Author Topic: Heating Element  (Read 2155 times)

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coldspot

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Heating Element
« on: February 12, 2007, 10:05:45 PM »
I picked up a

"TGB 2453X2 208V 4500W 2 4 450 V053D"

Square mount type water heater element @ Army store

$3.50

Internet searching shows nothing

Unit shows 9.7 Ohm

Element goes out 11.5" then loops back 9.5"

I haven't played with it much yet but searching for other smaller elements I read this posted here


"DC and AC heating elements are the same - only the switching has an issue.  (Turning off DC is tougher, since the current doesn't conveniently stop 120 times a second or so to extinguish arcs.)"


Anyway just being crazy again but need some smaller elements, realy small about size of button on a shirt donut shaped and low voltage DC

Back to looking

« Last Edit: February 12, 2007, 10:05:45 PM by (unknown) »
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Darren73

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Re: Heating Element
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2007, 04:16:47 PM »
hi Coldspot,


The smaller heating elements you need, some more details would be useful, ie voltage, current, size in imperial or metric, might be able to help you out if you provide the info


Regards

Darren

« Last Edit: February 12, 2007, 04:16:47 PM by Darren73 »

Bruce S

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Re: Heating Element
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2007, 07:04:11 AM »
Coldspot;

   Putting on my Army hat and reading the info you gave, results in this being a 208v 4500 watt heater element The TGB stands for depending on which Army you bought it at either US=Transfer Gear Box, only knew of small heaters for older, MUCH older gear boxes in 2 1/2 or 5 ton trucks that used heaters for extreme cold areas, (frozen Tundra places) the 2453X2 means it's supposed to be a dual 2450+ element. the rest is for the type & model the unit is used for.

Knowing this , you could fire it up using AC or DC but to get any real heat out of it you're going to need the 208V . Warning though, some of these will burn up quick if they aren't able to get rid of the heat quick, and Some were taken out of commision for safety reasons, i.e. they shorten out in water :-(. during run times, which made it bad for the guy checking water temps.

If you only got the element, then it's good you only paid ~4USd for it.It's probably NOT a water heater element, but can be a real good dump load.


Have fun / play safe.


Bruce S

« Last Edit: February 13, 2007, 07:04:11 AM by Bruce S »
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coldspot

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Re: Heating Element
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2007, 01:44:50 AM »
Bruse-

Thanks

In front of the "TGB"

there is a symbol looks like

maybe

SA enclosed in a circle

Yea it won't do much hokedto 12 VDC

but did start to get warm when hooked to 120 V AC

I figured, for the $ spent

A braking type dump load minimum

Didn't think I could use it for much more than that.

Super small elements I will just build unless samples being sent work out.

For $2.00

I did pick-up an old 80's maybe even 70's hair blow

Dryer/styler yesterday and the 7 rows of N/wire coils from loosly spaced to tightly wound over waxy string between cardboard spacers, look pretty fun and a start to the crazy idea invention I dreamed up.

The hair dryer tested to work w/ power and had nice air flow, funny thing uses a little round, must be a bridge rec,(W02 7610) to power a "Mabuchi" "RS-36"

360 can size DC PM brushed motor turning the little squirlcage. Also has a thermo sensor,(120 V 5A) and a strange looking diode from its placement in circuit, has numbers but can't read untill removed.

Nwire coils read from 40 to about 10 Ohms for multi lengths to single length but can read about 2 Ohm from about an inch of it, still coiled up.

I'll remember some

V=IR

stuff and get what I'm trying to and maybe post later after testing

Dropped darn Digi cam once to many times so you people are safe from my picture happy days.

l8r

 
« Last Edit: February 14, 2007, 01:44:50 AM by coldspot »
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RP

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Re: Heating Element
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2007, 05:23:14 PM »
I've used old hair dryers for their parts before.  You'll find that the fan motor was in series with some of the coils.  I think I figured mine was about a 20 volt motor.  


The odd diode looking thing may be a diode to give half power to a coil.  More likely it's an in-line thermal fuse (one shot, non resetable) and probably kills everything if blown.

« Last Edit: February 14, 2007, 05:23:14 PM by RP »