Looking for G-Code for 60" blades.

[NeilMan]

 Just wondering if anyone has writen G-code for the 10ft dia blades, I have seen other posts on this site but none of them are for the 60" blades, I have a pretty big CNC (5X10) 3 Axis , it will do the 3d cutting, but just don't have the know how when it comes to 3d stuff.I could possibly cut blades for anyone that has the G-code.

Regards,

NeilMan

[finnsawyer]

O.K., I get the manual for programming in G-code and write the program to cut my blades and you'll do it?  They may not be 60 inches and they surely wouldn't follow the usual pattern.  Where are you located?

[NeilMan]

I'm from Ontario, I was hoping to cut the same type that they use here for the 10ft diy genny. I would do one side at a time. If you supply the code I'll cut them for ya, I'll supply the wood (3 blades) you take care of the shipping. Hopefully they won't take to long to mill.

NeilMan

[NeilMan]

If you have a solid 3d dwg file or a Dxf file for this blade i think i might be able to put some toolpaths on it.

NeilMan

[finnsawyer]

It might be something I'll have to look into in the future.  Not right now, though.  Considering that others have wanted big bucks to tool up (program?) to make blades, your offer is certainly attractive.  Please keep us posted.

[methanolcat]

    Does your mill program in conversational as well? what is the make and model of the mill?

    I program and run a hurco hawk40, travel is 20 x 40 inches. I made a set of 3 blades each 48" long for an 8' diameter. (see files).

    Your going to spend a lot of time programing to get the first one right (it took me well over 8 hours to program mine and I have over 10 years in programing), but once you have the program then its smooth sailing from there. The program is saved and now takes me 1 hour to machine each blade, 30 minutes each side in 2 set-up's using 2 programs.

    One way to do it is to make a blade blank, fasten it to the table, then using a probe (or end mill blank, same shape as end mill but with no flutes) the same size as the cutter you will be using (I used 3/4 ball nose end mill) bring the head down and probe the blade blank to get as many points as you see fit to write your program to reproduce the blade blank. I know it can be done because I did it.

    All your points should be close to each other because from point to point is a straight line, so many many small short straight lines will get you nice curves and minimal sanding.

    I used conversational programming but could have done it just the same with G-code, either producing the same results.

    If you can program 2-D then I know you can do what I described but it will take some time, I moved from + to - in the Y axis and up and down with the Z to get the shape, then stepped over in the X to produce the length of the blade.

    For my first set of blades the face was flat(no twist) but the air foil side gradually tapered from root to tip over the complete surface.

    I have hand carved a very similar set of blades and in no way do they perform near as well as the ones I CNC cut,I'm not sure why that is either because they nearly look identical.

    One last thing, just to give you and everyone else an idea of where I'm coming from I plotted well over 900 points to machine the airfoil side of the blade.

    Good luck and I'll be looking forward to see a finished product from you.

.

[Tobb1]

Hi.

I have uploaded 2 files that might help you.

You can use " Freemill " to look at the .stl file and make the G-code.

Mvh.Tobb1

[NeilMan]

My machine is a ANDI 5X10 Nesting machine, I don't think I can probe it like you were

describing but I will look into that, the pic's you have of your blades look great, 1 hour for 1 blade is not to bad, this ANDI is pretty fast 1960"per min, so hopefully it will cut them out fast, well thanks for all the info

I will post the blades in my file section as soon as I have them made,(if I get them made this year)

NeilMan

[NeilMan]

Thanks  , I will view them and let you know if I can use them, are you looking for

a set of  60" blades?

[wdyasq]

I always enjoy these posts .... "I'm looking for (insert type file here) for a (insert blade size here) set of blades."

There is never a mention of the infamous "TSR" which IMO, is manure ... no mention of what speed the builder needs to get power out .... seldom does the builder have the knowledge of wood to even laminate the blanks properly or select the proper wood for building a proper set of blades. If an airfoil is selected it is usually for an airplane that operated at several hundred miles an hour.

I have never known the mention of holding fixtures and other CRITICAL things related to cutting blades properly.

Good luck. In my files there are some drawings in various formats named 'lakota' and various suffixes. I modeled those from pictures of a lakota wind turbine blade.

Good luck,

Ron

[Tobb1]

Hi.

I am located in Norway,so it is a little difficult with the blades.

The drawing is made after the instruction on this side: http://otherpower.com/bladecarving.html .It is metric,and the length is 1524 mm

Mvh. Tobb1

[NeilMan]

I think you did a great job on the blade drawings, the Freemill software is pretty neat, has some bugs but it will help me alot with making the toolpaths.

Thanks

[NeilMan]

I just want to thank everyone that helped me out with the G-Code ,Tobb1 gave me some great drawings and a software link and it helped me alot, I was able to cut one side of the blade today on my CNC, It took 14min @ 200" per min, I just have to get a ball end  bit to do the job the right. I will post the results as soon as the blades are finished.  

NeilMan

[wdyasq]

Unless the blade has some reverse curves, they can be cut faster and more accurately with a flat bottom cutter. I does take a bit of geometry knowledge and some thinking.

Ron