Author Topic: Convection Wood Heat drawing  (Read 2664 times)

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RogerAS

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Convection Wood Heat drawing
« on: October 17, 2006, 03:19:18 PM »



Greetings,


Above is a rough drawing of the furnace I built. This is viewing as if one were to be about to open the fire door.


The blue roof is 2 sheets of steel allthreaded to a "cap" of very thick/dryish mortar. That "cap" was well cured before heat was ever introduced. This makes an outside air seal which conforms to the irregularities of the two surfaces. I may add a bead of red high temp silicone between the mortar and steel to be sure. It is double layered with fiberglass sandwiched between. Hunks of unused stove pipe cut just so makes up the sides, ribs and ends of this roof. An old oven door might work too!


The cold air inlet is near the front on the side and the hot outlet is in the back at the top. There MUST NEVER be a leak of combustion fumes enter the hot air cavity. The chimney/flue outlet on my firebox is very heavy gauge 6" pipe welded very tightly to the firebox which is 3/8". These welds were smoothed and run again. Just to be absolutely safe I coated those welds with furnace cement. No matter what type of firebox used there must be no smoke escape into the air exchange zone. You could pump a house full of CO in minutes!


With my cool/hot hieght ratio I figure I turn all the air over in my house every 30 minutes without the microwave fan. With that fan it more than triples that rate. I can run the stove wide open with a good load of wood, turn the fan on, and raise the inhouse temperature very quickly!


The design I used is not your only option by any means. If I had the masonry skills I'd build a "bee hive" shape to more directly funnel the hot air upward. That shape would allow a small inspection port for the exchange zone. Different firebox layouts and sizes would also be a consideration as to the exchange zone design. I sure wouldn't use a thin metal firebox such as a drum for this type of furnace.


If there are any questions I'll do my best to answer them

« Last Edit: October 17, 2006, 03:19:18 PM by (unknown) »

powerbuoy

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Re: Convection Wood Heat drawing
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2006, 09:39:23 AM »
Very nice ....was waiting for that one ...


powerbuoy

« Last Edit: October 17, 2006, 09:39:23 AM by powerbuoy »

Titantornado

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Re: Convection Wood Heat drawing
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2006, 10:30:15 AM »
I doubt there would be an issue should a breech of the fire chamber occur.  I believe you have a slightly lower pressure (than the surrounding hot air cavity) in the firebox due to the draft.  It would probably only cause some of the hot air cavity to be sucked into the fire chamber.


In any case, a few CO alarms never hurt. Oh, and never bet on furnace cement to block CO fumes.

« Last Edit: October 17, 2006, 10:30:15 AM by Titantornado »

WXYZCIENCE

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Re: Convection Wood Heat drawing
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2006, 10:35:49 AM »
Roger, had one of those chimney heat extractors once. Small holes started because of condensation and age. ( 5 years) I don't use it any more. All hydronic now.


Question; Where you live how much winter do you see? Were you not talking about the excessive heat down your way this summer?


Joseph.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2006, 10:35:49 AM by WXYZCIENCE »

RogerAS

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Re: Convection Wood Heat drawing
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2006, 06:06:01 PM »
Joe,


Yes we are lucky this way. In the summer we get blazing hot with enough humidity to really make it miserable. In the winter it can and usually does get down around zero F. The Ozark plateau is what shields the rest of Arkansas from the blasts from the north. Even 40° F here can feel miserable as the same humidity that devils us all summer hangs around for the cool season. Ice stroms are much more common than snow, and I've seen it snow 18"+ once. Yep we have a winter here too!


If I could turn this furnace into an absorption refirgeration unit. Can you say, "Mosquito Coast"? :-)

« Last Edit: October 17, 2006, 06:06:01 PM by RogerAS »

RogerAS

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Re: Convection Wood Heat drawing
« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2006, 12:50:19 PM »
Rod,


Yep, enough alarms for a bank! :-)


At times when the damper and draft settings are very low, or closed down, the draft in the exchange zone can indeed draw fumes from a leak in the firebox/combustion chamber. I learned this the hard way. My first attempt to seal this point failed and stunk up the joint. That's when I found a better steel pipe and fixed that issue once and for all period.


Eventually I hope to build a bigger and better version of this taking advantage of the slope I own to increase airflow rates. I can then bury the ductwork and have a central system like city folks, except that mine uses no electricity. With an ample firebox, and heating water too, one might get several days between wood refills. A speed controlled auger and wood chips, pellets, coal, corn or whatever solid fuel employed, one could elminate the firedoor, except for a tiny lighting port and sealing ash removal point. Making the design much more effiecent. You oil burners might give it a thought.


In my thinking before building this system I considered a water heating jacket, actually no more than a 30 gal steel drum, to sit in one corner and just soak up heat. If the fire died down I could still get some residual heat from the water and the blocks. Maybe the ideal way to build this is to make the walls and roof from tanks. Along with the convection the mass of water would be a backup. If one could raise 750 gallons of water to 175° F it would surely hold that heat for a long time with any kind of insulation at all.


Closing thoughts;

With the convection system a series of solar collector convection boxes can be added to the show. A little aluminum dryer venting, a little glass, and there goes another rick of wood needed. Build enough panels and the wood would only be needed occasionally. Like I've said, I got the slope facing that southern sun. Using the heated water thermo syphon recirculation, the releasing radiators (placed in the hot air feed ducting) could have the air forced through them by the convection, thereby adding to the hot air stream sent to the living space, which feeds the whole cycle. Simple bypass valving could provide a heat exchanger for domestic hot water.


I've many thoughts and much wood to cut....

« Last Edit: October 19, 2006, 12:50:19 PM by RogerAS »

pepa

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Re: Convection Wood Heat drawing
« Reply #6 on: October 19, 2006, 01:54:34 PM »
i like the way you have set that system up, Rodger, keep the thoughts coming. pepa
« Last Edit: October 19, 2006, 01:54:34 PM by pepa »