I'm sorry, but I don't have time for a full write up yet. The Ames energy fair is saturday. I can give you a little info each day maybe, starting with the generator.
Here is a shot of the generator without the rubbermaid housing, mounted to my shop bench. There is one rotor with stators on either side. The rotor has 12 N45 neos. About 3 lb of 18 awg copper and 12 coils in each stator. 48 oz of resin for a rotor and 30 for a stator. Use 1ml catalyst per 5oz. Let it cure really slowly over 24 hours to reduce warping. Make molds with a sheet of glass, even better. Lots of wax paper, lots of Vaseline. When cured, Support all stationary corners with a 5/16 threaded rod and lock washers. The central axle is 1/2" diameter, and the stationary plate has 3 rotating 3/8" bolts. The overall width and the rotor diameter is 14". It is important that the device is adjustable because resin will flow over long periods of time. It is also important to get the coils as close to the stators as possible by adjusting the corner points. Size the rotor so that peak conditions are about 25 mph, it will self govern past that point. Test the rotor free wheeling and determine the necessary gear ratio to get 10 rps at the generator. Assume that the loaded rotor will turn 1/3 slower. A tall thin rotor like this one will usually achieve 4 rps in a 25mph wind, so loaded it would be 2.7rps. That means you need a 4:1 gear drive to get the 10 rps at the generator. Use a no. 41 roller chain drive and order the sprockets. I get my bearings and sprockets at Theisens. 2 5/8" pillow block bearings on the turbine horizontal spars, and two plate bearings at either side of the generator. When the wind blows 25mph, the rotor turns 2.7 rps, and the generator turns 10.8rps, and produces a peak 9 amps, 48 volts into 4 batteries, or a grid tie. The best generator produces high voltage and low amperage to carry a larger amount of power on the same wire.
