Windows

[WannaDoWindmills]

Our windows are fairly new to the house.  They are double paned, tilt in, etc.  But, I swear they are still drafty.  Do you suppose it is possible that they weren't insulated all around the edges before the trim work was put up?  I hate to start prying boards off if it is really unlikely... because I'm likely to ruin the trim & then get into a whole new project of cutting, staining, and installing new trim.

[halfcrazy]

are they actually replacement windows or did you install the whole window as you would in new construction? if they are replacement windows where the old ones real old? like having weights and rope? I have seen many times over installers cut the ropes and slide replacement windows in and there is a huge void in there where the weights are.

[WannaDoWindmills]

The windows were here when we bought the house.  The people before us were deceased and their son didn't know anything about the house.  So, I don't know.

[ghurd]

"windows are fairly new" and "people before us were deceased and their son didn't know anything".

Sounds like it would have been very easy to cut corners.  And nobody would have noticed.

Simple trim can be removed.  Get a nail set and thin punch.  Drive the nails in deep.  Carefully pry and walk the trim off the nails.  Remove the nails from the studs.

Can replace with a step heavier nail, or slightly bend the same size nail.

Caulk the far side of the back of the large gaps before insulating.  Takes creativity sometimes.

Around the windows will not help a whole lot if the walls are not insulated.

G-

[WannaDoWindmills]

I'm not saying the son is the one that replaced the windows, because I don't think he did.  It was more likely to be one of the former owners, and they were most likely using a contractor.

The house is brick, wouldn't that automatically give the walls some insulation, making the window project still worthwhile?

I still like the idea of sealing the walls.  I'm guessing I need to make sure the walls don't open right into the crawlspace (seal them if they do).  Then, go into the attic and blow some insulation down into each section.

[thirteen]

you might try using a candle next to the windows and watch the flame move to point an open area or maybe have someone use a cigar outside the windows and fallow the smoke ot the smell of smoke. It might be easier to open a wall to check for no insulation. If you have a fire department that has a heat emaging senser they might use your house as a practice. Just an idea

[ghurd]

Brick means working from the inside.  Or letting a bunch of 3rd graders make holes in your house with big large-diameter hole-making power tools.

Brick is fine.  I guess.  Never know what is behind it or where leaks exist. Small leak at the bottom and top make a mini heat sucking chimney.

I can see daylight from my basement out of those 8" thick un-drillable red cinder blocks.  No idea what I should do about it, but smoke signals show wind when the forcat is calm.  From inside is easier.

I expect brick is better because wind doesn't blow through it...  As FAST as around AL and vinyl?

My thought is great insulation is great.  If the wind blows around the insulation, it keeps YOU as warm as an expensive coat... being worn by your friend.

"the walls don't open right into the crawlspace"

I can not imagine the construction logistics (suspend 2x4s before nailing?).

Need to watch the 'stink pipe', drains, ambitious cable guy with big tools...

More chance the walls open into the attic.  Half the walls did that here.  Was almost 'wind' rising through there.  Panned In ducts, plumbing, wiring, 100 years of repairs...

Insulation can't get past (below?) windows.

Insulating half-heartedly is like;

installing an R-1000 door, and leaving it open.

good house windows, left in the back of the truck.

a Prius in the garage, but taking the Hummer because you found those keys first.

[bj]

   Nettie--you've had lots of good advice here.  Ghurd's method of removing

trim works well.  With a bit of caution you won't wreck any trim.

   Worth noting because I didn't see it mentioned, is expanding foam for

sealing around windows.  Works great, but don't use the high expanding

stuff.  It can actually damage things.  Just make sure you cover anything

below where you are working until you get used to using the stuff.  Most

people put in too much, and as it expands, watch a big yellow glop land

on the floor.  If you do get it on something other than intended, clean it

up right away.  Uncured it's easy, cured it's close to impossible.      Big windows that open should be braced temporarily in a few places, until

the foam sets.

  I have one nice double hung one that will never open again. A lesson.

  Big project, have fun.

  bj

[luv2weld]

Is your kitchen sink on an outside wall??? Make a half-moon notch

next to a pipe under the cabinet to see what's inside the wall.

Use a flashlight to look inside the wall.

How about the pipes in the bathroom??

Got a light switch on an outside wall??? Take the cover off the

switch and make a SMALL notch next to the box. If you make too big

a notch, over size cover plates are available.

Ralph

[WannaDoWindmills]

How completely odd.  In the whole house, there is only one thing on the outside walls.  And, that is an outlet.

[TomW]

wannadowindmills:

You could try a poor persons pressurization test.

Put a big as possible furnace blower / box fan in one of your windows [or door] pointing in. Up here in the cold country the problem is not finding leaks we just look for ice on the inside. Seal it in as best as possible with plywood, duct tape etc. Now close the place up, fire up the fan / blower. Walk around inside with a stick of incense [burning] Make note of how the smoke acts around windows and doors. Commercial devices do this with panel of blowers that replace a door. Try it blowing in and sucking out. Should help pinpoint the worst areas quickly.

Be sure to check that flue dampers are closed and check the pilots on any gas devices with a vent like a water heater. Blowing air around might mess with the stand pipe for drains by forcing the water seal in the gooseneck out too so be aware of that. Nothin as fun and delightful as the aroma of sewer gas in the house.

Otherwise get a thermal image  with one of those infrared cameras. Not everyone has access to the high tech cameras.

Just a [possibly bad] idea to find air leaks.

Good luck with it.

Tom