HELP ALL Gearheads!!

[RogerAS]

Hey ALL,

Something happened today that really gets my goat. I am hoping the collective brain trust of this forum can direct me in a helpful manner.

I have a 1992 Ford Ranger XLT 4WD 2.3 liter 5 speed. I changed the 8 plug wires and plugs (no easy task but overdue). When I finished I went to start the engine. It cranks over just fine, but there is no spark from EITHER coil pack. I tried with known sparking plugs and replaced the old plugs and have worked on it all day. I checked every single fuse and fusable link and all test good. The fuel pump pressurizes and the injectors are working.  To say I'm frustrated is an understatement as it refuses to even begin to fire.

I replaced the DIS module on the intake from a known working engine of the same year. A friend suggests the crank position sensor or main computer. Since I am many many miles from a diagnostic system this is a real issue. If a solution can not be found I will have to load the damned thing on to a trailer and haul it to a service center. I will have to borrow a trailer and a truck to pull it on top of all that. Either that or hire a tow truck to come all the way out here in the woods and that will be big bucks.

The money my wife and I have been saving for some solar panels and this money does not need to go into a never ending repair bill for a truck as old as this one. It was running just fine Friday evening on the way home from work. I just thought I'd do this to help the MPG. That's what I get for thinking.

I cannot believe Detroit has engineered a system wherein a plug/wire replacement COULD possibly shut down the engine. I've owned this truck for over 12 years and done this at least three other times. I rebuilt this engine and aside from a clutch replacement all work has been done by me. This is a fine example of why fuel injection/computer control is a bad idea. A carb and distributor never caused these issues!

ANY help of advice at all will be greatly appreciated.

[jonas302]

Roger shoot me an e-mail I'm sure we can figure it out

Jonas302 yahoo

[RogerAS]

Jonas,

Will do. What addy?

[LarryDalooza]

Does this have an "ignition module" on the distributor that you can replace.

[RogerAS]

Duh, didn't read the closing right.

[jonas302]

jonas302@yahoo . com

[spinningmagnets]

Take the fat central wire from between the distributor and the coil. Disconnect it from one end or the other. Hold it about 1/2 inch from its socket while someone is turning over the engine.

You should be able to see the spark jumping through the air (better at night). A blue spark is good, a red spark is weak, and no spark is a clear symptom.

Try it first on a working car so you'll be certain you know what its suppose to look like. Possibly consider replacing the old wires, the new ones could be defective...

[TomW]

Possibly consider replacing the old wires, the new ones could be defective...

Darned good point. Lots of folks don't realize new does not necessarily mean good.

Tom

[RogerAS]

Hey all,

This engine does NOT have a conventional distributor system. Coil packs (2).

There is no spark at all, blue yellow, or any shade thereof, on new wires old wires new plugs old. Doesn't matter. It is as if the coil packs are dead.

I ain't a newbie on this folks. I have been under the hood of more cars n trucks than I care to think about. Something is wrong with one of the many many sensors associated with the feakin' fuel injection/computer system or the wiring feeding them.

Jonas suggested a fix and I'll look into that in AM. It could be a grounding issue with one of the modules/sensors. I may have disturbed the grounding while removing or replacing the wires n plugs. The whole engine compartment is filled with wires n vacuum hoses.

Fuel system is pressurized and injectors are firing.

While modern fuel management systems are all that when they are working the issue is when they don't. It only takes three things to make a gasoline internal combustion engine run. Fuel-air mix, ignition at the proper time and enough cylinder compression to burn the fuel-sir mix.

I had a '78 Toyota Corolla (carb/dist) that got 54 MPG. A new Prius can only manage 40. What's wrong with that picture?

[tecker]

There's a blu and green and a red and or that go to from the ingrinion control mod to the coils (blu grn pri red or sec ) check power to thse with the key on. You have a shorting bar yellow green from the power train mod to the ign mod . A noise cap could have gotten shorted that can be disconnected to test that . The crank posistion sensor is probably the problem some times it loosens up or gets smacked .  

[vawtman]

Hi Rodger

 Have you ever replaced the timing belt?I've seen it where the belt skips a few teeth and shut down the spark.

 Not a hard fix.

 Mark

[vawtman]

It does this to protect the motor i beleive since it's overhead cam.Those other plugs were added to meet some pollution standards.

[spinningmagnets]

Did some Googling, the 2.3L twin-plug engine was available in several models, the Mustangs seem to have the most active forums. Someone else HAS to have had a similar problem, there were millions of 2.3's sold. Here's one thread from what looks to be a fairly deep forum archive:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2-3l-tech/113583-1992-mustang-2-3-won.html

Best of luck...

[RogerAS]

Vawtman,

Yes I have replaced it (belt) before. The current one is in good shape with less than 25K miles on it. I will double check a little later by pulling #1 and looking at the notch on the cam pulley.

I replaced the crank position sensor today along with IDS box on the intake yesterday. Still no luck. That crank sensor is a real bitch to get at btw. I don't see why that couldn't have been placed at the cam pulley.

I followed Jonas' advice and still no go.

I think the main computer has died, but a guy is coming over with his diagnostic computer either this afternoon or tomorrow evening.

It still pisses me off that an engine can be so screwed up so easy.

[vawtman]

Hi again Rog

 The crank sensor is a real pain but i think thats more for the fuel delivery.You got fuel.

 Just trying to help.

 Mark

[oztules]

Sometimes it is useful to reset the ECU.

Disconnect the battery for 5 mins or so . This should clear the memory.

It then has to reboot and post check...... and  hopefully you will find the thing works.

I know it sounds stupidly simple but has worked for me once before.

not much to lose..... but just maybe....

........oztules

[elvin1949]

Rodger

 At least yours fires both plugs at the same time.

The first 8 plug 2.3 did not [1989].

 Check the ground from the battery to the motor block first.Then go inside the main power center [distribution] box [ right behind the battery ] and check the RELAY'S and power fuses there.By the way ford computers control the ground circuits not the hot circuits.Which means that if you have fire to the ignition modules you have a ground problem.

 There is also a ground under the same box that has the relays and master fuses in it.

 Somewhere around here i think i have a book on that truck.That is if my friend with the same truck brought it back,will look and see.

later

Elvin