3 Phase Motor Conversion

[mowind]

hi , I recently did a motor conversion .The motor was a  3 phase 1hp 6 pole 1092 RPM  240/480V three phase induction motor.It was a brand new motor. I would like to wire it in star  and delta  for testing .But my problem is i don't understand the numbering on the 12 wires  that is has .There are two set of six wires each in three different colours.

Set one is numbered as follows :- Brown - U1 , U3 .  Green - V1 , V3  . Yellow - W1 , W3.

Set Two is numbered as follows :- Brown - U2 , U4 . Green - V2 , V4 .  Yellow - W2 , W4 .

How can i wire these in Star ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance .

Ken

[ghurd]

Look here,

http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2008/12/9/20218/7810

G-

[mowind]

Thanks for your very quick reply , Ghurd  , but that's not what i was looking for . It seems the numbering of the wires is not  North American . It's most likely European .I think the normal American numbering would have been from 1 to 12  but the numbering on this motor is different. Thanks .

TomW , sorry for the shouting but it was the shout of a drowning man and i thought the louder i shout the better i would be heard . Sorry again , my friend .

[ghurd]

U, V and W are the phases.

The green throws off anything I can find.  Leaving trial and error, unless someone else speaks up.

Test the ends to find which is which.

U1 may go with U2 (US 1, 4?).  U3 with U4 (US 7, 10?).

Test open V of one coil at a known and stead RPM.

Connect in series.  It should double.  This would be the same as 4 and 7 connected together, and 1 and 10 as output of one phase.

If it is near 0V, then reverse one coil.

If it is below 15% less than double, the coils are not from the same phase.

For Star, looks like all 3 #4s get connected.

G-

[vawtman]

 Does it have schematic on the nameplate?Most motors do.

[mowind]

Thanks again, Ghurd. I did a continuity test and it seems U1 goes with U2 and U3 with U4. Assuming that this is correct , how would the other wires be numbered in US ? i will try to do a voltage test later this week . thanks .

Ken

[ghurd]

Same pattern.

Brown - U1 (1), U3 (7).  Green - V1 (2), V3  (. Yellow - W1 (3), W3 (9).

Brown - U2 (4), U4 (10). Green - V2 (5), V4 (11).  Yellow - W2 (6), W4 (12).

Verify it with the meter.

Connect U2 and U3 together.  Test open V from U1 to U4.  It should be double of either coil alone.

If the open V is near 0V, then swap 1 and 4, 2 and 5, 3 and 6 in the list above.

Test with low RPMs at first.  Series-Star 1-Y has a chance of blowing the bridges from over voltage.

If it works well, I expect for 12V, connected in 1-J, 2-J, or 2-Y (in the link) will be best.

G-

[mowind]

Ghurd , you were right again. It is the same pattern. I  have an electric drill that says  0 - 2800 RPM. I used it to do an open volts test as you said . I did the test  without rectifiers first.I don't know  if the rpm of the drill is correct but assuming it is correct then i am getting 150 VAC. When i connect it in series i am getting double as you said.  

I then connected it in star and i am  getting  550 VAC open at full speed (2800 rpm ).

I have a little panel with rectifiers and an analog amp  meter.I did an open volt test with the rectifiers connected. I noticed the longer i spin it the the volts keep increasing.I saw up to 770 vdc open then i stopped. i connected the motor to it  with a light bulb (did not have a battery handy ).The drill could hardly spin the motor with the bulb connected  but i am seeing about 124Vdc and about 1 amp . Right now the drill is the only thing that i have available to spin the motor.

Is this how it should be ?Does anything sound out of norm here ? Do you or anyone else have any thoughts or suggestions ?Thanks

Ken

[ghurd]

Be Careful.

Make sure the rectifiers can handle the voltage.  200V is common.

I do not think it's a good idea to test over 300V,

and never 600V for any reason.  

Liable to get some shoted coils or something.

Not sure why the voltage would increase over time, unless the drill speed picked up some.  It could.

The system voltage will determine how to connect it.

Do not chase charging voltage at too low of an RPM.  It will stall.  And the resistance will be higher than other configurations.

All totally normal.  Except you did it pretty well for a first try!

Curious.  How is the cogging?  What size magnets?

G-

[mowind]

Ghurd , i have a confession to make. This is not my first motor conversion but i never came across the numbering system that was on this motor so i was a bit confused .i did two more previously  , including a 7.5 hp motor , and they both turned out well .I guess the reason for  all my success is because i got a lot of help  from Zubbly .I'll never forget him .I never managed to fly any of them because i live Toronto in a condo.All of my work was done in my sitting room and in a 4' x 5' locker room in the basement of the condo.The magnets i used on all of my conversions were curved and skewed , hence no cogging.

On this last conversion the magnets were were curved and skewed and measured about 5" x 1.5" x 3/8" .They each had holes to screw them down but i just glued them down instead .More than 75% of the rotor is  covered with magnets .

Have you done any conversions ?Do you have any motor that you might want to convert ?  I do have some #29 magnets.I can give you some if you are interested .

Thanks

Ken

[ghurd]

I have done a lot of conversions.  Too many.  LOL

Same problem you have.  No space to fly something larger than a toy at home.

Can fly one at the solar-powered shop, but not enough battery to handle something serious, and no need of extra power 8 months a year.

I am focused on smaller PMAs lately.  1/2HP and under.  Mostly well under.

Could use some #29s, but they wouldn't get applied like they should.  Best save them for your own use.

If you have some burning desire to be rid of them... Who am I to argue!  LOL

G-

[mowind]

Ghurd , don't worry . I have enough for myself plus extras. These are not the regular #29's. I think the originals had 90 degree corners but the ones i have are slanted (skewed) . Email me your shipping info  to kendyal at hotmail dot com  and i will send you a few . I guess you know what to do to the email address , at = @ and dot = . .  thanks .

Ken