Well may I offer another point of view, and some observations.
I have been taught a few things burning wood for heat most of my life that seems to go against most common advice I hear today.
I am by NO means an expert at this stuff!! just what seems to make sense, or works for me.
First we normaly let the fire go out or at least let the house cool over night and use heavier blankets, although the bedrooms tend to stay quite warm. Each morning the fire gets re-lit when needed again and allowed to blaze as hot as possible until the house is back to norm. I've been told this is just asking for a chimney fire, however I have never had much build up to worry about this way. It seems to either burn out while there is only very little to worry about, or re-vaporize and dissapate outside the flu doing this every morn. But the flu always gets a cleaned regular no matter if it seems to need it or not.
(let me know if I am totaly off my rocker)
Disclaimer to try to cover my butt
This is what has worked for me and my family under known long present conditions, I cannot tell you this is best or even a good idea for anywhere else.
I wouldnt recommend this if the stove is in any way around anything that just might be flammable while abnormaly hot, old or thin stove pipe, or a lot of flu buld up already.
Second thing that seems to help is a LOT of solid heat storage.
Air heats fairly fast but is displaced, and/or cools fast, so you cant burn hot and hope it lasts long. if you heat something solid ( rock, fire brick , sand, cast iron, etc, etc) it can take a hot fast burn to minimize smoldering wood that builds crap in the flu. The solid heat storage gives off the heat relativly slowly over a longer period into the air to help with losses of heat in the air.
This last one because VERY appartent in how our oil furnace worked compared to wood heat. The oil furnace burns hot, but has a large air flow past a thin heat exchange. The heat from this never seemed the same. I spent a long time trying to figure this out, so I tried a few experiments. Finaly I added a rack (made from cast iron) inside the heat plenem on top of the furnace for firebrick, which allowed air flow around each brick. After that the furnace came on a LOT less and used somewhat less fuel. The house also lost the cold spots that were present with only the oil furnace.
I am placing my bets on the heat convection that continues after the fan is off always moving the air in the house much like the wood furnace.
Another trick I just have done with this wood furnace is I added a 12 inch pipe around the 8 inch from the stove to the chimney, placing a "T" where the elbow to the chimney is, then piping that strait up to a vent in the floor above, the convection from this is amazing but some thought had to go into isolating it from flammables (and kids) cause its pretty hot. I also keep a close eye in this and check that 8 inch pipe when I clean the chimney for and troubles just in case. This keeps the area around the stove a lot less hot in just one spot.
I am playing with an idea of adding the forced air option (to firebox) to this eood furnace, but piping in ouside air to the blower. I really dont have a clue how this will affect anything yet.
Wolv