if you don't have more of them for a series setup (or if you have to charge them
while they're 'online' so you can not series them) then you could put a 'regulator' at the output for a nice solution. A regulator is a little device that will clip the input voltage using a zener diode to the desired output voltage.
It will still have to have a higher output voltage than the nominal battery voltage, otherwise they will never get charged. Another option
(a little more expensive, but it would be more efficient) is to use a
switching regulator, also called dc-to-dc convertor. The best way to compare
these two is to think of it as a butcher that gives you a 'flat' steak from
a thicker one. In the case of the normal (linear) regulator the butcher will 'slice'
the top part of the steak and toss it in the garbage (heatloss), the switching
regulator is more like pounding the steak until it reaches the desired overall
thickness. Same thickness steak, but you get much more of it
For a quick and dirty solution, just hook it up and check with an amp meter that
in full sun you are not exceeding the panels maximum current rating (check
it briefly, not for hours !). Some kind of charge controller is probably needed anyway if you don't want to damage your cells due to overcharging when you are not monitoring battery charge status, most good ones are 'switched mode' and will take care of higher input voltages automatically. That's because solar panels that are nominally rated 12 V output anything between 0 and 18 V when they are not connected, after all the sun doesn't always shine equally bright. They will also taper off the current as the battery reaches full charge.
solar panels have an ingternal resistance far higher than the batteries so all you'd really need is a way to limit the current to whatever the panel can provide without being damaged. Because the battery has an internal resistance much lower than
the solar panel the battery will drag the solar panel down to it's own level, which most decent panels will be able to cope with. If there is an 'Imax' rating on the panels that's the one to set your current limiter to, possibly with a bit of a safety margin. You will have to keep a sharp eye on the batteries charge state when you do this, as soon as the batteries are full you should disconnect the panel.
If the panel is really small then you'd just be trickle charging it against the
self-discharge of the battery, and no regulator will be needed. This situation can come in handy if you have an old 6V car or tractor that you don't use very often. It would take forever to actually charge a battery with a panel like that when it is really empty though.