inside

and all coils have about 10 to 12 rounds (hard to count) of big copper wire about 1/16" thick.

if this is ok for use?, i have a rotor about 1/4" per side smaller than id of stator ,it came from a 1/3hp motor, there is room for some magnets between ,

it is close to same length as stator and i can use end caps and bearings

from it also with a little extra work.

i dont know to much on wireing so any help or advise would be welcome,

would like to build a small windmill, dont really care for so much power,just to learn a little about converting motors over to work as alternator.

maybe a little trial and error would help me to something better

without much cost.

thanks very much

stator | 2 comments (2 topical, 0 editorial) | Post A Comment  

   Re: stator (3.00 / 0) (#1)

by southgent on Mon Oct 24th, 2005 at 08:51:03 PM MST

(User Info)  

well i guess this is no good ? not worthy of even a comment?

thanks anyway....

[ Reply to This ]

Re: stator (3.00 / 0) (#2)

by Flux on Tue Oct 25th, 2005 at 07:51:39 AM MST

(User Info)  

I am not a motor conversion expert but it seems that what you have has more chance of working than a lot of suggestions here.

It seems as though you need a 4 pole rotor and you probably have enough room to fit 1/8" thick magnets allowing for the curvature and still have clearance.

If the holes in the coils are about 1" you can make your magnets about 1" wide, but in view of the curvature you may be better to use 1/2" wide magnets and use 2 together for each pole. If the length is half the rotor length you can offset them a bit to produce a skewed pole to reduce cogging.

I don't think it will be wonderful but it will be good for experience.

Flux

[ Parent | Reply to This |  none12345 ]

[ghurd]

I'll have a shot at it.

"dont really care for so much power"

That makes it easier!

You just need 4 magnets that fit.

You want to try 4 magnetic poles. N-S-N-S around the rotor.

The more magnet the better. Neos for sure.

A line of half inch round magnets would be easy enough? Each row has to have all the magnets with the same pole up.

The next row has the oposite pole up.

A little skew of the magnets will help reduce the cogging.

Also if the 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock magnets are set at 3:05 and 9:05, that will help too.

Zubbly likes rows of round magnets.

I like 1 magnet per pole that fits everything, just because its easier for me.

Either way, epoxy the magnets on the rotor, and it will make AC power.

For DC power, put the output wires to a bridge rectifier.

Thats all there is to it.

I like the smaller motors for fun.

They tend to have a lot of turns of small wire, so getting the voltage is no problem, but getting the amps is a problem.

Then fly on a 5' piece of conduit pounded in the yard until I get board with it.

This thing works.

All I did was make room for 4 magnets, seperate the start and run windings, added 2 bridges.

So it isn't hard to make 'something that works a little'.

G-

[southgent]

well thanks Fuux and Ghurd,

I thank you both with this reply, i liked to lost where the post was it dont show up

in message board any more. May be when i moved it here to a diery.:>

i was thinking of going ahead and trying this so i got some 1"x 1/8" ceramic magnets.

I knew from reading on board ceramics are not very good, but some people use then for a trial thing,so i guess that what i do.

if it works at all it will let me see maybe how to begin on another project.

as i said the start winding is gone from the stator and i din't know if i could just use the outer windings as they were,good to know that they might.:>

i will put the magnets as Ghurd has said, but the 3:05 and 9:05 ?? is that

like move them over (like 6 degrees or what)?  

i got one bearing & cap fit back to stator,

i will let you know more tomorrow if i can?

Ghurd ,why you use 2 bridge rectifiers and did you use the start windings ?

looks good,Is that a fan blade?

thanks again to both of you

[ghurd]

"but the 3:05 and 9:05 ?? is that

like move them over (like 6 degrees or what)?"

Yes. The magnets and slots will line up less even, making it turn with less cogging.

"why you use 2 bridge rectifiers and did you use the start windings ?"

One bridge rectifier for the run windings, one for the start windings.

This motor had 3 power wires. One for the run, one for the start, one going to both.

The wire to both was disconnected from one winding, and another wire added to the just disconnected winding.

Making a total of 4 output wires.

A bridge was added to both sets of windings.

Yes, it's just a 20" fan blade.

That one works pretty good, but most fan blades do not work well.

G-

[southgent]

hey you are on both my little projects , very good,i been busy today messing with the other one :>

got the ends fixed back and bearings turning free, plased the magnets as you said ,it got 3 ac volts , me turning with vise grips with hand i ant got no drill that fit the 1/2" shaft,

going to try welding 3/8/bolt to end for turning, ill let you know what it does.

if i get much here i may try my luck at winding the start wires back.

-would same wire as od poles be ok or with smaller wire?-do you wire each poles in a continuous winding or single wind for each coil?

may take more than fan blade to turn this sucker.:>

[ghurd]

I love little stuff.

Yikes!  

If it won't turn with your fingers, there are cogging issues!

At least I think. I don't do much that's that big.

My best bet is change the 3:05 and 9:05 to X:04.

A fan blade is pretty lame compared to Dan and Hugh carved wooden blades.

Popular opinion is that the poles of a 2 phase machine should all be wound the same.

So that's all the same turns of the same wire.

I personally wouldn't bother rewinding the starts,

UNLESS the machine is something Zubbly would bother with, and he usually only bothers with 3-phase and total rewinds. For good reason.

I do small stuff and have never personally been able to successfully totally rewind a motor like it should be done.  My fingers are too fat, my eyes too old, my motors too small, and my patience too thin.  Many other people do it easy, just not me.

Single winding is easier, then solder them together, for me at least.

More cogging makes more power (if it will start to turn).

Just barely tack weld stuff that might need to be removed later.

It will need removed later. LOL.

Keep it 110% straight. Close enough is not even close enough to about OK.

[southgent]

well i"m still up , barely, got little windmills turning in my head:<

oh i could turn it with my fingers even make it spin a couple rounds, make the needle go forward, then visegrips,i welded a bolt to it and turned with drill , it showed 8 ac volts,its not very good to proceed with i imagine cause hardly ever got wind enought to start, well? maybe up high and good wooden blades might make for fun ,but again lot of work.

i too like the small stuff .but would like to have one that might charge a battery.

maybe someday or maybe in my dreams:>could you hook several at least 2 togather for battery charging ?

-going to bed -

thanks

[Norm]

  Once you get it turning with a drill...try

hooking it up to a battery....a 6 volt like

from a power wheels or a rechargable spotlight

battery you might be pleasantly surprised that

it works !

      Keep us posted...we'll give you

           moral support...we've been there !

           more than once.

             Have Fun!

                    ( :>) Norm.

[southgent]

hello norm, thanks for the encouragement, i needed that:> good idea!!

it seems to be working and i think i will try to modify the bearings as

like use the original ones that was on the shaft.got a little slop in one end

right now.even this will be a major job for me.like mounting stator and build the end caps to fit (getting it centered)should turn better, i think .

but it is a fun thing , i am thinking on my other project (check my other post )

that seems to be working ok, get my stator set in resin and plan what to use for blades?....

good day to you

[ghurd]

I'll kick in some more encouragement.

Change 8VAC to 11.3VDC, minus 1.2 bridge losses = 10VDC.

A little more or stronger magnet, or a little more RPM will charge a 12V battery!

See? It's not that hard.

[southgent]

wow!! (Change 8VAC to 11.3VDC, minus 1.2 bridge losses = 10VDC)

things looking up........wish i knew how to do this stuff:>

got to go look for more motors.

frost on ground and little cool,winds are still (need more coffee)"get to shop"

i just gotta get something flying,

thanks guys

[ghurd]

And about the other one that makes 5VAC by hand, 15VAC with a drill.

That's good to.

VAC x 1.414= VDC. 5VAC=7VDC and 15=21, then subtract about 1.2V for the diode losses. Rule of thumb for diode losses is 0.7VDC each (1.4V for a bridge), but its usually less.

[southgent]

ok ,it is certainly more that i thought i get ,you guys sure a good help

for me . I put resin to the stator about 12 cst, i may get it ready for some more testing tomorrow, i put the tape on corners of coils like you said , good idea!!

i may try to go get some bridges tomorrow also ,hope to get some kind of blades,i cut out some 3 pieces 1/2"x4"smooth pine treated maybe glue pieces to the root end to get more thickness for angle ,try to get some  airfoil at center and tips,was thinking about 27" long, you recon thats to long ?

well on motor i got ampter shimed in center of stator , decided to use the bearins that was on the original shaft, spinds good , ball bearings.making brackets for end caps ,lot of work yet,in my lazy time...:>

more later