Half HP G.E. Induction Conversion Motor

[coldspot]

My largest conversion-

So far.

"General Electric

Model, 5KH46JR151AS

HP, 1/2

RPM, 1725/1140

V, 115

Hz, 60

A, 8.1/6.5

CODE, N KPR5Z

PC, B730L

RISE, 70`C. CONT

Thermally Protected L"

Thats the tag info-

This has a speed switch built into one end of it

I'd like advise about this switch

like to tear out or not?

Coil info-

4. coils inner= #22
   
4. coils middle= #17
   
4. coils outer= #15
   
   

All these windings are inner woven together

but easly seen as seperate sets

Slots-

Two larger ones, 180` apart

16 smaller ones between larger ones

Connections-

The end panel has a nice spade plug connections

A,B,C

3,4,6,7,8,9

Are the labled lugs

speed switch looks to hook up as follows

when out, (away from motor)

A+C

9+7+8

When in, (pulled towards motor)

A+B

9+White wire

The lugs are wired as follows

A= Red In

B= Yellow

C= Connection only

3. = Red
   
4. = purple
   
6. = Black
   
7. = Blue
   
8. = Connection only
   
9. = Connection only
   
   

Pictures to follow

[coldspot]

The pic's

















My rotor

More magnets could be added if needed









The switch

[zubbly]

hi coldspot!

your winding does consist of 3 windings. one start winding 4 pole, #22 magnet wire (this start winding is common for both the lower and higher speed run windings). one 4 pole (1725 rpm #15 magnet wire) and if you look "really" close, you should actually find 6 coil groups for the 1140 rpm winding. often they are packed in so hard they are hard to see.

unfortunately, the colour coding does not help to identify which colours are for the various speeds and start winding. there is no standard amongst manufacturers for this.

the centrifugal mechanism on the shaft and start switch mounted in the housing should be removed.

what i suggest, is get a cheap compass and use a small 12 volt battery charger to identify which leads are for what winding. there is a very good chance that there is a common lead wire used from one end of each winding as more often than not, the motor may be non reversible. if you look close, you may be able to spot the lead wire with 3 magnet wires soldered to it. if you find it, cut it and put a seperate lead on each wire. if the name plate states somewhere "to reverse interchange.....), then it is not fixed rotation and you will not need to add the additional lead wires.

to identify the seperate windings, use an ohm meter or continuity tester to find circuits between any 2 leads. after you have identified all 3 sets, connect each set to a small battery charger and insert a compass inside the stator close to the laminations. the needle will point exactly in the centre of a coil group. mark with chock or marker as you go around the entire circumference of the stator where each pole is located for each winding. this way you will visually be able to identify which leads belong to which windings and wire size.

you may also find that there is a "dead" lead wire that runs from the stationary switch.  it is just an extension of the start winding to make the factory connections.  disreguard it.

drive the motor in a drill press or lathe at known speeds to calculate what your cut in rpm will be from each winding. they are all harvestable.

you will have output with the mags you presently have mounted to the rotor, though it may be on the low end as it does not utilize much of the potential.  it just looks like those #29 neos may be a perfect or close match for your unit.

have fun and hope this helps you!  

zubbly

[coldspot]

Thank You-

"Mr Zubbly", (As a honor to the passing of a friend

of the group, I'd like to call you that when you help me);`(

Thanks for letting me know what to do with that switch.

Now we have seven leads coming out of motor

two go into a square little block thing

mounted under where the connection panel was

but under a metal skirt type ring and outside

of the coils. Any thoughts on this?

Instead of a 12V charger

could I use a small motorcycle type battery

I have for power to the coils?

Or I could use any of the dozens of computer power supplies

I quess, Or even the new switching power supply I got for the TEC

I'm adding to the video card in my "Better Computer".

I'm sorry but I've been looking over these coils

for a long while now and I am still sure there

three groups of four sets, but hey your the man on this stuff

I'll see more after powering up the coils I'm sure also.

yesterday I got an other simular motor but

looks like a drill out or pry apart one and much older

as in a square body with out any bolt thru holding it

together, can see the coils sets in it as looking to be

groups of four also but have yet to do more than

spray with contact/break cleaner then blow out

with airhose.

I know these little magnets look small but

they are real Neo's and have great power

I got 49 VDC out of the 0.07HP with them.

[hiker]

use any kind of dc transformer--you just don"t want to burn out your coils..

if your using a batt. try not to have it hooked up to long--and if you don"t have a compass a small ceramic mag held in your hand will tell you which coils are being powered up....just some tricks i learned when i did my conversions...later......

[coldspot]

Thanks Hiker

I was wondering about that

better thinking was telling me to not

short the coils very much

still wondering about the little square thingy

behind the coils?

PS: hows the weather up there?

[zubbly]

hi coldspot!

i forgot to mention what the "thingy" was.  lol

it is likely a "klixon" which is a bimetalic thermal overload. usually they only work a few times then cause nothing but nuisnace tripping.  just cut all the wires off it ald connect them together. you wouldn't want it in the circuit as a wind gen.

zubbly