Garbogen pix series. #1

[Jerry]

Here are few stators on the wireing mod table.

Till next time and some other steps.

                          JK TAS Jerry

pictures are a little on the large side 150+ kb next time resize them a little more they absolutly have to be under 150kb under 100 kb would be even better..
Kurt

[bsafe]

Are those stators from copper wound units or aluminum in the photos? Under what conditions would you just connect  rectifier #1 to the two thick wires from the  four run coils with two additional leads and connect rectifier #2 to the two thin  wires from the 4 starter coils with two additional leads? I am a little confused still as I am reading the photos that seem to show the addition of  two leads to each of the eight coils. In short  to make a garbogen (tm.) do I need to add a total of four leads to connect to rectifiers to the coils or sixteen? Thank you for the clarification. By the way do you have any tips for connecting the aluminum wire? I broke a piece off at the top of one coil, would you pull that wire through to the other side and run the jumper to that side, pull all the coil leads to the other side or scrap the stator? Thank you in advance. bsafe.

[Jerry]

Hi bsafe.

These photos are from several years of Garbogen construction. They are not all from the same machine.

The 4 stock wires are conected to the seperate rectifiers in the 24 volt version.

For 12 volt use a sires-perelell configuration works best. As far as the aluminumwire is concerned, yes its a pain in the %$#^%& to work with. Thats another good reason to find a 1 hp. Very hard to find though.

If you've broken a wire short just pull enough slack or remove half a turn and redo.

I generally pull the wires to the outside of the coils to make conections. The wire pulls through the gaps between coils fairly easy.

You do have to scrape the wire gently. Aluminum is very soft. I twist the aluminum wire with the fine stranded copper hookup wire and use a crimp conector. Try to twist the stranded copper wire all the way around the aluminum so the copper makes barier between the aluminumand the sharp edge of the crimp conector. I normaly slip very small as I can heat shrink tubing onto the bear aluminum wire for pretection and firmness.

After all conection are made I go nuts with wire zip ties and secure all lose wires.

You can't tell the copper from the aluminum till you scrape the varnish off.

To do the sires-peralell wireing you end up with a total 8 lose wire ends. 4 for the runs and 4 for the starts. I make the peralell conection inside the can. You can extend all the leads and make your conections outside the can.

Befor reasembling the stator back into the can just conect the 2 wires for the run winding groups to a 9 volt battery. Then take a small ceramic magnet and hold near each pole. Going around inside the stator you should feel. Atract, repel, atract repel.

If it all atracts or all replells you need to reverse the leads between the 2 sets of run windings. Do the same for the start windings.

PS on that wire that broke. just pull it to the other side and add a jumper to get it back were it was. Thats much easyer the redoing all the other wires, that would put them at risk for breakage also.

Good luck and keep the questions comming.

What are you using for magnets, armature, blades and such?

                      JK TAS Jerry