Author Topic: Cell repair  (Read 2734 times)

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tecker

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Cell repair
« on: November 20, 2004, 02:06:46 AM »
  I can say now that I think the conductive pen is going to work to patch together broken traces . In my photos I put some other shots of the process .Nothing to tricky

just retracing anode and cathode traces to reestablish the  area .here's one of the cells broken in three pieces . One of the things I think is going to be doable is to make a pulser with a camera flash here's a one use flash I'm playing with now.







« Last Edit: November 20, 2004, 02:06:46 AM by (unknown) »

iFred

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Re: Cell repair
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2004, 10:30:20 AM »


Hi Tecker. I have been thinking of a way of doing that to, but not their yet. Where did you purchase the pen from and what is it called?


Also, have you found a simple way to remove a small patch of the conductive adhesive gray paint in the back of the cell for connection? The adhesive gray paint is very heat conductive, very cool stuff. You can heat the back of the cell with an iron and it does not effect it, but the cell gets nice and hot. (just testing ideas)


Let me know how it goes.. Email me if you can... Thanks!

Fred.


P.S. WD-40 is excelent for protecting the cells it appears. No moisture problems yet detected. I have made 12 complete sealed glass units so far, still going at it...

« Last Edit: November 20, 2004, 10:30:20 AM by iFred »

tecker

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Re: Cell repair
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2004, 01:18:23 PM »


   I 'd have to say mek or remover I've got some mek I 'll try it . As for the trace pens Most electronics shops or on line electronics outlets and I saw it at radio shack also. ( and for a$2 less than on line no brainier there . I riped apart the panels I had built and am going to a smothon product 1508 (a urethane with aluminum) to bond the cells to the glass back plate .and then a covering of clear plastic to hold them in place(another smoothon product that is water clear and heat cured (230 f ) and some aluminum 1/2 x !/4 in between the rows still opting for 9 volt panels .got a tracking frame I 'm working on .snagged some aluminum store displays I and there's enough to go around . The silvering on the back of the cell is very conductive

« Last Edit: November 20, 2004, 01:18:23 PM by tecker »

iFred

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Re: Cell repair
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2004, 03:39:53 PM »


I found some conductive pens on an electronics site in BC canada. RP electronics- $23. I'll test one. They also have the 1/16 inch copper ribbon, comes in 6' roll. Covering with clear platic?? hummm.. let me know how this goes.. THe cells are very weak, I was even thinking of a lamination or sticky tape or even maybe clear tape. I think the biggest problem here is heat again, the heat will over time rinkel or rip apart gradually over time, so I wonder how good that would be. Maybe a clear plastic dip. Put tape on back side, dip and let dry, remove tape.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2004, 03:39:53 PM by iFred »

Aelric

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Re: Cell repair
« Reply #4 on: November 20, 2004, 07:35:03 PM »
I remembered seeing something about plastic resin, never used the stuff but I've heard its kinda fun to play with


http://www.eagerplastics.com/4101howto.htm


http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=75


just a couple of links for clear plastic resins.

« Last Edit: November 20, 2004, 07:35:03 PM by Aelric »

iFred

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Re: Cell repair
« Reply #5 on: November 20, 2004, 09:02:36 PM »


In a prior post by jacquesm, he stated....

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solder copper to aluminum with standard irons and solder :)


  1. place aluminum to be soldered in a bath of mineral oil
  2. sand aluminum while immersed in oil along the surface to be soldered to remove the oxide layer present (re-oxidization which would normally happen in seconds will now not happen as long as you are immersed)
  3. Solder copper wire to aluminum while maintaining immersion. Don't use a torch or you will set the oil on fire ! Just a regular (but plenty hot) iron will do
  4. Remove soldered piece from oil, rinse and dry.


It's an old trick, and it really works, even if the joints aren't perfect they are good enough for most purposes. The problem with soldering aluminum is not so much in the metal its self as it is in the oxide layer on top.  

-------------------------------------------------


Now since the back of the solar cells are a composite aluminum glass, I was trying as many of you where to solder to it. I tryied everything.. nothing worked proper, then I remembered that post and figured I would try it, guess what! I works!!


However there is a catch...


It does make a connection and does bond, but not deep...It is diffecult to do and sometimes will come off. The trick is the right temprature, rubbing the soldering iron slowly in a circle or across the surface untill it catchs. (basically sanding/soldering in oil) once it does and you play with it a little it's not to bad. It will completly adhear and cannot be removed.


That basically solves soldering the back part of wireing the cell at any point on the cell. The stuff is aluminum. It is neat how they came up with a flux/material pad to solder to and adhears to the back of the cell. very neat..

« Last Edit: November 20, 2004, 09:02:36 PM by iFred »

baggo

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Re: Cell repair
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2004, 06:33:41 AM »
Hi Tecker, Fred


Have you looked at the Carrs range of solders which are normally used for building models from etched brass and whitemetal? They do a selection with a range of melting points all the way down to 70 degrees C. The lowest would probably melt with the heat from the cells but the others may be worth a try. They also do one specifically for soldering aluminium to other metals.


John

« Last Edit: November 21, 2004, 06:33:41 AM by baggo »