Author Topic: wind  (Read 2425 times)

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Jason Wilkinson

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wind
« on: February 01, 2010, 02:42:24 PM »
Someone raised the issue of heat sinks and material used some time back, i used the heatsink from old pc's, 3 bridge rectifiers just make fit to the back. Should there be room for cooling? I find at 20 amps they get a bit worm

 ps i have a pix to show but need help uploading

  Jason
« Last Edit: February 01, 2010, 02:42:24 PM by (unknown) »

tanner0441

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Re: wind
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2010, 03:57:02 PM »
Hi


If you are using CPU heat sinks at 20A I would prefer one per rectifier.


Brian

« Last Edit: February 01, 2010, 03:57:02 PM by tanner0441 »

TomW

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Re: wind
« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2010, 04:25:54 PM »
I would say add a fan may help, also but more heat sink is more reliable with no moving parts.


Tom

« Last Edit: February 01, 2010, 04:25:54 PM by TomW »

Ronnn

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Re: wind
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2010, 10:55:15 AM »
I have only done this a time or two but if you go to the right side of the page where the boxes are you can read about how to upload files if you click on `How to use the board'.Scroll down to the photo section. The next link you need is `Your Photo Uploads'. Two boxes down from the How to use the board link you will find the link to the page where you navigate to the files on your computer and select them for uploading. A bit of exploration of these two pages should get you some results. I haven't figured out how to get them in my posts yet. To see what I have uploaded I have to click on `Your Photo uploads' and I  can view the pics. on that page. You have to be signed in to do most of this stuff. It took me a few tries to get things working.


Ron

« Last Edit: February 02, 2010, 10:55:15 AM by Ronnn »

Jason Wilkinson

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Re: wind
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2010, 06:54:10 PM »
Thanks for the comments & tips fellows, my son has chipped in to help me with his laptop  and the file is uploaded (the young generation   boy oh boy)  I want to make this my new heat sink,4 pieces of 5mm aluminum, the base is 5x3  and the 3 uprights are 3x3,the bridge rectifiers will be mounted on the three uprights .i think this should make a better heat sink than than the cpu heat sink. Has anyone ever used copper as a heat sink ?
« Last Edit: February 02, 2010, 06:54:10 PM by Jason Wilkinson »

Flux

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Re: wind
« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2010, 01:00:53 AM »
Those bridge rectifiers do seem to have more losses than using individual diodes and need more heat sink. They are designed to run up to a junction temperature of about 150 deg C, that means that the base of the module can run up to somewhere like 60C allowing for the internal heat transfer.


For wind duty with high spikes of current it is better to keep the base temperature lower than this so as long as you can stand your hand in the base of the module comfortably don't worry if it is warm unless you expect to use it over the 20A you mention.


There are two things with heat sinks, the thermal conductivity must be high to get the heat away from the base and the surface area must be sufficient to dissipate the heat once you have got it into the fins. Commercial heat sinks are designed for convection cooling or forced air cooling, the proportions are different, a cpu sink is force cooled and will have the necessary conductivity bit will be low in surface area for natural cooling.


Cooper has a slightly better thermal conductivity and can be thinner for the main conduction away from the base of the module but you will need very similar surface area for natural cooling.


More important is that you get the best possible thermal contact between the metal pad on the module and your heat sink, keep things flat with no burrs and use heat sink compound. Unless you get the heat directly into the heat sink you will fry the bridge with only a low temperature rise on your sink.


I couldn't get at your picture but your description sounds adequate for 20A if the mounting is good.


Flux

« Last Edit: February 03, 2010, 01:00:53 AM by Flux »

tecker

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Re: wind
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2010, 06:30:34 AM »
I think you have to run the rectifiers though a full cycle to really see the rectifiers heat sinking . The epoxy packs need to be less than the max for the pack  for instance the 26mb120a lists at 65  C but it's out of range for the type of material at 50 C generally if you want to see 20amps go for with a bridge with a 4 amp single diode mod  in parallel easy to do and it will smoke before the bridge.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2010, 06:30:34 AM by tecker »

Jerry

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Re: wind
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2010, 11:51:30 AM »
Will perelelling diodes increase amperage capability?


Jerry

« Last Edit: February 05, 2010, 11:51:30 AM by Jerry »

tecker

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Re: wind
« Reply #8 on: February 06, 2010, 04:47:21 AM »
 Yes if you have good connections.
« Last Edit: February 06, 2010, 04:47:21 AM by tecker »

Jerry

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Re: wind
« Reply #9 on: February 06, 2010, 11:05:44 AM »
Thanks tecker.


Thats good news. In my speaker basket dual rotor alt I've been usin the littel black epoxi diodes.


I've wanted to use the 6 amp but there diameter is prohibitive. I've been using the smaller diameter 3 amp diodes. However there is room to double them up shoulder to shoulder.


I've been using 4 configured as a fullwave bridge for each coil. However I'm in the prosses of build a larger more powerfull alt needing higher amperage diodes.


I'm building a 14-11 48 volt. This new configuration then will be 8 diodes per coil, with 88 diodes total for this new alt.


Thats a poop load of diodes but they are very cheap.


Jerry

« Last Edit: February 06, 2010, 11:05:44 AM by Jerry »