Author Topic: Soldering of Cells  (Read 3067 times)

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paulrogers6

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Soldering of Cells
« on: May 11, 2009, 12:50:58 PM »
Dear All


I've been given a few 3" x 6" (untabbed) cells that I'd like to experiment with .  My question is how to solder them together?


I see the two tracks  on the back (with the solder blobs) that I believe, from reading posts here, are the +ve tracks and I also believe the two "painted" tracks on the front are the -ve tracks.  In order to wire the cells in series I need to wire the positive tracks to the negative.  I can't however figure out what to affix the tabs to at the front of the cells.  Does one just solder directly to the painted tracks?


If so any tips?


Finally why does each cell have two sets of tracks back and front?  What would happen if you only wired up one +ve and -ve track?  would you only get half the voltage?


Thanks


Paul

« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 12:50:58 PM by (unknown) »

wooferhound

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2009, 07:55:48 AM »
I would test it with a voltmeter and see how the power comes out of it ?

« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 07:55:48 AM by wooferhound »

paulrogers6

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2009, 10:02:51 AM »
Hi Woof


Thanks for that - what I really meant is how/where do I physically solder to the front of the cells.  The front only seems to have what appears to be a painted track on it and looking at it it doesn't seem that it should be possible to solder anything to it. So, is it possible to solder to it or is there some other method?


Thanks


Paul

« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 10:02:51 AM by paulrogers6 »

betwixt

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2009, 03:44:23 PM »
I've found the best way to connect to cells is to use silver conductive paint.

Clean the area to be connected, use flexible multi-strand cable, splay the strands over the connection area to increase surface contact then with the wire temporarily held in place with sticky tape, paint over the splayed wires to bond them down. Use plenty of good quality conductive paint, preferably one with >30% silver content. Leave it at least 24 hours to fully 'dry', the paint resistance drops as the solvent evaporates and the silver particles compact together. Finally, coat the joint with epoxy resin to give it mechanical strength.


Beware of some of the cheap conductive pain advertised on E**y, one I tried was guaranteed to be at least 3% silver and was useless. When settled in its bottle, the silver barely covered the bottom. The good stuff never settles! I got mine from Farnell.


Brian.

« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 03:44:23 PM by betwixt »

betwixt

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #4 on: May 11, 2009, 03:46:50 PM »
Sorry about the spelling mistake - it should have been "paint" not "pain" !

Appropriate though!!

Brian.
« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 03:46:50 PM by betwixt »

pepa

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2009, 04:31:18 PM »
hi paul, the cells i had came with a tinned tape over the front lines. you can buy and install these tabs yourself. it would be easier to buy the tinned tabs and install it with the tape cut a little over twice the wideth of the cell so that the tab will be long emough to solder under the next cell in line and they will be ready to string in any way uou like. use a clean, hot soldering iron and keep the iron moving to keep the cell from getting to hot. the two lines are there to make sure you get at least one good contact point, eather line will carry the current unless the cell gets cracked or damaged. pepa
« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 04:31:18 PM by pepa »

nick1234

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2009, 10:39:22 PM »
what you need is brass strip about 1/8 wide x 24>28 gauge thick  tin the strip with radio solder 50/50 rosin core with 25>35 watt iron

Heat (tinned) brass top side  cell track bottom brass strip middle iron top gust a bit of heat to make solder flow  that's it

practice soldering 2 (tinned) strips before  a drop of solder on you iron helps  

hope the info helps

nick
« Last Edit: May 11, 2009, 10:39:22 PM by nick1234 »

taralec

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2009, 04:22:49 AM »
Hi Paul

These cells will give 3.6 amps in bright sunshine-solder the front of one to the rear of the next cell in the chain-tabbing wire is best otherwise silver plated wire-solder your fronts up first with wire/tab twice as long as you need-do all your fronts then carefully flip over the cells and start soldering the backs.do solder both rails for redundancy-resistance is everything on solar cell performance-practice on something else first-good luck
« Last Edit: May 12, 2009, 04:22:49 AM by taralec »

pmurf1

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2009, 10:56:47 AM »
I've built a few panels, the first two were with 4x4 untabbed cells, the latest was with 3x6 pretabbed ones. After you tab 70 cells, you'll realize why the pretabbed are worth the extra money. The easiest way I found to tab them was to gently scrape the little line on the front of the cell that is the negative with a razor blade. I ran a flux pen down it after that and applied a thin line of radio crack 2% silver solder on the tab. I found it flows betterbthan the stuff on eBay and it's only about $5.50? and easy to get. It comes on a small roll of about 1.5 ounces if I remember right. After you have a little bit stuck to the cell, cut your tabbing wire and put a drop on your gun tip and run it along the tabbing wire thus tinning it. Put the tabbing wire over the strip on the cell and melt the two together.

 That's how I do mine, I tried doing them with a 30 watt gun? But couldn't get good results so I use my 150 watt one and work quick.
« Last Edit: May 12, 2009, 10:56:47 AM by pmurf1 »

BigHappy

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2009, 09:14:48 PM »
Paul, here is some information from one of the eBay sellers that kind of wraps up a lot of the basic information for you.  I have about 1800-2000 of the same types of cells that you have.  Those 3x6's sound like evergreen.  The tips that the other folks gave you is good stuff.  There are some ebay sellers that also provide 1 hour videos on DVD showing you how to put together the cells.  However, do a search on Youtube.com and you'll get a lot of interesting hits.


Good luck!


*******


The standard cell specifications are the following, though the individual cells can be above or below these standards.


Cell Specifications:  

Average Power (Watts):  1.50 Wp (We lower the wattage power just as a precaution, in reality many of them are going to be higher than 1.5 watts. We like to underpromise)

Average Current (Amps):  3.0 Imax

Average Voltage (Volts): 0.5 Vmax

Thickness  200 μm = 0.2 mm  

Exact dimension: 3  1/4 inches x 6 inches, or 80 mm by 150 mm

Weight:  Just above 6 grams, or 0.2 oz.


Some useful information in making solar power:

How to make sense of the above numbers:


The basic and very important formula you need to know to make sense of solar cells is this:

Power (P) = Current (I) Multiply by Voltage (V), or P=I*V

Power's unit of measure is watt,

Current's unit of measure is amp,

Voltage's unit of measure is volt.


So in our solar cell's specific example, if each solar cell is rated at 1.75 watts on average, and the voltage is 0.5, you do a little algebraic math, then to get the amps (I), since P=I*V, so I = P / V , therefore I (amps) = 1.75 watts divided by 0.5 volts = 3.5 amps.


It's important to understand the concepts of series connection and parallel connection when stringing these solar cells together to make a solar panel. Series connection of the cells increases voltage but not amperage; parallel connection of the cells increases amperage but not voltage. Series connection is when you connect the positive terminal of a cell with the negative terminal of the next cell. Parallel connection is when you connect the positive terminals of all cells in the set of cells with a tabbing wire and all the negative terminals of all cell in the same set. You can use a combination of series and parallel connections to get the right voltage and amperage for your solar panel.


The cell specifications above were given to us by the manufacturer as averages. Variations are possible. To make a 18 volts panel, for example, you connect 36 cells in series (36 cells times 0.5 volt each = 18 volts). And 36 * 1.75 (each cell in theory averages 1.75 watt) watt = 63 watts. The amps you will be getting is 63 watts divided by 18 volts = 3.5 amps.


Solar cells basics:


The front of the cells (blue side, aka Sunny side) has two thick white lines, called bus bars. They are the negative terminals of the cell. The back side, where the 6 square dots are, are positive terminals. Connect the tabbing wires from the bus bar of the first cell on one side to the three dots of on the back side of the next cell. That way you have a series connection. Repeat the process on the other side of the cells. In panel making you should connect all the tabbing wires on the front for all the cells first, then flip the cells over to solder the back side in a second step. Some solar cells such as SunPower cells have both positive and negative terminals at the back of the cells, but we don't have to worry about them. Most cells are negative on the front and positive on the back.

The white color bus bars on front and the contact points on the back are made out of silver, and you should keep them intact. Apply solder on your them and the wires should bond.


Testing:


Make sure that you test the cells under strong sun light with the front of the cell facing the sun, at the same time connect your meters to the right terminals. If you are inside the building, make sure you shine your sun simulating lamps onto the front of the cell while testing.


Panel configuration:

For those who are new to solar panel making or if you don't have an engineering background, here is our recommendation:



  1. Make small panels first so you gain experience.
  2. In most situations, make either 36 or 72 cell panels, and connect them in series. 36 cells give you 17.5 or around 18 volts or so. And 72 cells doubles that. These panels are very useful, and you will find a lot of matching products that will want to buy! For example, you almost always want to use a charge controller if you make your panels to charge batteries. Charge controllers usually come in 12 or 24 volt settings, which match your panels' 18 and 36 volts very nicely. Yes, your panel voltage should be 1.5 times the voltage of the battery you intend to charge. Connect more panels together if you want to tie to the grid, in which case, always use an inverter.
  3. For a lot higher voltage panels and configurations, consult a professional. Just don't fry yourself.


Soldering:


If you want to become a serious panel maker, buy a good soldering iron whose temperature can be adjusted. Don't get a cheap iron. It's one of the most important tools you need to have. Get those that have a flat soldering tip / head.

« Last Edit: May 12, 2009, 09:14:48 PM by BigHappy »

paulrogers6

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Re: Soldering of Cells
« Reply #10 on: May 13, 2009, 09:46:21 AM »
Hi guys


Many thanks for taking time out to post all the answers.


Initially I couldn't believe that the two tracks on the front of the cells could be soldered to so assumed I must be missing something somewhere!!  Now I know that it's ok I can proceed to try soldering some of them.


I notice quite a few posts on here saying that the different thermal expansion between the tab wire and the cells can cause a problem.  Does this occur even after soldering (eg during use as the cells warm up and cool down)?


Also what do people think of betwixt idea for using a conductive(silver) paint and epoxy to "solder" the joints?  This sounds like it'd overcome a lot of the problems with overheating of the cells during soldering. Any thoughts/experience on/of same?


Thanks


Paul

« Last Edit: May 13, 2009, 09:46:21 AM by paulrogers6 »