Author Topic: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?  (Read 1372 times)

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picmacmillan

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how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« on: December 21, 2004, 08:36:52 PM »
Hi everyone......i will be receiving 5 pounds of the e-bay solar cells any day now and wondered if anyone might have some ideas on putting them together.....some do's and dont's ...i had read about peoples concerns with condensation....i was wondering about that....i would be concerned with spraying them with say wd40 or something as i know that stuff has some water in it.....if you use it on your guns to oil them, they will rust....anyhow, just was hoping to be able to see some pic's or read some of your posts about the subject....take care...pickster.. :)
« Last Edit: December 21, 2004, 08:36:52 PM by (unknown) »

sandovalch

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Re: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2004, 02:10:39 PM »
I am already buying my 3rd 5 pound box and I am finishing my second box. So far, I could build 5 panels each with 36 cells from each box.

Every panel produces about 18.5V at 3A tops. Now I have 8 panels installed and producing about 21A at 2 o'clock.

I have soldered 4 strings each with 9 cells and put them on a playwood back, each cell has been fixed with 2 silicon dots. Then I encased the whole thing in an aluminum frame with 3mm thick glass. I used standard glass, so expect the glass to reduce your Amps to about 2.75

I have a bit of a problem with condensation at night and have to figure out how to reduce it.

Soon I will post some pictures of my panels.

If you have a lot of time on your hands for soldering and some skills in aluminum framing, I think you'll have a lot of fun and perhaps also a lot of energy.

« Last Edit: December 21, 2004, 02:10:39 PM by sandovalch »

Tom in NH

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Re: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2004, 08:04:08 PM »
They are extremely fragile. You will cull out the ones that are broken, those with cracks, and those with loose or misaligned tabs. You will still end up with a good number of useable cells -- about 66% assuming no shipping damage. The ones with misaligned tabs can be repaired by resoldering.


When you build a panel, consider using a jig to hold the cells in place. It has worked well for me to put them in the jig upside down. Make sure you allow a good space between the cells so they don't touch each other when they warm up in the sun.You will likely want a 35 or 40 watt soldering iron, something nice and light weight. After soldering them together, put a spot or two of silicone caulk on each cell. Put some 3/4 inch wood spacers in the corners to rest your plywood backing on. Once everything is positioned, carefully remove the spacers and let the plywood's weight press itself into the silicone. After a couple minutes you can lift the whole assembly and turn it over. I use a 1/4 inch thick layer of foam tape around the perimeter (3 sides) and across the middle of the panel to support the plexiglas covering. The plexiglas is screwed down to the plywood using screws with rubber washers, the same kind as that used with metal roofing. I seal three sides with all-weather vinyl tape before screwing. The fourth side is has the foam tape where the screws go, but the rest is left open for ventilation. The back side of the plywood has 1x1x1/16 aluminum angle stock bolted to it to stiffen the plywood. Here's a picture of some of my panels. Each has 72 cells -- two sets of 9x4 wired in parallel.





They haven't stood the test of time yet, but they went together nicely and I'm not expecting any problems. If I do have a problem, the panels are easy enough to take apart. That's something that can be problematic if you elect to seal you panels from moisture.


--Tom

« Last Edit: December 21, 2004, 08:04:08 PM by Tom in NH »

Snoprob

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Re: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« Reply #3 on: December 21, 2004, 10:11:55 PM »
I've decided to drive to Boston after my Holiday visit back home. After writing them I now have instructions from Byron on what to expect and prices, etc. I sincerly hope a better price, but his first suggestion was to bring wads of cash so the price thing may not happen. I expect to leave $1000USD in Boston, five 5lb lots : )
« Last Edit: December 21, 2004, 10:11:55 PM by Snoprob »

ghurd

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Re: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2004, 07:36:35 AM »
Has anyone considered some kind of circuit sealing spray?


I have used V-1 and V-2 (Spray-On brand by Sherman-Williams)for sealing circuits. One of them is clearer than the other.

I think both are water-proof, 1 is non-yellowing.


Someone who knows more about this kind of stuff than me would maybe know the light transmission characteristics.


Or maybe someone would sacrifice a few cells to the sprays to see how the outputs are effected.


If it works OK, the stuff would help with some of the concerns about condensation.


G-

« Last Edit: December 22, 2004, 07:36:35 AM by ghurd »
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tcrenshaw

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Re: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2004, 07:39:42 AM »

From my experience with these cells you need to heed the warning of "fragile!". Once you get the hang of how to handle them they work very well. In fact it wouldn't be a bad idea when unpacking if you find several (and you will) that are pretty broken up, play with them and see how easy it is to break them.



My first panel is below. It was a great success for about an hour. I was looking for the absolute cheapest route for glass. I ended up picking up a 60"x18" 1/8th" thick mirror, cutting it down and stripping the silver off the back. As mentioned, it worked great for about an hour. The heat from the sun and because the cells are so dark they absorb a lot of heat, it all added up to cracked glass. I was outside working while the panel was in the direct sun doing its thing and I hear "CRACK". I go look, a nice crack from the bottom almost all the way to the top. About 10 minutes later another - "CRACK". Okay, not a good idea to not use tempered glass. I have since ordered 1/4" tempered clear glass for about $44.00 a sheet for the size I need.





The other issue you'll run into with the cells is that until you get the technique down, they are somewhat difficult to solder to and the leads on many will be either partly disconnected or completely disconnected from the cell. I ran across an article on the net that kind of explained how to solder to these cells. On the back of the cell there are six spots to solder to. I simply load up the tip of my little 35watt soldering iron with solder and then drag the solder across the back of the spots one at a time. This seems to make a secure place for the leads from the other cell that I'll attach.



On the front of the cell is where the two leads are. To get them to stay put I use a razor blade to very lightly scratch the light tan material where the lead is supposed to be. You'll see silver under this material, that's enough scratching and you don't have to get all of the light tan material off, just enough to see the silver under it. I'm talking a hair line scratch will do just fine. Tin the lead with solder, let it cool and then lay it on the line on the cell where it's to be attached. Run your iron fairly quickly down the top of the lead, try not to hit the cell. It'll now stay in place. This works with leads that are completely off the cell and those that are only partly connected. I was able to salvage a good 30 or more cells that I would have not been able to use by doing this. The first picture below is of how the article said to do this which was to place the solder on the cell itself. I found that even with a low wattage iron that the heat was discoloring the cell. It didn't seem to affect the output but looks sloppy and actually was harder to get the lead to stay where I wanted it.



With this one I used the modified technique of scratching the cell and then tinning the lead, then putting the lead on the cell and running the iron down the lead fairly quickly. This of course looks much better and I had almost no discoloration of the cell. Output was exactly the same as un-damaged cells.








Out of my first box I should get six good panels. I already have my second box but haven't opened it yet. One of the other guys here suggested in a few message back about using a jig to keep all the cells in line - highly recommend his suggestion. Without the jig I pulled apart about four cells because I could see the cells were getting out of alignment. My panel is 2x18 cells. Can you imagine trying to keep 18 cells in a perfect line without a jig!



My panel puts out about 19volts and is a 40 watt panel. The two Arco M51 panels that I purchased off of eBay were around $110.00 each and though they work, they are in poor condition. The glass is shattered and they are beat up pretty bad. I also go lucky on the price. I haven't seen any go for that cheap in a while. This first panel with the new glass is going to cost around $88.00 when done. Now that I have made one, and I know what material I'll need for my second and so on, the price should fall to around $65.00~$70.00 a panel. That's only $1.75 per watt. Not to bad and I might even find some short cuts and be able to cut the price even more.



Good luck and enjoy.

« Last Edit: December 22, 2004, 07:39:42 AM by tcrenshaw »

tawa

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Re: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2004, 11:05:52 AM »
Hmm. In Michigan in the winter, solar cells don't work too good, but I might try solar cells in the summer to power a fan.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2004, 11:05:52 AM by tawa »

tecker

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Re: how has everyones e-bay cells worked out?
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2004, 03:56:47 PM »


  I'm still testing to see the best configuration for these . I'm shure they perform better with the ribbon soldered on both ends and a bit of glue to keep it from lifting during construction . I 've tried several materials to sink the heat . I 'm useing silica gel in my test jig and it seems effective after a heat seal is established . I

think under ground rod sugjested that .I 'm checking to see if it's going to melt don't know what the temp range is .
« Last Edit: December 22, 2004, 03:56:47 PM by tecker »