Author Topic: 66" twisted plywood blades  (Read 1283 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

elt

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 328
66" twisted plywood blades
« on: July 23, 2007, 04:14:08 PM »
I need a set of fast five or six foot blades... I've already carved a set of seven foot and then ten foot blades from lumber and I just wanted to try something different.


I got some basic dimensions for 1.7 meter @ TSR 8 blades from Alton's propeller carving page and cut six pieces of 1/8" plywood to match the chords and radii then I set up the drops at distance on my workbench with some blocks of wood. I spread glue on two pieces of plywood and clamped then down on the bench.





The first test showed about 25% spring back so adjusted the block heights accordingly. The result was fairly repeatable. The bottom part of the picture shows all three blades standing next to each other; it almost looks like a solid block of wood.


I measured the actual angle at the root of the blade and made a jig to guide my router at the angle on the hub. I carved out a 3/4" deep slot in three passes. You can see the router guide in the lower right of this picture. I clamped it to the hub with two clamps then I cut the slot.





I put two brads in each blade to hold them on the hub, balanced them then hung them in front of a box fan.




They are turning about 10 rpm with the fan blowing on the center of the blades. (Can't tell from the pic, the flash not only froze the mill blade but froze the fan blades as well!)


... there's probably less than an hour of shop time in making these so far (though I did let the glue-up's sit overnight.) That's way faster and lot less wood chips than starting with a big chuck of wood.


I haven't sanded in the airfoil yet. There's only enough material for "full thickness" up to the outer 25% of the blade. From what I've read on the board, I suspect that's enough though I figure I could glue on some balsa or try again with three pieces of plywood if needed.


I know that some folks say that plywood isn't strong enough for blades but the twist in these adds a lot to their stiffness. If they still turn out not to be stiff enough, I'll give them a wrap in carbon fiber as I have a bit left over from a previous project.


- Ed.

« Last Edit: July 23, 2007, 04:14:08 PM by (unknown) »

RobC

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 180
Re: 66" twisted plywood blades
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2007, 01:11:20 PM »
I have been running plywood blades for almost 2 years now. The pics are in my diary if you want to see them.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2007, 01:11:20 PM by RobC »

hiker

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1661
  • BIG DOG
Re: 66" twisted plywood blades
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2007, 02:54:14 PM »
nice blades...

i would sink the blades deeper down in the hub..

lots of force there..mine are made from fence boards--tapered down towards the end..

airfoil backside..three bolts per blade..it does save a lot of carving having a slotted

angled hub......later.

« Last Edit: July 23, 2007, 02:54:14 PM by hiker »
WILD in ALASKA

Ungrounded Lightning Rod

  • SuperHero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 2865
Re: 66" twisted plywood blades
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2007, 05:21:45 PM »
Easier way to impart twist to wood or plywood:  Use several heat lamps - a few inches away from each side - to heat them up for a couple hours.  Then clamp them into the shape you want and let them cool.


The heat softens the material that holds the fibers in place - both the natural material in the wood and the glue between the plies.  You have to heat and cool it slowly so the heat penetrates the wood evenly rather than stressing it by differential expansion.


Look at how guitar makers do this for examples.


= = = =


That glue-it-into-a-slot approach strikes me as an invitation for flying blades to strike you.  IMHO you should make the slot a LOT deeper (or better yet make a pair of carved blocks to clamp the blade) and put some screws through the blade to hold it in place (which means you also need lots of blade material around where the screws penetrate so they hold it in rather than starting a split).

« Last Edit: July 23, 2007, 05:21:45 PM by Ungrounded Lightning Rod »