AC induction Convert guys-wiring of coils

[Reno]

I have an Ac induction conv originally I was running

start coil in series

1. st run coil in series/parallel
   
2. nd run coil in series/parallel
   
   

each set has its own rectifier

I know your going to ask about the third coil it is single phase motor came out of a commercial paint mix rack.

back to the discussion

the above setup worked good but being my experiment I did.

I took it back down and wired all coils series/parallel.

Now I wire each rectifier to batteries in high winds and I series the rectifiers in low winds which easily reaches charging voltage.

I believe that this is a good setup except that the parallel to batteries setup needs a good steady wind. I am in the process of making bigger blades. So I was wondering if anyone had anything to add. I was thinking perhaps the parallel setup my be causing excess resistance in the motor I will know once the new blades are up.

[Ungrounded Lightning Rod]

The start winding is 90 degrees out of phase with the run windings.  You're not getting all you could out of your series setup.

You could improve the cutin speed significantly by hanging a big capacitor across the start winding (after the bridge rectification) in the series hookup.  (It shuldn't hurt to leave it there the rest of the time, either.)

Be sure to fuse it.

[Reno]

I have 4 30V 60,000MF caps between the bats and rect.

In light winds I am putting some amps into the bats when the rectifiers are in series. My concern is with the series/parallel connection at the stator. I don't think the problem is with the wiring rather with the blades. I could be wrong and thought someone may have some input.

[Ungrounded Lightning Rod]

I have 4 30V 60,000MF caps between the bats and rect.  In light winds I am putting some amps into the bats when the rectifiers are in series.

Sounds like you have them across the whole series stack.

Put two of them across the output of the bridge rectifier on your start coils, the other two across the output of the bridge rectifer(s) from your run coils, and see if you get a lower cutin speed, or more current at a given low speed.

My concern is with the series/parallel connection at the stator. I don't think the problem is with the wiring rather with the blades. I could be wrong and thought someone may have some input.

Is the problem that when you switch to the parallel configuration it has too much load and the prop is dragged down to where it's not charging well?

Seems to me if you're getting decent charging in low winds you shouldn't need a bigger prop to keep up with that in medium winds.

Try this:

Slow winds:  All in series.

Medium winds:  First run winding (with rectifier) from ground to tiepoint.  Second run winding (with rectifier) from tiepoint to battery.  Start winding (with rectifier) from tiepoint to battery.

Fast winds:  All three in parallel

[Reno]

Thanks for the reply.

Can you explain what the two seperate stacks of caps will do that a single stack won't, forgive me I like to understand rather than just do (give a man a fish......you know)

As for the charging in light winds with the rectifiers in series I get 1 amp easily

not much but for the amount of wind better than nothing.

When I charge in parallel I have seen my meter go off scale 10 amps but it doesn't last long. One other thing the batery voltage never exceeds 13 volts before I rewired at the stator in high winds I would see the voltage at time go over 20 volts(very strong gusts).

If i disconnect from the batteries I can reach voltages that exceed my Cap rating (just before it gets there I attach a load) so this is why I think it is the blades.

[tecker]

     The caps will charge really fast they don't do much until you get to around 2 to 3 farad . The battery bank will give you the same smoothing and wave shaping . The 13 volts under load is just adequate for charging . Should be 14 ( but this translates to Amps in)The best use for a low amp charge with a 20 volt possibility is to use your caps to set up a pulse Charger this will allow your Gen set to run unimpeded and you can count on A regular pulse coming in and set up you gen set for the highest voltage you can achieve .The limitations of that system you can forget about and let it run. Then work on a Gen set with larger wire for Higher amperage.

  There were several pulse chargers discussed in the forum a  few months ago .I lean to the Bedini circuit  that I modified to use power hexfets  . You can also purchase one form wallmart and cut in to the ac side and add your generator output .

  In the long run the You can't get amperage from the  awg 21 or 20  wire thet comprise the windings of your induction motor you have to rewind for amperage  .

[Ungrounded Lightning Rod]

Different phases are producing peak voltages at different parts of the cycle.

When you stack the different phases without caps, your peak voltage is the peak of the sum of the voltages from the phases hooked in series.

When you put a capacitor across each phase, it gets charged to that phase's peak.  Then the output (the battery) sees the sum of the peaks, not the peak of the sum.

[dandober]

Hello;

after reading a bit on the coil/low speed alternator I considered doing the diode on every coil angle. But I dsimissed it as most diodes have a 0.7volt derop..all those diodes might eat into eff?? maybe not? I think having properly phased coils is the trick?? With proper phasing you should be able to get peak voltage out.

dan