Author Topic: rotor vanes  (Read 1304 times)

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blueyonder

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rotor vanes
« on: December 03, 2007, 12:04:24 AM »
 at long last i am getting my mill to come to life.

  the first one i started on was no good as it would never put out enuff volts.

  when i bought it on ebay the guy said it will be good for 500 watts.

  so i bought two  .i dident want to be greedy and stack the two together so started to build one. i used a british layland mine wheel hub.  also made a 6foot prop. but when i tested the output on the lathe it wasent no good.

  just like a lot of stuff i got on ebay.

  so finding the otherpower site and getting the hughe piggot manual was the best thing i did .

   so starting again and trying to get as much fun as possible i started with the prop i had and also the yaw and tail bits i built for the 500 watt ebay no good bit of rubish.   so thought first i can build a small 6 coil 8 mags.

  i am not off grid so its not a rush to get asmuch power per pound£££.

  or dollar$$$$. i am not doing this to save a bit monie.  just doing it cos ive allways wanted to make my own power.

  if it works out more expensive then i dont charge myself for all the interest and learning i got from doing it.

  i also go sea fishing. its cheaper to get fish from the fishmonger than catch it myself. after paying for bait fual . the boat and all the rest that gos with it.

  but the enjoyment that comes from eating your own rod cought fish is great.

  so back to mill. i am trying to make every thing i can from bits of rubbish i allready have.  ok sumtimes i got to pay out but but i never saved enuff junk as i dident think i would ever build a wind turbine.

  but i never stop looking at things.  and im not ashemed to look in dumpsters skips in uk.

   so got the rotor done and put a few pics on so you can look at how i put sum

 vanes on rotor for air movement  i dont think i will over heat the coils but im doing this as a mk 1. later i can go ahead with twin rotors 24 mags.

  i have made the stator mould.  for the 6 coils and will also try put sum vanes

 on it . but going the other way.  i cant see the vanes on the rotor doing any harm.

  oh the blue stuff i used is called blue tack.   my grand doughter went off with all my plastisene when i went to the pound shop thay had none.  so got this for a pound££. just a wee bit messy cleaning out the slots it made.

  its not perfect i got air bubbles in the resin.

   but i do thank every one on this forum for giving there free advise. cheers.

  will post this then add pics . last time i did this i lost every thing i typed doh.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2007, 12:04:24 AM by (unknown) »

kurt

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Re: rotor vanes
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2007, 05:26:19 PM »
blueyonder i removed your comment with all the pictures because each picture was over 800KB each in size we have a rule here that pictures have to be under 150KB and less than 640 x 480 pixels please review the rules of this board and then resize your photos and repost. you can find the rules here http://www.fieldlines.com/special/faq

thank you


Kurt

« Last Edit: December 02, 2007, 05:26:19 PM by kurt »

blueyonder

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Re: rotor vanes
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2007, 05:34:00 PM »
 hi kurt im a bit new to this posting pics. but i thought thay were ok.

 as far as i understood in a diary it was ok..

  but i will try understand what i am doing wrong.

  i will look at the pics again cheers mate. john
« Last Edit: December 02, 2007, 05:34:00 PM by blueyonder »

kurt

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Re: rotor vanes
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2007, 06:15:52 PM »
are you trying to frustrate me or what you did not reduce the photo's file sizes at all you just reposted them. get some good photo editing software like http://www.irfanview.com/  or

http://www.snapfiles.com/get/photofiltre.html both of those are freeware  and easy to use just open the images in the program then resave and reduce the image quality to about 50% that should get you close then check the file size before uploading and adjust as necessary


Kurt.

« Last Edit: December 02, 2007, 06:15:52 PM by kurt »

blueyonder

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Re: rotor vanes
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2007, 06:32:05 AM »
sorry



















« Last Edit: December 03, 2007, 06:32:05 AM by blueyonder »

Stonebrain

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Re: rotor vanes
« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2007, 12:11:54 PM »
Neat Idea about that vanes.Your work looks good.


I think it is possible to improve cooling this way.


I remark some things from your pics(thanks for rezising):


1)The vanes are nearly touching the magnets near the outer edge.There is no space for    

  the air to flow to the outside.In my opinion it would be better to make them straight                            

  in the middle of two magnets.This will give the air maximum space to move.the air is  

  pushed to the outside by centrifugal force straight to the outer circle.


2)The air from the inside must come from somewhere You would need wholes in the rotors  

  to take this air in.


Just my thoughts,


cheers,

stonebrain

« Last Edit: December 04, 2007, 12:11:54 PM by Stonebrain »

ghurd

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Re: rotor vanes
« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2007, 12:42:02 PM »
Good thoughts.

Could make a groove ahead of the vane for more circulation.

G-
« Last Edit: December 04, 2007, 12:42:02 PM by ghurd »
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blueyonder

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Re: rotor vanes
« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2007, 04:13:24 PM »
 i must admit i enjoy playing. but dont we all.

  this is a proto type or maybe the mrk 1. a mill this smalll wont need cooling

 but its good to try it out first on a small one. it will be so helpfull when i do a twin rotor.  so far i have finished the rotor  and need to be busy now with the stater.

  it is my plan to make vanes on the stator aswell.  but vanes going the other way.

  so vanes will be like a X. one facing the other.

  on a single rotor stater there will be plenty cooling.

  but i may aswell and try putting vanes on the stater.

  if in future i wanted to put vanes on both sides of a stater.  then i might find that a bit more of a problem.

  so i will try it first on a small one.

  i have made the mould for the stater . but as yet havent tried a test coil.

   ive made the coils from scrap. oh dear you must be saying.lol.

  but it was a old step down transformer it went from 230 volt a c.  down to 110 ac.

  i have no tools that run on 110 volts. so it was a doner for me to try wind sum coils.

 i spent so much time looking at photos of others coils that i was desperate to try wind sum myself.

   that was a great learning curve.

  yep i made a winder from bits laying about.  spent a verry long time trying to get the wire off old transformer.

  but in the end i was verry happy with what i did.

  i learned a lot.

  one of the things i learned i was verry unhappy with.

 that was trying to count the turns and wind coil at the same time.

  to be honest i dont know if the amount of turns are correct.

  so doing a test on lathe might help.

   such a simple thing to do -count to 80.   one time the wire was nearly over the top of the winder.  so i had to unwind it and start again

  ok i done that lots.lol.

  stupid old git i am.   but i did try and get the wieght the same.  

   as it was not new wire it was coverd in bits of varnish.

  this i tried to clean off.  and to get the kinks bends out i put it under tensoin.

  then i found i was stretching the copper wire. it was so easey to do.

  maybe when i get nice new wire i wont have such a problem.

  if the coils i have made dont show good readings i might have to start again.

  as it happend the wire size was 15 awg.  then as i got to the bottom .

 i think it was 18awg. a lot thinner so wound two wires here.

  odd thing was it said transformer was made in england so dont understand wire size.

  ok i will be honest now im not sure of the wire size.

 at the time it looked right.

 any help with best way to test a coil on single rotor will be a help.

    cheers to the friendly power .com
« Last Edit: December 04, 2007, 04:13:24 PM by blueyonder »