Author Topic: 6.625" dual rotor update.  (Read 3294 times)

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Jerry

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6.625" dual rotor update.
« on: March 23, 2006, 04:55:57 AM »
I'm going to use an 8" cast speaker basket to support the fiberglass wafer stator.


I did this with my Lowes 10" ceramic alt. It worked so well I thought I'd try it on this littel alt.


Heres a group of pictures no time to detail pix now. Maybe tommorow.























Sorry about the rush. I'll try to discribe pictures tommorow.


                     JK TAS Jerry

« Last Edit: March 23, 2006, 04:55:57 AM by (unknown) »

willib

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2006, 10:19:45 PM »
once you go ROUND you never go back
« Last Edit: March 22, 2006, 10:19:45 PM by willib »
Carpe Ventum (Seize the Wind)

spinner

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2006, 06:57:49 AM »
hi Jerry


just a simple question on the jerryrig, if i may:


when applied to an existing 12v system,( one not designed specifically for jerryrig) what has been your experience insofar as the gain in output to batteries vs winding/coil specs combinations; (i am not referring to the possible need for more prop)

probably the wrong space to ask about it, figured you might have some thoughts on the matter, tho

if time permits and you'd rather, drop me an email?


thanx

spinner

« Last Edit: March 23, 2006, 06:57:49 AM by spinner »

Jerry

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2006, 09:48:19 PM »
Hi Spinner.


I've not aproached the jerry/riged idea from an exsisting 12 volt genny.


I've been involved with audio and electronics since the early sixties.


The idea of 2 coils that produce an ac voltage/amperage work well together while out of phase with each other just doesn't fly for me.


Its most likely to do with my involment with audio or building thousands of power supplies over the years.


I use single phase as a referance in the discusion of combining the ac output of the coils involved with the PMAs that we as a wind power group use to charge batteries.


The large porportion of this group uses the dual rotor disc alt some are useing converted ac motors a very few are using car alts. There are also the smart motor types like the Fisher & Paykel and the GE ECM. All of these formates are or can be 3 phase ac to DC PMA.


The power from the idividual phase are combined to one end product DC through the use of rectifiers.


The normal combineing method is either Delta or Star. Each has its own addvantages and liabilities.


Delta is thought of have higher amperage but lower voltage. Therefor suited well for high wind speeds. Star is thought of haveing higher voltage but lower amperage therefor suited to lower wind speeds.


Some folks have set about taking addvantage of both conditions by building a star to delta switching system according to wind speed and power available in the wind.


Some have prefected this method either automaticly or manualy.


The problem I've have with star and have stated so many times is the loss of both power and voltage.


Let me rehash my thinking.


In single phase two 10 volt 5amp amp coils wire in sires produces 20 volts 5 amps.


Take any to coils of 3 phase that are producing 10 volts at 5 amps and wire them in sireies you get 17.3 volts at something less then 5 amps(star). It has been sugjested that this is not a fair compairison because star needs a few extra turns of wire to make up for its voltage loss.


I did this (a few more turns for star) and stars output was still less.


Because there has to be a diferance in coil turns count and wire gage a direct compairison is not posable using the same coils.


My sugjestion and what I did was to wind coils for 20 volts at 2.5 amps. These coils then have there own and seperate fullwave bridge rectifiers, the DC outputs of the bridges were wired perelell. The end result of this was no voltage, amperage, wattage losses do to coils working with other out of phase coils.


The Idea here was to use the exact same amount of copper wire in weight but get rid of those out of phase losses.


It works great for me and I'll use no other power waisting system. I'll get all the power that my magnets, copper and money are capable of.


If other folks wish to buy a V8 and pull a sparkplug wire or 2 thats fine. Its a free country.


Unfortunatley we can't make that direct compairison between delta, delta/jerry riged and star. Coils must be diferant to work at tha same voltage.


You may recall my test of the 12 volt GM car alt. Stock it was wire star. I removed the stock star stator and replaced it with a 24 volt GM stator and wired that jerry/riged and had much higher power at 12 volts then the stock 12v star.


My other test with other types 3 phase alts had symular results.


Even in a wind test same blades same alt.


I'm building a couple new dual rotor disc alts.  One is an exact replica of the 8" dual rotor genny except it will have 150 turns of 20ga wire as aposed to 250 turns of 22ga. wire.


I think this should satisfy the star folks as to the extra turns star needs to overcome its voltage losses.


This alt will be wind tested directly against the jerry/riged alt with the same blade.


These are both 9 coil 12 magnet alts.


But first I want to finish this littel 6.625" 8 magnet 6 coil alt.


I did a littel work on the rotor today. The rotor is glueing tonight.


I'll post more pix on the littel guy with progress.


                     JK TAS Jerry  

« Last Edit: March 23, 2006, 09:48:19 PM by Jerry »

nothing to lose

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2006, 12:25:21 AM »
Jerry,

 In doing tons of searching for various things I found mentions of your having done a GM ALT with a doughnut neo. Removed the finger plates and center coil and installed a doughnut mag in there. I have been searhing hard for that post, either it's very old, maybe old board, or I just cannot find it with my search terms. I got tons of hits where it may be mentioned like here and such, not the actaul post though.


I am very intersted in those because I have 3 doughnuts now I plan to do about the same thing. 2 are N35 rings, 3"od 1.5"ID 3/4"thick, I got these 2 as samples just for this conversion when I ordered those custom #29 arcs :)

The other one is same size but only 1/2" thick I bought somewhere.


Anyway this is my plan also, press apart the finger plates, remove coil, install Neo rings and press back together. My idea is the fingers of one plate will be South poles and the other plate north poles and they interlock to alternate, being they are angled as they are I am geussing cogging will not be much. How much Neo I put in there I have not decided yet, I could go 2" with all 3 disks if I have the clearance. I really been searching hard for any info of how yours turned out and was actaully built since I found mention of it. I may have read it in the past, perhaps that even sub conciencely gave me the idea even but I don't remember anything about it.


Before I destroy this perfectly good GM alternator I would like to read your post, any link or ideas on search terms to find it or even how old it may be?


I don't have actaull pricing yet on the rings, but I can get any size I want easy enough if I get this working, and used GM 12V alts are plenty cheap. Perhaps that post will give me a starting point on how thick I want to start with and save some time/work and even provide other usefull info too of course.


And I am still watching all the connection testing too.


 The Jerry blades I have flying right now got some very nice comments from my friends that dropped by today by the way. In from AZ to visit about a week, used to live here years ago. It was a low wind, mild breeze, the Jerry blades were spinning nicely. I showed them the small battery bank I was charging, looked at the meter and the batteries were charging nicely, better than I expected from that conversion and so low winds. I had ran them down to 11V earlier.

 We were outside for hours, I never thought the wind was much today, but the Jerry Blades were almost always spinning every time I looked at them.

Bad location, turbulent because of trees and roof and not high enough, but they still work well. I can hardly wait to get the good genny done and fly these blades high in clear clean wind!! Now that I got the new lathe motor I should have that done in a few days, unless I goof off with my friends alot before they go home. First time I see them in almost 6 years so I may goof off if they are around :)

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 12:25:21 AM by nothing to lose »

jlt

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2006, 02:50:34 AM »
if you put a ring magnet between the finger discs you will have to use a none magnetic stainles shaft or it will cancel it self out.tried that many yrars ago.with ceramic speaker mags. i mounted three sets of fingers to a 1 inch stainles shaft,with 3 stators.rectfied and then wired in series.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 02:50:34 AM by jlt »

oztules

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2006, 05:10:42 AM »
I think it depends which surfaces are magnetised on the ring mags. they could be north on the top south on the bottom.... should work or-

 "center core concentration" :North and south poles in the core...problem here i think


......oztules

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 05:10:42 AM by oztules »
Flinders Island Australia

spinner

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2006, 06:06:28 AM »
jerry

i have NO doubt that the jerryrig is a worthwhile way to go, especially if, say a 9/12 like the one i have been experimenting with in not a perfect build coil/magnet relationship wise; which none of mine are!

i could not get my lil stator-x project to work with jerryrig (it was built before jerryrig)without eating up rectifiers ( despite the fact that they were fused well below their rating and never driven hard )  which probably had something to do with the coil configuration;

tho it did work ok with conventional Y/delta.

i ain't reopening that can of worms again, wasted eneough of everybodys time a few weeks ago tryin' to see why the problem existed;was just curious about applying jerryrig to existing units, was all


thanx

spinner

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 06:06:28 AM by spinner »

electrondady1

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2006, 06:20:34 AM »
jerry

it's great your still doing the jerry rigged testing.i must admit i became confused by the last round of testing. the dicusion got way over my head. especialy when you started comparing different turn counts and wire dia. the way i see it, if the same mags are used on the same rotor dia and spun at the same speed which system gives the best power. the power is in the rotating mags ,so what is the best method to harvest it .??  copper is a lot cheaper than neo mags, i want to slip in as much as i can.

 in regards to those alternator conversions. what method is used to remove and reinstall the steel finger plates? some kind of hydraulic ram press?


also , i have two 15" speakers that are finised. they have stamped steel baskets . do you think they would be strong enough ? i notice you use cast aluminum.

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 06:20:34 AM by electrondady1 »

electrondady1

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2006, 06:35:33 AM »
hey, spinner ,

i followed your posts a few weeks ago it wasn't boring, some how the rectifyers were killing your voltage. i cant remember if you got to the bottom of the problem.


the thing with jerry riging is that every phase must produce your working voltage so maybe finer wire (more turns)is required. i like working with finer wire , it lays down so easy and seems to form a really dense coil.

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 06:35:33 AM by electrondady1 »

coldspot

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2006, 10:21:52 AM »
Jerry-

I really enjoy reading your posts

I am sold on "Jerry/Delta"

Wasn't very hard to show my minds eye

that better thinking

would be to get what is there

from what you've got.

Please keep posting

THANKS

:)
« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 10:21:52 AM by coldspot »
$0.02

Jerry

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2006, 10:54:44 AM »
Goodmorning group.


The GM alts I've been playing with came frome Hornet. The first Hornet GM alt had doughnut NEOs replaceing the rotor coil. That was the only change they made.


They didn't use any none magnetic shafts or other parts. As a mater of fact the shaft would easyly pick up a small pocket scew driver and yet the made power. No were near the power Hornet cliams though.


I also pulled a couple rotor apart and replace the coil with a stack of ceramic speaker magnets. That worked but the weak ceramics didn't make much power.


The stock Hornet would make about 200 watts at 30 MPH. I modifide the Hornet stator by seperateing all 3 phases, conecting a fullwave bridge to each phase and then wireing the DC outputs of the 3 bridges in sires was able to get over 400 watts with the same stator. I also had place a 100,000 UF/16 volt cap accross each bridge DC.


I did pull a couple apart and build my own rotor. I made it from an armature from a garbage disposal motor. I machined it down and place 14 each 1"X 1/2" X 1/4" NEOs on it.


I used 2 GM alt fronts for the end caps. I think there are still pix of this alt on airheads.


It cogged bad but made a liitel better power then the Hornet conversion.


The Hornet style with the doughnut has very mild cogging do to the pointed fingers.


If your coing to do a GM alt thats the way to go and do the phase modes I did.


Car alts need a bunch of help in the rpm department. Either by the way I've discribed stator modes or rewinding or find the same stator but in 24 volt version. Ask your local alt repair shop about the 24 volt. They may have some old junkers cheap or free?


The 24 volt work well for 12 volt charging when jerry/riged. A 100 watts or so anyway. If all you need is low power. Atleast there very light and plentyfull.


The 3phase diode package is a nice plus also. 3 of those doide packages make a nice jerry/riged group.


Well gotta go to work. YUK


                         JK TAS Jerry

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 10:54:44 AM by Jerry »

nothing to lose

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2006, 02:26:25 PM »
A junk yard I go to that seperates scrap like copper and steel uses a 20ton shop press to disasemble the alternator rotors. I bought a $100 12ton press to do this myself but have not done one yet, press was missing a part I had to wait on and then got tied up with other stuff like a broke lathe. I think a 12ton should press the shafts in and out fine, at least I hope so. I need a press for other things also so I just bought one.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 02:26:25 PM by nothing to lose »

nothing to lose

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #13 on: March 24, 2006, 02:42:33 PM »
Thanks Jerry that was very helpful.

 Now to figure out how I will gently set a 3/4" thick Neo into the finger plates without chopping off my own fingers :)
« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 02:42:33 PM by nothing to lose »

spinner

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2006, 06:28:37 PM »
thanks


I put it aside...never thought about the equal voltage thing/hmmm

tried about everything I or anybody else could think of tho <LOL>

runs ok in delta

maybe someday I'll have another look

stator-x was a concept (if i dare use that term about something i built) test for a ? I had about adjustable-output-via-winding-change stators and 9/12 machines


thanx

spinner

« Last Edit: March 24, 2006, 06:28:37 PM by spinner »

jlt

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #15 on: March 25, 2006, 05:45:38 AM »
try the finger discs with a wood dowel. and then with a steel shaft. and see how much more you will get. it might be alright with neos. when i tryed it with ceramic got tw[ce as much.maybee that why hornets are junk.i was looking at one operating one day and went and talked to the guy that owned it i figured the wind was at least 15 mph. he was only getting 1 to 2amps from it.the most that he had seen from it was 10 amps.that was the day his shed roof blew off.
« Last Edit: March 25, 2006, 05:45:38 AM by jlt »

Jerry

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2006, 09:35:24 AM »
The new Hornets are now useing an armature that look just like the armature in my diary above.


Ed also has a simular GM alt armature show on his page.


Yes I own a Hornet and its output sucks. After I made the above mods its performance is much better. But it still has the SW-403 style blades. Hornet just coppied SW but made the blades a littel longer and wider at the root and uses 6 rather then 3 blades. But it still sucks.


With my "Jerry blades" and the modes it starts charging sooner. The best bet is the doughnut magnet on a stock fingered rotor with a 24 volt stator the above wireing scheem and Jerry blades.


This all makes it produce power at much lower wind speed but not much power to speak of.


If you need a very light machine and only a couple 100 watts, it might just work?


                      JK TAS Jerry

« Last Edit: March 25, 2006, 09:35:24 AM by Jerry »

nothing to lose

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Re: 6.625" dual rotor update.
« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2006, 06:09:41 PM »
I said I thought a 12ton press should work for pressing apart the alternator armature, I am wrong. At least mine did not work, I bent the press (with the jack it came with) !


I bent my 12ton A frame press yesterday! First time I used it.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/H6229


I am sure Grizzely will give me new parts, only about 2 weeks old and the first week was waiting for a spring to be sent to me that was missing. In fairness to Grizzely it took 4-5 days to get the missing spring, though they had me ticked off telling me on the phone it would be 2-3 weeks.


 I have had bad luck with a few things the last few weeks, but Grizzely does make it good so far. I am sort of happy with them though it cost me money.

« Last Edit: March 27, 2006, 06:09:41 PM by nothing to lose »